It started innocently enough… Michael, a young gentleman who worked diligently for my landlord and kept the courtyard and environs incredibly neat, told me about his dream to go back to secondary school to finish his education. He’d dropped out of school when he was twelve to support his mother and siblings. He speaks little English and can barely read… let alone write, in any language. But, he’s bright, quick with a smile and always very friendly and accommodating.
Michael’s situation is a very common phenomenon here and according to a recent UNICEF and Ministry of Education, Youth and Sport report titled, “The Out-of-School Report” up to 40% of primary school-aged children do not attend school, despite the government’s commitment or lack thereof to the International Convention on the Rights of the Child. In Sierra Leone, “Article 28 of that Convention (Right to education): All children have the right to a primary education, which should be free,” is a complete misnomer. It’s one thing to have the right to free education but it’s another to see it in action or make it happen.
The Report forcefully illustrates the point that poverty is the major reason for children being out of school… among the many other reasons including early marriage, child-pregnancies, bullying and harassment from peers and teachers, disabilities, sexual abuse, peer pressure, cultural tradition, and so on. So, the streets in Freetown are often flooded with young children selling bags of water (straight from an untreated water supply), household goods including soaps and medications, charcoal, etc. And, their futures are reflected in the faces of the young men who hang about street corners trying to eek out a living selling fish heads, discarded tee-shirts or mismatched shoes.
But, a small revolution is at hand and I’m proud to be a supporter…
One day, as I sat in the courtyard reading, Michael approached and sat down beside me. We exchanged pleasantries and he eventually asked me what I was reading. I replied it was a book about the beautiful, bountiful science that surrounds us. (see the reference at the end of this post) He said he was interested in science, biology and chemistry… and asked if I could find him a book on science so he could study and prepare for some sort of secondary school exam.
Initially, I must admit, I was taken aback. One of the things I’m trying to avoid is “helping out” the hundreds of people who’ve asked me for money. It’s another fact of life here in Freetown – people see the colour of my skin and immediately assume I have buckets of money and that I’m freely distributing “western aid” on every corner. So, Michael’s request didn’t surprise me but it was the first indication from him that he’d like my help. And, it wasn’t money he wanted… but a book! To study! To further his education! I couldn’t say “no, next time…” or my new favourite “polite push-off”, “I’ll pray for you.” (when people ask what religion I am I say “I’m an atheist” and they seem happy to hear… little do they know)
I came face-to-face with my conviction to help in a sustainable way and to avoid contributing to the “aid mentality” that’s so prevalent in this country. However, a book… a lasting, sustainable and helpful instrument… that, I could justify.
So, the following day I wandered down Garrison St. near the Victoria Park market, amidst the dozens of street hawkers and managed to find a photocopied version of a biology textbook, written in 1980 – edition four – for Le40,000 or about $12.00. (the initial price quoted was Le150,000) I scooped it up and delivered it to Michael later that night. My gawd, you’d have thought I conjured a rain of coins… He was thrilled. And, for the next several weeks I watched his page-progress through the textbook.
A week or so later, Yousef, one of the young security guys, told me he was very interested in economics and business. I’d noticed Yousef reading over Michael’s shoulder on several occasions and felt his interest was genuine. So, when Yousef asked if I could find him a book on business, I quickly accepted the challenge. Books are a rarity here… and with a 75% illiteracy rate it’s easy to see that the market for books and reading is very small – despite the number of daily newspapers.
However, I managed to track down a very well-used, secondary school workbook on business and economics. And, Yousef was thrilled. He’s since read through that one and he’s now into a math book – probably a grade ten level – that he’s devouring. This second book was a real challenge… I was aided by a primary school teacher and neighbour, MarVel, who took me to a shack outside her school. And, because I was MarVel’s friend, the shop-owner sold me the book for Le20,000 or just about $7.00.
There’s another young man, Moses, an Okada driver who’s frequently shuffled me about on the back of his motorbike and who is very interested in football/soccer. “Moses the motorcycle man” went to school till he was about eight and has been working at a variety of “jobs” since then – almost 12 years. He regularly regales me with football stories as we zip among the traffic of Freetown. (Sometimes I have to tell him to stop waving his left hand about and hold onto the handlebars… but he’s very passionate about football.)
I was given a copy of a new book by a Sierra Leoneon footballer named Mohamed Kallon who plays in the European league and is a legend among young Sierra Leoneons. It was a promo-copy and terribly written… but it was local and just perfect for someone who had very few reading skills. (it’s written at about a grade four reading level) When I handed the book over to Moses – the first and only new book he’s ever owned – he beamed.
I guess the revolution is spreading… and yesterday another neighbourhood child asked me (Uncle Stephen because of my “silver and gold hair” and advanced age) if I could find her a book about science fiction – “space and other worlds”, in her words. She said she was in “form three” which is roughly grade eleven… That’ll be my mission, among others, this week. I think I recall seeing a photocopied version of an Asimov novel among the street hawkers near the market…
It may be a small, peaceful revolution but at least it’s a start… and who knows – maybe one day, one of these readers will evolve into the next Gordimer or Asimov or Einstein or Gates. And, like most revolutions, the initial supporters often don’t get to see the end results… but it’s the seeds of revolution that can spark eventual change.
Today I’m hopeful…
Stephen
Monday, August 31, 2009
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Sierra Leone hits Los Angeles…
We’re famous in Sierra Leone… and proof enough is this excerpt from an L.A. Times article. For the full story – and pictures – click on this site.
Check out the article at http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-resort25-2009aug25,0,4391065.story
Excerpted from the L.A. Times… August 25, 2009 written by Scott Kraft
“On a recent weekend, several dozen visitors parked their SUVs in the packed-sand lot and strolled through tropical stands of palm trees to the beach. Young village workers, some barefoot and others in sandals, took food and drink orders from bathers relaxing on the beach. In the restaurant's open-air kitchen, Bendu and his crew chopped tomatoes, onions and garlic for the fish marinade and placed skewers of barracuda and shrimp on the grill. A large pot of freshly cut potatoes bubbled in oil over a wood fire. The restaurant serves whatever the fishermen catch -- for less than $10 a plate, including fries or rice.”
“Among the day-trippers that Sunday was the U.N. secretary-general's special representative and his son, a Canadian journalist teaching in Sierra Leone, Dutch relief workers and half a dozen seminary students from Nigeria, Guinea, Indonesia and Ghana.”
I’m the “Canadian journalist teaching in Sierra Leone” and I spent the afternoon with Scott and the photographer, Liz, at the beach… my usual place of Sunday worship. (although, I have to admit, the heavy rains have dampened my worship ceremonies)
Later that week, I had dinner with Scott and Liz at the Country Lodge hotel, (I’ve written about that place before) where they were staying in grand luxury, and shared an evening of journalistic triumphs and trials here in Sierra Leone.
I should also mention that I had another dinner at “the Lodge” with a delegation from War Child International who were here working on some humanitarian project. Among the group was a Canadian photographer and a “rising or emerging” pop singer named Sy-ria (or something like that) who grew up here but is now living and working in Vancouver. Ah… a taste of “home conversation” about hockey, Stephen Harper, the Canadian media environment, etc.
The “foreigners” continue to flit through Freetown and for some reason I tend to meet up to share stories and nibble on news from the rest of the world. Last Saturday, I was part of a delegation that included a Danish woman from the labour movement… and the Sierra Leone Labour Congress. We were addressing the photographic union here and discussing training curriculum and pilot projects.
I’m also doing some ongoing training for the journalists at UN Radio through my friend, Sputnik. She’s the “chief” of that UN department and while traipsing through the UN building I met another Canadian, Reg, who’s in charge of UN staff security for Sierra Leone. Yes, it always helps to know people who know people who can keep us safe.
These relatively few interactions with “foreigners” often sustain and replenish my need for outside contact… and it’s fabulous to share stories and viewpoints on Sierra Leone, West Africa, and the rest of the world. It helps me feel more connected and less isolated.
Awaiting visitors,
Stephen
Check out the article at http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-resort25-2009aug25,0,4391065.story
Excerpted from the L.A. Times… August 25, 2009 written by Scott Kraft
“On a recent weekend, several dozen visitors parked their SUVs in the packed-sand lot and strolled through tropical stands of palm trees to the beach. Young village workers, some barefoot and others in sandals, took food and drink orders from bathers relaxing on the beach. In the restaurant's open-air kitchen, Bendu and his crew chopped tomatoes, onions and garlic for the fish marinade and placed skewers of barracuda and shrimp on the grill. A large pot of freshly cut potatoes bubbled in oil over a wood fire. The restaurant serves whatever the fishermen catch -- for less than $10 a plate, including fries or rice.”
“Among the day-trippers that Sunday was the U.N. secretary-general's special representative and his son, a Canadian journalist teaching in Sierra Leone, Dutch relief workers and half a dozen seminary students from Nigeria, Guinea, Indonesia and Ghana.”
I’m the “Canadian journalist teaching in Sierra Leone” and I spent the afternoon with Scott and the photographer, Liz, at the beach… my usual place of Sunday worship. (although, I have to admit, the heavy rains have dampened my worship ceremonies)
Later that week, I had dinner with Scott and Liz at the Country Lodge hotel, (I’ve written about that place before) where they were staying in grand luxury, and shared an evening of journalistic triumphs and trials here in Sierra Leone.
I should also mention that I had another dinner at “the Lodge” with a delegation from War Child International who were here working on some humanitarian project. Among the group was a Canadian photographer and a “rising or emerging” pop singer named Sy-ria (or something like that) who grew up here but is now living and working in Vancouver. Ah… a taste of “home conversation” about hockey, Stephen Harper, the Canadian media environment, etc.
The “foreigners” continue to flit through Freetown and for some reason I tend to meet up to share stories and nibble on news from the rest of the world. Last Saturday, I was part of a delegation that included a Danish woman from the labour movement… and the Sierra Leone Labour Congress. We were addressing the photographic union here and discussing training curriculum and pilot projects.
I’m also doing some ongoing training for the journalists at UN Radio through my friend, Sputnik. She’s the “chief” of that UN department and while traipsing through the UN building I met another Canadian, Reg, who’s in charge of UN staff security for Sierra Leone. Yes, it always helps to know people who know people who can keep us safe.
These relatively few interactions with “foreigners” often sustain and replenish my need for outside contact… and it’s fabulous to share stories and viewpoints on Sierra Leone, West Africa, and the rest of the world. It helps me feel more connected and less isolated.
Awaiting visitors,
Stephen
Friday, August 28, 2009
The power of words…
We are all aware of the power of the pen – or in many cases the potency of the pixel. Words have the power to enlighten, no question, but they can also be used to confuse… used for good and for evil. I’m not talking about a language barrier – this time. I’m talking about jargon… it’s rampant and annoying and confusing.
And, all you have to do is randomly list these “jargon-y” words… and somehow donors give, NGOs salivate, politicians are elected and the “development community” grows. I sometimes feel like I should create a document listing all these jargon words with instructions to order them any way you see fit…
For example… “Please use these words, in any order, when considering our development organization for funding… capacity building, stakeholders, facilitating civil society, NGOs, INGOs, organizational, structural development, training, engagement methodology, implement, consortium, humanitarian initiatives, strategic objectives, engaging project affected peoples, opening dialogue…” Well, you get the picture. None of this makes any sense but look at what “makes sense” to those involved here.
From a vacancy advertisement in Premier News, issue 446.
“… to undertake a conflict sensitivity capacity assessment of a consortium of NGOs and to review/document Case Studies on Conflict Sensitive Approaches (CSA) in Sierra Leone. The consultancy will develop an Assessment Methodology; provide expert support to the Consortium members during CSA self-assessment, setting Change Objectives and developing partner agency Capacity Building Plans.”
Have your eyes glazed over yet? By the second sentence you should be fully lulled into a hypnotic trance… and then, almost subconsciously, I hit you with my funding request.
Here’s a quote from a funding application I received… Oh my, what am I supposed to think?
“… is intended to strengthen the practice of SGBV (something to do with gender-based violence – or wife-beating, more specifically) sensitivity throughout and beyond a broad consortium of humanitarian, peace-building and multi-mandate development NGOs.”
Perhaps it is a language barrier… pontificating beyond understanding as a way of achieving one’s end and sometimes filling one’s belly. Yikes.
From “ENCISS – Enhancing the Interaction and Interface between Civil Society and the State to improve poor peoples lives (ENCISS),
The purpose of the ENCISS Programme is the increased capacity of representative civil society to participate in, influence, contribute to and monitor the Poverty Reduction Strategy and Local Government policy, planning and implementation, and strengthen capacity of the Government of Sierra Leone to engage in constructive dialogue with civil society within these policy frameworks. The focus of ENCISS will be improving the interface between state and non-state actors.”
Please forgive my innocence and ignorance… but honestly, what are these people really doing? Say what you mean and communicate it clearly for the rest of us, please!
Searching for clarity – beyond the gobbledegook, blather, chatter, prattle, drivel, double-talk, gibberish and development-speak.
Stephen
And, all you have to do is randomly list these “jargon-y” words… and somehow donors give, NGOs salivate, politicians are elected and the “development community” grows. I sometimes feel like I should create a document listing all these jargon words with instructions to order them any way you see fit…
For example… “Please use these words, in any order, when considering our development organization for funding… capacity building, stakeholders, facilitating civil society, NGOs, INGOs, organizational, structural development, training, engagement methodology, implement, consortium, humanitarian initiatives, strategic objectives, engaging project affected peoples, opening dialogue…” Well, you get the picture. None of this makes any sense but look at what “makes sense” to those involved here.
From a vacancy advertisement in Premier News, issue 446.
“… to undertake a conflict sensitivity capacity assessment of a consortium of NGOs and to review/document Case Studies on Conflict Sensitive Approaches (CSA) in Sierra Leone. The consultancy will develop an Assessment Methodology; provide expert support to the Consortium members during CSA self-assessment, setting Change Objectives and developing partner agency Capacity Building Plans.”
Have your eyes glazed over yet? By the second sentence you should be fully lulled into a hypnotic trance… and then, almost subconsciously, I hit you with my funding request.
Here’s a quote from a funding application I received… Oh my, what am I supposed to think?
“… is intended to strengthen the practice of SGBV (something to do with gender-based violence – or wife-beating, more specifically) sensitivity throughout and beyond a broad consortium of humanitarian, peace-building and multi-mandate development NGOs.”
Perhaps it is a language barrier… pontificating beyond understanding as a way of achieving one’s end and sometimes filling one’s belly. Yikes.
From “ENCISS – Enhancing the Interaction and Interface between Civil Society and the State to improve poor peoples lives (ENCISS),
The purpose of the ENCISS Programme is the increased capacity of representative civil society to participate in, influence, contribute to and monitor the Poverty Reduction Strategy and Local Government policy, planning and implementation, and strengthen capacity of the Government of Sierra Leone to engage in constructive dialogue with civil society within these policy frameworks. The focus of ENCISS will be improving the interface between state and non-state actors.”
Please forgive my innocence and ignorance… but honestly, what are these people really doing? Say what you mean and communicate it clearly for the rest of us, please!
Searching for clarity – beyond the gobbledegook, blather, chatter, prattle, drivel, double-talk, gibberish and development-speak.
Stephen
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Shooters take to the streets...
No, no, not "that" kind of shooting...I mean shooting of photographs - or "snapping" as it's called here.
I've been doing workshops on photographic technique, composition, business and ethics for the Indigenous Photographers Union of Sierra Leone and the final "class" ended with a fieldtrip through town. Can you imagine... 60 photographers gathering at the Congo Cross junction to march and snap down to the Youyie Building - where most of the government ministries are located. It was a photographic extravaganza.
There we were... snapping, talking to people, getting people to pose, stopping traffic, doing portraits of police officers, snapping billboards and graffiti... shooting buildings... and wrapping up our workshop series.
It was an awesome sight... and it was the first of its kind in Sierra Leone. Wow... it almost felt like a "movement" or the blossoming of an industry. Very cool.
Most - probably 90% of the photographers still shoot with colour film (there's no such thing as B&W film here anymore) and most photographers are using film cameras that are at least ten years old. Manual focus, manual wind, no light meters, some with no controls or dials that work... and yet we made it all work. I'll be doing a "post-workshop evaluation" next week where we'll be looking at several samples from each of the photographers... so that should be interesting. Then, the Union wants to enlarge and frame the best photos for exhibition. Wow. What a good idea.
It was awesome and I'll try to upload some images from the fieldtrip.
Gotta love technology... or the lack of it.
Stephen
I've been doing workshops on photographic technique, composition, business and ethics for the Indigenous Photographers Union of Sierra Leone and the final "class" ended with a fieldtrip through town. Can you imagine... 60 photographers gathering at the Congo Cross junction to march and snap down to the Youyie Building - where most of the government ministries are located. It was a photographic extravaganza.
There we were... snapping, talking to people, getting people to pose, stopping traffic, doing portraits of police officers, snapping billboards and graffiti... shooting buildings... and wrapping up our workshop series.
It was an awesome sight... and it was the first of its kind in Sierra Leone. Wow... it almost felt like a "movement" or the blossoming of an industry. Very cool.
Most - probably 90% of the photographers still shoot with colour film (there's no such thing as B&W film here anymore) and most photographers are using film cameras that are at least ten years old. Manual focus, manual wind, no light meters, some with no controls or dials that work... and yet we made it all work. I'll be doing a "post-workshop evaluation" next week where we'll be looking at several samples from each of the photographers... so that should be interesting. Then, the Union wants to enlarge and frame the best photos for exhibition. Wow. What a good idea.
It was awesome and I'll try to upload some images from the fieldtrip.
Gotta love technology... or the lack of it.
Stephen
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Two sides of the same coin…
The statistics don’t lie… Sierra Leone ranks among the lowest of the low (sometimes sitting on the very bottom) of almost all United Nations, World Bank and development analysis. From infant and maternal mortality to unemployment… From poverty levels to illiteracy rates… From average life expectancy to gross domestic product and exports… Sierra Leone is a desperate place.
But, there’s a flip side to the Sierra Leone coin and I’ve had a brief glimpse at that burgeoning underside. Actually, it’s the top-side of the coin… and it remains elusive and mostly hidden behind high, razor-wired, concrete walls and darkened SUV windows. There is a small but elite group… mostly foreign, among our populace. They are here… preserved and rarefied.
Country Lodge, a rather understated moniker for the country’s swankiest hotel, overlooks the city and out over the ocean from the heights of Hill Station. If you’ve got enough money or the right connections, you’ll be invited up the bumpy, winding road to the reserved heights of western amenities. No bucket baths in this place… gleaming tile, tablecloths, western food and an outdoor pool and hot tub are available for about $150 a night. The price alone prevents most locals from visiting… so only the well-heeled traveller and occasional UN or international aid group can afford to wine and dine there.
I managed to wrangle an invitation to a reception at Country Lodge hosted by UNICEF for the visiting African director… and enjoyed “nibbles” and a double gin-and-tonic on their bill. It was my first visit to the place and I realized, zipping up the hill and through the monstrous iron gates on the back of an okada (little motorcycle taxi), was probably a touch inappropriate… given the lines of white SUVs and untarnished luxury motorcars. I did get a few looks but have realized that the colour of my skin allows me a certain flexibility among the glitterati.
And speaking of glitter… Sierra Leone is home to some of the world’s largest diamond, gold, bauxite and mineral mines. In fact, the Kono district in the south east of the country is infamous for its foreign-owned diamond mining. (the movie “Blood Diamond” is based on the plentiful diamonds that helped fund dictators, rebellions and heinous acts of suffering) Apparently, throughout the 70s and pre-conflict, diamonds could be found on the streets and paths following a heavy rain. The interesting thing is that Sierra Leone has this incredible wealth – gold and diamonds – only a scratch beneath the dirt surface and yet people and villages are dirt poor. The money is there but it’s quickly siphoned away by a very few wealthy mining companies and individuals.
The country’s natural resources are plentiful – lumber (although there are now environmental factors contributing to the industry’s downfall), fruit and vegetables, spices, minerals, fertile grounds, sunny skies and warm temperatures yet there’s almost no industry or manufacturing here. For example, mangoes and coconut grow everywhere and 95% of the crops are wasted or rot on the trees. I regularly buy mangoes on the street where they’re sold for pennies but nothing is refined or finished… You’d think I’d be able to get a fresh, delicious mango fruit drink or shake somewhere… but no… I end up buying stale-dated Ceres tetra paks instead.
Speaking of manufacturing and industrialization… that reminds me of another one of the more glaring examples of this two-sided coin. Electicity – or the lack of power to the people, as I’ve written before. The President keeps saying, “oh, it’s coming next month, next week, tomorrow,” but it’s been almost 25 years in the making including several regime and government changes along the way. It seems there are certain areas of Freetown that have been designated “essential” including the president’s compound, the State House, a bank or two and several of the more infamous hotels. Country Lodge, for example, is on the same hill as the president’s home and thus enjoys almost 24-hour electricity. I should add that many of the houses I passed on my way up the hill were without power. Infrastructure, including power lines, are rare commodities.
Some areas in the western part of Freetown have more power than others. I know one area that enjoys about eight hours a day of NPA (National Power Authority) electricity… and coincidentally that neighbourhood is up Wilkinson Road and home to many UN staffers and aid groups. The east, on the other hand, has very little electricity and is home to the poorest areas in the country. It seems you have to live in the right area… or on the “right” side of the tracks to enjoy even the slightest flickers of electricity.
There’s a bar at the western most end of Lumley Beach called the Atlantic, appropriately enough, and it’s run by an ex-Brit named J.W. Okay, I’ll admit, I’ve been there a couple of times and while it’s no where near as famous Paddy’s (as depicted in the movie “Blood Diamonds”) the Atlantic is still a hot spot especially among the ex-pat community, UN workers, NGOs, the Lebanese and those of us with lighter skins. The bar sits on the sand and overlooks the beach. And, you wouldn’t believe the sunsets… incredible. Again, the only locals you’ll find there are the staff and the sex-trade workers.
The other hot spot, besides Paddy’s, is a place called the “Office” that features another gorgeous view of the ocean. It’s a new place, lots of chrome and glass, but costs Le15,000 ($3.00) to get in. I’ve been told “it’s the place to see and be seen” which is probably why I haven’t bothered to cough up the entrance fee. (I had a tour of the place one afternoon when I got lost in that area) And, if you’re truly a Sierra Leoneon a-list type, you can visit the “whiskey bar” (Le150,000 entrance) that apparently offers a selection of over 100 imported whiskeys.
Interestingly, the majority of local businesses are owned by Indians, Chinese or Lebanese men. There’s the expected racism between each ethnic group and Sierra Leoneons… not to mention the inherent Sierra Leoneon tribal divide between the Fullers, the Mende, the Mandingo and the Temene. These divides create economic disparity as well. And, it’s not uncommon to see Indian families driving to and from shops in fancy-ish cars. And, it’s quite common to see Lebanese families peering from their balconies down onto the busy streets in the west of Freetown. I’ve heard tell that the Indians and Lebanese live in a world unto themselves… separate and distinct and somehow above it all.
As with any city in the world… there are those with money/power and those without. The disparity between these groups in Sierra Leone is huge. On the one hand you have the blind beggars (lead around by small children) in the streets… asking for money from the occasional Hummer or dark-window SUV. The thing is, there are very few Hummers around and a great number of amputees, disabled or elderly beggars.
I live somewhere in the middle… occasionally riding in a white SUV and sporadically asking to borrow Le5,000 from colleagues for a taxi back to my apartment. I can’t say I live on both sides of the coin but I occasionally catch glimpses of each side as it spins in the air.
Counting coins,
Stephen
But, there’s a flip side to the Sierra Leone coin and I’ve had a brief glimpse at that burgeoning underside. Actually, it’s the top-side of the coin… and it remains elusive and mostly hidden behind high, razor-wired, concrete walls and darkened SUV windows. There is a small but elite group… mostly foreign, among our populace. They are here… preserved and rarefied.
Country Lodge, a rather understated moniker for the country’s swankiest hotel, overlooks the city and out over the ocean from the heights of Hill Station. If you’ve got enough money or the right connections, you’ll be invited up the bumpy, winding road to the reserved heights of western amenities. No bucket baths in this place… gleaming tile, tablecloths, western food and an outdoor pool and hot tub are available for about $150 a night. The price alone prevents most locals from visiting… so only the well-heeled traveller and occasional UN or international aid group can afford to wine and dine there.
I managed to wrangle an invitation to a reception at Country Lodge hosted by UNICEF for the visiting African director… and enjoyed “nibbles” and a double gin-and-tonic on their bill. It was my first visit to the place and I realized, zipping up the hill and through the monstrous iron gates on the back of an okada (little motorcycle taxi), was probably a touch inappropriate… given the lines of white SUVs and untarnished luxury motorcars. I did get a few looks but have realized that the colour of my skin allows me a certain flexibility among the glitterati.
And speaking of glitter… Sierra Leone is home to some of the world’s largest diamond, gold, bauxite and mineral mines. In fact, the Kono district in the south east of the country is infamous for its foreign-owned diamond mining. (the movie “Blood Diamond” is based on the plentiful diamonds that helped fund dictators, rebellions and heinous acts of suffering) Apparently, throughout the 70s and pre-conflict, diamonds could be found on the streets and paths following a heavy rain. The interesting thing is that Sierra Leone has this incredible wealth – gold and diamonds – only a scratch beneath the dirt surface and yet people and villages are dirt poor. The money is there but it’s quickly siphoned away by a very few wealthy mining companies and individuals.
The country’s natural resources are plentiful – lumber (although there are now environmental factors contributing to the industry’s downfall), fruit and vegetables, spices, minerals, fertile grounds, sunny skies and warm temperatures yet there’s almost no industry or manufacturing here. For example, mangoes and coconut grow everywhere and 95% of the crops are wasted or rot on the trees. I regularly buy mangoes on the street where they’re sold for pennies but nothing is refined or finished… You’d think I’d be able to get a fresh, delicious mango fruit drink or shake somewhere… but no… I end up buying stale-dated Ceres tetra paks instead.
Speaking of manufacturing and industrialization… that reminds me of another one of the more glaring examples of this two-sided coin. Electicity – or the lack of power to the people, as I’ve written before. The President keeps saying, “oh, it’s coming next month, next week, tomorrow,” but it’s been almost 25 years in the making including several regime and government changes along the way. It seems there are certain areas of Freetown that have been designated “essential” including the president’s compound, the State House, a bank or two and several of the more infamous hotels. Country Lodge, for example, is on the same hill as the president’s home and thus enjoys almost 24-hour electricity. I should add that many of the houses I passed on my way up the hill were without power. Infrastructure, including power lines, are rare commodities.
Some areas in the western part of Freetown have more power than others. I know one area that enjoys about eight hours a day of NPA (National Power Authority) electricity… and coincidentally that neighbourhood is up Wilkinson Road and home to many UN staffers and aid groups. The east, on the other hand, has very little electricity and is home to the poorest areas in the country. It seems you have to live in the right area… or on the “right” side of the tracks to enjoy even the slightest flickers of electricity.
There’s a bar at the western most end of Lumley Beach called the Atlantic, appropriately enough, and it’s run by an ex-Brit named J.W. Okay, I’ll admit, I’ve been there a couple of times and while it’s no where near as famous Paddy’s (as depicted in the movie “Blood Diamonds”) the Atlantic is still a hot spot especially among the ex-pat community, UN workers, NGOs, the Lebanese and those of us with lighter skins. The bar sits on the sand and overlooks the beach. And, you wouldn’t believe the sunsets… incredible. Again, the only locals you’ll find there are the staff and the sex-trade workers.
The other hot spot, besides Paddy’s, is a place called the “Office” that features another gorgeous view of the ocean. It’s a new place, lots of chrome and glass, but costs Le15,000 ($3.00) to get in. I’ve been told “it’s the place to see and be seen” which is probably why I haven’t bothered to cough up the entrance fee. (I had a tour of the place one afternoon when I got lost in that area) And, if you’re truly a Sierra Leoneon a-list type, you can visit the “whiskey bar” (Le150,000 entrance) that apparently offers a selection of over 100 imported whiskeys.
Interestingly, the majority of local businesses are owned by Indians, Chinese or Lebanese men. There’s the expected racism between each ethnic group and Sierra Leoneons… not to mention the inherent Sierra Leoneon tribal divide between the Fullers, the Mende, the Mandingo and the Temene. These divides create economic disparity as well. And, it’s not uncommon to see Indian families driving to and from shops in fancy-ish cars. And, it’s quite common to see Lebanese families peering from their balconies down onto the busy streets in the west of Freetown. I’ve heard tell that the Indians and Lebanese live in a world unto themselves… separate and distinct and somehow above it all.
As with any city in the world… there are those with money/power and those without. The disparity between these groups in Sierra Leone is huge. On the one hand you have the blind beggars (lead around by small children) in the streets… asking for money from the occasional Hummer or dark-window SUV. The thing is, there are very few Hummers around and a great number of amputees, disabled or elderly beggars.
I live somewhere in the middle… occasionally riding in a white SUV and sporadically asking to borrow Le5,000 from colleagues for a taxi back to my apartment. I can’t say I live on both sides of the coin but I occasionally catch glimpses of each side as it spins in the air.
Counting coins,
Stephen
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Sharing the pie...
One of the most disconcerting things about Freetown and Sierra Leone is the status of “the media” or, to be more specific, the unprofessional attitude of journalists, editors and media owners. Don’t get me wrong… there are some very ethical, responsible and diligent reporters around. But, they seem to be in the minority. As a result, the public perception of reporters and the newspapers and radio stations they work for is very low. People are either threatened by or disgusted by reporters… many of whom are young, only functionally literate, unpaid or severely underpaid, untrained, unskilled and usually hungry.
Let me back up a little bit. The post-conflict, fragile state of this country has fostered a ton of international aid, a proliferation of NGOs (legitimate and not), a tentative democratic government and an uncertain, sometimes frustrated attitude among its citizenry. In fact, I’ve inquired from several people about the current state of the country compared to conditions before the conflict throughout the 90s. To a one, they’ve all said, “things are the same if not worse.” Unemployment is a huge problem, poverty, hunger, strife, unhealthy living conditions are rampant, healthcare is almost non-existent, corruption at all levels is obvious and ever-present… marginalization is at its peak… and anger, frustration and fear are a scratch beneath the surface. This tenuous state contributes to all kinds of scams, corruption, deceits and downright plagues of mistrust, misapprehension and abuse.
Reporters and editors… indeed the entire media industry is not immune from these deceits, scams and abuse. And, I’m constantly amazed at how low reporters and editors will stoop to pocket a few Leones – for food, medicine and the basic necessities of life. Everyone here is out to make some extra money… however they can. How can I blame them? How can one judge when they “have to” in order to live… And, wouldn’t I try the same things if I were in their shoes or shacks?
I’ve compiled a list, ever-growing it seems, of unethical and unprofessional things reporters and editors do to make a living… unfortunately contributing to the fear and loathing of public perception. I’m amazed at the brilliance of their scams… For example, let’s start with reporters. It’s not uncommon or unheard of for a reporter to approach a businessperson, show their media ID card, and demand money NOT to write a negative story about the business or personal life of the business-owner. Yes, it’s outright blackmail… and it’ll cost you Le50,000 (about $30 CDN) to escape a tarnished reputation and potential loss of income. And, that’s a mild one.
I had an editor tell me about an instance where a reporter sniffed out an Indian business-owner who was allegedly having affairs with young boys working in his shop. Of course, there was no proof, no verification, no credibility to the story but four journalists approached the Indian man and accused him of “being a homosexual and paedophile”. The accused paid off the four reporters. Within a week, however, the story appeared in three other newspapers… The unsubstantiated story was “sold” by the four original reporters to other reporters, who “broke” the story, which was untrue from the beginning.
The opposite happens as well. A reporter will write something positive, an advertorial in essence, about a business or a politician, and they’ll take the published article back to the subject and demand a “token” for his services.
Of course, reporters or editors are paid by politicians, sometimes, to ignore stories… “Don’t report this corruption, breach of trust or whatever, and I’ll pay you Le100,000.” Or, more often than not, reporters, editors or publishers are paid a monthly stipend to support a politician or political party. Independent media is a long-forgotten ideal… shoved aside by the necessity to feed one’s family.
Or, here’s another not-so-ingenious scam… a reporter will read a story in a competitor’s paper, copy the article, put his name on the piece and submit it to his own editor the following day… Yes, plagiarism is rampant whether it’s stealing something off another reporter or off the radio or via the internet. In fact, it’s not uncommon to read stories straight from the BBC website or Yahoo news… and it’s so blatantly obvious – full sentences, proper grammar, story structure, etc. – things that don’t usually happen in local reports.
NGOs unfortunately contribute to many unethical practices in the media… In order to get a story or press release into the papers or on the radio, an NGO or aid organization will call a press conference… where they offer the reporters “transport” money, a free meal and a one-sided, biased press release praising their own work. Often the press release is published verbatim and never verified, properly sourced or credited. Among the industry, this is referred to as “coasting”.
Organizations will often hand-deliver press conference invitations to media offices (there’s no postal system here and very few folks have e-mail or regularly check their e-mail accounts). I recently discovered that a receptionist (sort of) was holding back these invitations and “selling” them to the reporters… If the receptionist or front line security person suspected an invitation would pay significant “transport” money, they’d offer them to the reporters for a fee. Again… everyone wants his or her piece of the pie – to the point where the pie cannot sustain anyone.
I recently hosted a community forum on “the future of media in Sierra Leone”. In attendance were community members, reporters, editors, friends of the media and some government types. When I began my opening and introductory lecture, I was confronted by a bobbing, throbbing video camera… that captured almost the entire workshop, including the three other presenters and footage of the audience. Ostensibly, the video was for a local television station and was to air as “news” later that night. (Workshops are considered “news” here… despite the fact that the content of most workshops, mine included, is not “news”) And, sure enough, a segment of the workshop did appear on the TV news. (There are only two TV channels in Freetown, one is government owned and operated and the other is a private organization owned by a Sierra Leonean in the U.S.)
But, what was interesting… and ingenious… was what else the reporter did with all his footage from the workshop. He approached my organization and sold the country director a CD copy of the workshop. Any NGO, including JHR, likes to have records of our activities so the market is ripe for video or print “proof” of activity. Then, he sold copies to each of the presenters… smart, talented people from radio, the university and from a branch of the government. And, got a free lunch at the workshop, he got paid from his TV station and he probably made close to Le400,000 from “my” one-day workshop. I should’ve asked for my “cut”…
Here’s another scam from the TV world… When a reporter is asked to attend a function, they’ll often say, “I have to buy batteries and tape first,” which is a not-so-obvious way of saying, “pay me first and I’ll show up to record and report your event, function or activity.”
Interestingly, when an editor suspects a reporter of getting paid to write or produce a story, they usually want their “cut”. For example, a reporter will write up the proceedings of a press conference… and receive Le50,000 from the NGO or organization. Some editors will demand their Le10,000 – Le20,000 cut of the proceeds in order to publish the story. Or, if an editor smells a blackmailed piece… he’ll demand his piece of the pie to publish the article. It’s a vicious cycle… or downward spiral.
Because most reporters, radio and newspaper, don’t type or don’t have access to a computer, an organization will “employ” a typist to translate a story from handwriting to print-ready copy. This typist, who doesn’t earn much, will charge the reporters to type out their stories. The reporters are handcuffed by their inability to type or access a computer. I should add that in most cases these typewritten versions of articles are full of spelling mistakes, typos, little or no punctuation, etc. And, no one does much proofreading…
Of course, the age-old battle between advertising sales and editorial purity continues… similar to publishing constraints in western media, I might add. If there’s no advertising, a newspaper won’t publish. If an advertiser wants a feature article, they get it – if they pay. If an advertiser wants a full-page ad on page three (an especially prized media placement) they get it – if they pay. If an NGO wants to issue a press release or public service announcement (PSA) on the radio – they pay. Media owners, editors and reporters will bend over backwards to get ads… selling the soul of reputable media, just like we do in the west. The bottom line, money and profits, are still the driving force of media industries around the world. Desperation leads to all kinds of unethical contributions to the media, especially in Sierra Leone.
In most newspapers, reporters are considered “freelancers” meaning they get paid for the story if or when it runs in the paper. I’ve heard tell of editors receiving a reporter’s copy and re-writing the piece, putting their own byline at the top of the page… They then refuse to pay the reporter. Instead, the editor receives the freelance payment and the reporter won’t eat that night.
I’m not exactly preaching from an elevated podium when I talk about unethical reporting or pure journalism. I’ve accepted gifts or graft from advertisers (nothing big like a car or house…) But, I once received a “magic bullet” blender from an advertiser… and I’ve been on press junkets hosted by public relations firms. In fact, I still use a jacket I got from Canon cameras while shooting at the Olympics several years ago. And, I’m usually happy to drink the coffee and eat a donut at Canadian press conferences. So, I’m not pure… and don’t proclaim to be entirely above accepting some media perks along the way. And, there’s no telling what I’d do if it came down to feeding my family or providing medication to loved ones. But, what I’ve seen in Sierra Leone would make most western editors, publishers and media owners cringe in disbelief.
But, let’s look at the reality of the media industry here… the pie is small… many people need to eat from that pie… and it’s perhaps wise to divide it up so more people can eat.
Searching for solutions,
Stephen
Let me back up a little bit. The post-conflict, fragile state of this country has fostered a ton of international aid, a proliferation of NGOs (legitimate and not), a tentative democratic government and an uncertain, sometimes frustrated attitude among its citizenry. In fact, I’ve inquired from several people about the current state of the country compared to conditions before the conflict throughout the 90s. To a one, they’ve all said, “things are the same if not worse.” Unemployment is a huge problem, poverty, hunger, strife, unhealthy living conditions are rampant, healthcare is almost non-existent, corruption at all levels is obvious and ever-present… marginalization is at its peak… and anger, frustration and fear are a scratch beneath the surface. This tenuous state contributes to all kinds of scams, corruption, deceits and downright plagues of mistrust, misapprehension and abuse.
Reporters and editors… indeed the entire media industry is not immune from these deceits, scams and abuse. And, I’m constantly amazed at how low reporters and editors will stoop to pocket a few Leones – for food, medicine and the basic necessities of life. Everyone here is out to make some extra money… however they can. How can I blame them? How can one judge when they “have to” in order to live… And, wouldn’t I try the same things if I were in their shoes or shacks?
I’ve compiled a list, ever-growing it seems, of unethical and unprofessional things reporters and editors do to make a living… unfortunately contributing to the fear and loathing of public perception. I’m amazed at the brilliance of their scams… For example, let’s start with reporters. It’s not uncommon or unheard of for a reporter to approach a businessperson, show their media ID card, and demand money NOT to write a negative story about the business or personal life of the business-owner. Yes, it’s outright blackmail… and it’ll cost you Le50,000 (about $30 CDN) to escape a tarnished reputation and potential loss of income. And, that’s a mild one.
I had an editor tell me about an instance where a reporter sniffed out an Indian business-owner who was allegedly having affairs with young boys working in his shop. Of course, there was no proof, no verification, no credibility to the story but four journalists approached the Indian man and accused him of “being a homosexual and paedophile”. The accused paid off the four reporters. Within a week, however, the story appeared in three other newspapers… The unsubstantiated story was “sold” by the four original reporters to other reporters, who “broke” the story, which was untrue from the beginning.
The opposite happens as well. A reporter will write something positive, an advertorial in essence, about a business or a politician, and they’ll take the published article back to the subject and demand a “token” for his services.
Of course, reporters or editors are paid by politicians, sometimes, to ignore stories… “Don’t report this corruption, breach of trust or whatever, and I’ll pay you Le100,000.” Or, more often than not, reporters, editors or publishers are paid a monthly stipend to support a politician or political party. Independent media is a long-forgotten ideal… shoved aside by the necessity to feed one’s family.
Or, here’s another not-so-ingenious scam… a reporter will read a story in a competitor’s paper, copy the article, put his name on the piece and submit it to his own editor the following day… Yes, plagiarism is rampant whether it’s stealing something off another reporter or off the radio or via the internet. In fact, it’s not uncommon to read stories straight from the BBC website or Yahoo news… and it’s so blatantly obvious – full sentences, proper grammar, story structure, etc. – things that don’t usually happen in local reports.
NGOs unfortunately contribute to many unethical practices in the media… In order to get a story or press release into the papers or on the radio, an NGO or aid organization will call a press conference… where they offer the reporters “transport” money, a free meal and a one-sided, biased press release praising their own work. Often the press release is published verbatim and never verified, properly sourced or credited. Among the industry, this is referred to as “coasting”.
Organizations will often hand-deliver press conference invitations to media offices (there’s no postal system here and very few folks have e-mail or regularly check their e-mail accounts). I recently discovered that a receptionist (sort of) was holding back these invitations and “selling” them to the reporters… If the receptionist or front line security person suspected an invitation would pay significant “transport” money, they’d offer them to the reporters for a fee. Again… everyone wants his or her piece of the pie – to the point where the pie cannot sustain anyone.
I recently hosted a community forum on “the future of media in Sierra Leone”. In attendance were community members, reporters, editors, friends of the media and some government types. When I began my opening and introductory lecture, I was confronted by a bobbing, throbbing video camera… that captured almost the entire workshop, including the three other presenters and footage of the audience. Ostensibly, the video was for a local television station and was to air as “news” later that night. (Workshops are considered “news” here… despite the fact that the content of most workshops, mine included, is not “news”) And, sure enough, a segment of the workshop did appear on the TV news. (There are only two TV channels in Freetown, one is government owned and operated and the other is a private organization owned by a Sierra Leonean in the U.S.)
But, what was interesting… and ingenious… was what else the reporter did with all his footage from the workshop. He approached my organization and sold the country director a CD copy of the workshop. Any NGO, including JHR, likes to have records of our activities so the market is ripe for video or print “proof” of activity. Then, he sold copies to each of the presenters… smart, talented people from radio, the university and from a branch of the government. And, got a free lunch at the workshop, he got paid from his TV station and he probably made close to Le400,000 from “my” one-day workshop. I should’ve asked for my “cut”…
Here’s another scam from the TV world… When a reporter is asked to attend a function, they’ll often say, “I have to buy batteries and tape first,” which is a not-so-obvious way of saying, “pay me first and I’ll show up to record and report your event, function or activity.”
Interestingly, when an editor suspects a reporter of getting paid to write or produce a story, they usually want their “cut”. For example, a reporter will write up the proceedings of a press conference… and receive Le50,000 from the NGO or organization. Some editors will demand their Le10,000 – Le20,000 cut of the proceeds in order to publish the story. Or, if an editor smells a blackmailed piece… he’ll demand his piece of the pie to publish the article. It’s a vicious cycle… or downward spiral.
Because most reporters, radio and newspaper, don’t type or don’t have access to a computer, an organization will “employ” a typist to translate a story from handwriting to print-ready copy. This typist, who doesn’t earn much, will charge the reporters to type out their stories. The reporters are handcuffed by their inability to type or access a computer. I should add that in most cases these typewritten versions of articles are full of spelling mistakes, typos, little or no punctuation, etc. And, no one does much proofreading…
Of course, the age-old battle between advertising sales and editorial purity continues… similar to publishing constraints in western media, I might add. If there’s no advertising, a newspaper won’t publish. If an advertiser wants a feature article, they get it – if they pay. If an advertiser wants a full-page ad on page three (an especially prized media placement) they get it – if they pay. If an NGO wants to issue a press release or public service announcement (PSA) on the radio – they pay. Media owners, editors and reporters will bend over backwards to get ads… selling the soul of reputable media, just like we do in the west. The bottom line, money and profits, are still the driving force of media industries around the world. Desperation leads to all kinds of unethical contributions to the media, especially in Sierra Leone.
In most newspapers, reporters are considered “freelancers” meaning they get paid for the story if or when it runs in the paper. I’ve heard tell of editors receiving a reporter’s copy and re-writing the piece, putting their own byline at the top of the page… They then refuse to pay the reporter. Instead, the editor receives the freelance payment and the reporter won’t eat that night.
I’m not exactly preaching from an elevated podium when I talk about unethical reporting or pure journalism. I’ve accepted gifts or graft from advertisers (nothing big like a car or house…) But, I once received a “magic bullet” blender from an advertiser… and I’ve been on press junkets hosted by public relations firms. In fact, I still use a jacket I got from Canon cameras while shooting at the Olympics several years ago. And, I’m usually happy to drink the coffee and eat a donut at Canadian press conferences. So, I’m not pure… and don’t proclaim to be entirely above accepting some media perks along the way. And, there’s no telling what I’d do if it came down to feeding my family or providing medication to loved ones. But, what I’ve seen in Sierra Leone would make most western editors, publishers and media owners cringe in disbelief.
But, let’s look at the reality of the media industry here… the pie is small… many people need to eat from that pie… and it’s perhaps wise to divide it up so more people can eat.
Searching for solutions,
Stephen
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