Monday, August 31, 2009

Small and peaceful...

It started innocently enough… Michael, a young gentleman who worked diligently for my landlord and kept the courtyard and environs incredibly neat, told me about his dream to go back to secondary school to finish his education. He’d dropped out of school when he was twelve to support his mother and siblings. He speaks little English and can barely read… let alone write, in any language. But, he’s bright, quick with a smile and always very friendly and accommodating.

Michael’s situation is a very common phenomenon here and according to a recent UNICEF and Ministry of Education, Youth and Sport report titled, “The Out-of-School Report” up to 40% of primary school-aged children do not attend school, despite the government’s commitment or lack thereof to the International Convention on the Rights of the Child. In Sierra Leone, “Article 28 of that Convention (Right to education): All children have the right to a primary education, which should be free,” is a complete misnomer. It’s one thing to have the right to free education but it’s another to see it in action or make it happen.

The Report forcefully illustrates the point that poverty is the major reason for children being out of school… among the many other reasons including early marriage, child-pregnancies, bullying and harassment from peers and teachers, disabilities, sexual abuse, peer pressure, cultural tradition, and so on. So, the streets in Freetown are often flooded with young children selling bags of water (straight from an untreated water supply), household goods including soaps and medications, charcoal, etc. And, their futures are reflected in the faces of the young men who hang about street corners trying to eek out a living selling fish heads, discarded tee-shirts or mismatched shoes.

But, a small revolution is at hand and I’m proud to be a supporter…

One day, as I sat in the courtyard reading, Michael approached and sat down beside me. We exchanged pleasantries and he eventually asked me what I was reading. I replied it was a book about the beautiful, bountiful science that surrounds us. (see the reference at the end of this post) He said he was interested in science, biology and chemistry… and asked if I could find him a book on science so he could study and prepare for some sort of secondary school exam.

Initially, I must admit, I was taken aback. One of the things I’m trying to avoid is “helping out” the hundreds of people who’ve asked me for money. It’s another fact of life here in Freetown – people see the colour of my skin and immediately assume I have buckets of money and that I’m freely distributing “western aid” on every corner. So, Michael’s request didn’t surprise me but it was the first indication from him that he’d like my help. And, it wasn’t money he wanted… but a book! To study! To further his education! I couldn’t say “no, next time…” or my new favourite “polite push-off”, “I’ll pray for you.” (when people ask what religion I am I say “I’m an atheist” and they seem happy to hear… little do they know)

I came face-to-face with my conviction to help in a sustainable way and to avoid contributing to the “aid mentality” that’s so prevalent in this country. However, a book… a lasting, sustainable and helpful instrument… that, I could justify.

So, the following day I wandered down Garrison St. near the Victoria Park market, amidst the dozens of street hawkers and managed to find a photocopied version of a biology textbook, written in 1980 – edition four – for Le40,000 or about $12.00. (the initial price quoted was Le150,000) I scooped it up and delivered it to Michael later that night. My gawd, you’d have thought I conjured a rain of coins… He was thrilled. And, for the next several weeks I watched his page-progress through the textbook.

A week or so later, Yousef, one of the young security guys, told me he was very interested in economics and business. I’d noticed Yousef reading over Michael’s shoulder on several occasions and felt his interest was genuine. So, when Yousef asked if I could find him a book on business, I quickly accepted the challenge. Books are a rarity here… and with a 75% illiteracy rate it’s easy to see that the market for books and reading is very small – despite the number of daily newspapers.

However, I managed to track down a very well-used, secondary school workbook on business and economics. And, Yousef was thrilled. He’s since read through that one and he’s now into a math book – probably a grade ten level – that he’s devouring. This second book was a real challenge… I was aided by a primary school teacher and neighbour, MarVel, who took me to a shack outside her school. And, because I was MarVel’s friend, the shop-owner sold me the book for Le20,000 or just about $7.00.

There’s another young man, Moses, an Okada driver who’s frequently shuffled me about on the back of his motorbike and who is very interested in football/soccer. “Moses the motorcycle man” went to school till he was about eight and has been working at a variety of “jobs” since then – almost 12 years. He regularly regales me with football stories as we zip among the traffic of Freetown. (Sometimes I have to tell him to stop waving his left hand about and hold onto the handlebars… but he’s very passionate about football.)

I was given a copy of a new book by a Sierra Leoneon footballer named Mohamed Kallon who plays in the European league and is a legend among young Sierra Leoneons. It was a promo-copy and terribly written… but it was local and just perfect for someone who had very few reading skills. (it’s written at about a grade four reading level) When I handed the book over to Moses – the first and only new book he’s ever owned – he beamed.

I guess the revolution is spreading… and yesterday another neighbourhood child asked me (Uncle Stephen because of my “silver and gold hair” and advanced age) if I could find her a book about science fiction – “space and other worlds”, in her words. She said she was in “form three” which is roughly grade eleven… That’ll be my mission, among others, this week. I think I recall seeing a photocopied version of an Asimov novel among the street hawkers near the market…

It may be a small, peaceful revolution but at least it’s a start… and who knows – maybe one day, one of these readers will evolve into the next Gordimer or Asimov or Einstein or Gates. And, like most revolutions, the initial supporters often don’t get to see the end results… but it’s the seeds of revolution that can spark eventual change.

Today I’m hopeful…
Stephen

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Sierra Leone hits Los Angeles…

We’re famous in Sierra Leone… and proof enough is this excerpt from an L.A. Times article. For the full story – and pictures – click on this site.

Check out the article at http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-resort25-2009aug25,0,4391065.story

Excerpted from the L.A. Times… August 25, 2009 written by Scott Kraft

“On a recent weekend, several dozen visitors parked their SUVs in the packed-sand lot and strolled through tropical stands of palm trees to the beach. Young village workers, some barefoot and others in sandals, took food and drink orders from bathers relaxing on the beach. In the restaurant's open-air kitchen, Bendu and his crew chopped tomatoes, onions and garlic for the fish marinade and placed skewers of barracuda and shrimp on the grill. A large pot of freshly cut potatoes bubbled in oil over a wood fire. The restaurant serves whatever the fishermen catch -- for less than $10 a plate, including fries or rice.”

“Among the day-trippers that Sunday was the U.N. secretary-general's special representative and his son, a Canadian journalist teaching in Sierra Leone, Dutch relief workers and half a dozen seminary students from Nigeria, Guinea, Indonesia and Ghana.”

I’m the “Canadian journalist teaching in Sierra Leone” and I spent the afternoon with Scott and the photographer, Liz, at the beach… my usual place of Sunday worship. (although, I have to admit, the heavy rains have dampened my worship ceremonies)

Later that week, I had dinner with Scott and Liz at the Country Lodge hotel, (I’ve written about that place before) where they were staying in grand luxury, and shared an evening of journalistic triumphs and trials here in Sierra Leone.

I should also mention that I had another dinner at “the Lodge” with a delegation from War Child International who were here working on some humanitarian project. Among the group was a Canadian photographer and a “rising or emerging” pop singer named Sy-ria (or something like that) who grew up here but is now living and working in Vancouver. Ah… a taste of “home conversation” about hockey, Stephen Harper, the Canadian media environment, etc.

The “foreigners” continue to flit through Freetown and for some reason I tend to meet up to share stories and nibble on news from the rest of the world. Last Saturday, I was part of a delegation that included a Danish woman from the labour movement… and the Sierra Leone Labour Congress. We were addressing the photographic union here and discussing training curriculum and pilot projects.

I’m also doing some ongoing training for the journalists at UN Radio through my friend, Sputnik. She’s the “chief” of that UN department and while traipsing through the UN building I met another Canadian, Reg, who’s in charge of UN staff security for Sierra Leone. Yes, it always helps to know people who know people who can keep us safe.

These relatively few interactions with “foreigners” often sustain and replenish my need for outside contact… and it’s fabulous to share stories and viewpoints on Sierra Leone, West Africa, and the rest of the world. It helps me feel more connected and less isolated.

Awaiting visitors,
Stephen

Friday, August 28, 2009

The power of words…

We are all aware of the power of the pen – or in many cases the potency of the pixel. Words have the power to enlighten, no question, but they can also be used to confuse… used for good and for evil. I’m not talking about a language barrier – this time. I’m talking about jargon… it’s rampant and annoying and confusing.

And, all you have to do is randomly list these “jargon-y” words… and somehow donors give, NGOs salivate, politicians are elected and the “development community” grows. I sometimes feel like I should create a document listing all these jargon words with instructions to order them any way you see fit…

For example… “Please use these words, in any order, when considering our development organization for funding… capacity building, stakeholders, facilitating civil society, NGOs, INGOs, organizational, structural development, training, engagement methodology, implement, consortium, humanitarian initiatives, strategic objectives, engaging project affected peoples, opening dialogue…” Well, you get the picture. None of this makes any sense but look at what “makes sense” to those involved here.

From a vacancy advertisement in Premier News, issue 446.

“… to undertake a conflict sensitivity capacity assessment of a consortium of NGOs and to review/document Case Studies on Conflict Sensitive Approaches (CSA) in Sierra Leone. The consultancy will develop an Assessment Methodology; provide expert support to the Consortium members during CSA self-assessment, setting Change Objectives and developing partner agency Capacity Building Plans.”

Have your eyes glazed over yet? By the second sentence you should be fully lulled into a hypnotic trance… and then, almost subconsciously, I hit you with my funding request.

Here’s a quote from a funding application I received… Oh my, what am I supposed to think?

“… is intended to strengthen the practice of SGBV (something to do with gender-based violence – or wife-beating, more specifically) sensitivity throughout and beyond a broad consortium of humanitarian, peace-building and multi-mandate development NGOs.”

Perhaps it is a language barrier… pontificating beyond understanding as a way of achieving one’s end and sometimes filling one’s belly. Yikes.

From “ENCISS – Enhancing the Interaction and Interface between Civil Society and the State to improve poor peoples lives (ENCISS),

The purpose of the ENCISS Programme is the increased capacity of representative civil society to participate in, influence, contribute to and monitor the Poverty Reduction Strategy and Local Government policy, planning and implementation, and strengthen capacity of the Government of Sierra Leone to engage in constructive dialogue with civil society within these policy frameworks. The focus of ENCISS will be improving the interface between state and non-state actors.”

Please forgive my innocence and ignorance… but honestly, what are these people really doing? Say what you mean and communicate it clearly for the rest of us, please!

Searching for clarity – beyond the gobbledegook, blather, chatter, prattle, drivel, double-talk, gibberish and development-speak.

Stephen