Independence Day - April 27, 2010

Sierra Leone celebrated it's 49th anniversary of independence from "our colonial masters", the British, on Tuesday, April 27, 2010. A national holiday... and a day of celebration, rumination and anticipation. The word on the streets - and from the President himself - "Wait. Things are getting better."

I spent the day at the National Stadium photographing events for the Ministry of Tourism - in preparation for the big 50th anniversary planned for 2011. Here, President Ernest Bai Koroma, inspects troops on the field of the stadium.

Later that day, the stadium cleared in preparations for a live concert featuring Akon, a Senegalese hip-hop performer now living large in the U.S. Of course, it rained... and after sitting for hours, soaking wet in the stands, I went home... but did get to the concert the following afternoon.

Akon was followed by several local performers who danced, lip-synced and gyrated around the stage to the delight of thousands... An event like this is rare - and so is the opportunity to celebrate something positive in Sierra Leone. It was good to see...

Still hopeful... and still working hard.
Yours,
Stephen

Maclean’s Missives

Sometimes word from “home” is so nice… E-mail letters are what keep me going here in Freetown. News, gossip, family updates, weather reports, etc. are welcome reminders of who’s who, what’s up and where’s where.

Imagine my surprise when a magazine-seller approached me in Crown Bakery, one of the most “western” retreats in the city, and held aloft a copy of Maclean’s magazine – the March 29th issue, no less. And, according to the cover, this one was a “Spring Double Issue”. Mr. Magazine-seller knows I’m Canadian and knows how I love to devour magazines. A “double-whammy” for him and a sure sale. Not even the depiction of a plaintive, bleeding Christ figure detoured me. And neither did the bare-all Martha Stewart book review highlighted at the top of the cover. Both things, I might add, that would usually turn my stomach.

I regularly buy “Focus on Africa” and “Africa Report” both published by U.K. companies. I sometimes buy “Newsweek” – usually two-three weeks out of date. And, I occasionally stumble across old issues of the “Economist” – a real treat. The local magazines, “Newday” and “SierraEye” are so bad… I end up regretting the small purchase price. I buy them to support the industry and quickly pass them along to word-hungry security guards or Class Six Secondary School students who are desperate for reading materials.

This issue of Maclean’s was only a week out of date… and bore the subscriber’s address as Leaside Park Dr., Toronto. I didn’t ask who or how or when… but quickly scratched together the 10,000Le he wanted and stashed the magazine into my briefcase… careful not to fold the cover, tear a page or wrinkle the binding.

I was going to savour this one… I was going to devour it’s contents over time… usually late at night, reading by the light of my headlamp, sitting under my mosquito netting, sweating and salivating over my deliciously Canadian magazine sweet-treat.

A week or so after my purchase, the magazine is wrinkled, folded, dog-eared, thumbed and fingered… and barely hanging together.

I think I read every word… even the ads, something I wouldn’t normally do. I read with compassion the story of Bernice Packford, who thinks she’s had enough of this life. I caught the controversy over the women’s and men’s Olympic coverage on the letters to the editor/mailbag pages. To Loblaws, Sobey’s, IGA, Foodland, etc. – isn’t it obvious that the price of a plastic grocery bag should be $1.00 – universally applied? That’s the only way to “encourage” environmentalism – via the pocketbook.

Is it really “good news” that Margaret Atwood sang? And, why should we care what she does with Olivia Newton-John? It certainly is “bad news” that Pringles was pulled off the shelves for suspected salmonella contamination. Interestingly, we can buy Pringles here – usually stale-dated, and I’m pretty sure those “maybe contaminated” tubes of tubers will wind up on store shelves here in West Africa.

I was shocked by Linda Frum’s article on the trouble at “Rights and Democracy”, “Canada’s publicly funded human rights organization”. What did she say? Eleven million dollars? Good gawd. I work with a human rights/media development organization and I’ve never seen the kind of money she talks about… Millions? Tens of thousands? Hundreds of thousands? Yeah right… Here I sit in Freetown, which would surely qualify as a “most deserving region of the world” and I’ve yet to see the kind of money Frum mentions for conferences, discretionary funds, managerial laptops or administration. Let me guess… of the eleven million dollar budget, less than 10% actually goes to those regions deemed deserving.

And, Paul Wells piece on “Harper’s Right Turn” incensed me and not just because I’m a left-leaning, slightly socialist journalist. How far right can we get? It’s a scary thought… Thanks Paul. But, it was good to see our “sacred” postal system illustrated by the likes of Andrew Tolson… who photographically captures the essence of how dire the system has become - unprofessional, lackadaisical, unresponsive and a behemoth/albatross around our necks. Time to do something about this place… the postal system, which I love so much, needs a massive upgrade in attitude and attention, in my mind.

Here I sit in post-conflict Sierra Leone… and imagine my surprise when I read about the (alleged) Liberian warlord living free and safe in Canada. Hmmm, on the diamonds from Sierra Leone perhaps? It’s a well-known fact here that the Liberian/Sierra Leonean war, through the 90s and into the millennium, was about diamonds, drugs, power and greed. And, we’re still seeing the effects. I attended the opening of the Charles Taylor trial at the Hague, via video conference at the Special Court of Sierra Leone. And, from what I learned, Taylor still controls a great deal of the wealth and power in Liberia. That’s a scary thought… but so is the notion that Canada has become a “haven” for a well-known killer and warlord. Where is Bill Horace now? Who’s investigating this further? It’s the tip of the iceberg… or, as they say here, the green snake in the grass. Time to look (carefully) deeper, in my mind.

Gay Republicans, bankrupt Greece, banning bluefin tuna, sandwiches, fashion runways, Activa yogurt and meatless Mondays were all great reads… from newsmakers to women in metal… some things I cared about deeply and others… well, no.

The Back Pages… I had to wonder who or why any reviewer much less a wily consumer would ever wade through almost 400 pages of bitchy, bare-all gossip about Martha Stewart. Why bother? Because she’s “famous”? I think the book industry can do without such blather, thank you very much. Kudos to Anne Kingston for getting through the book… and warning us all to stay the heck away. And, speaking of the book industry… way to go Penguin! Good effort but more work is required. Perhaps Penguin should read the piece about “curl maintenance”. It might help with the cover designs. Sigh.

Magazines, news, reports, etc. wouldn’t be complete without quandaries from Quebec. Mark Steyn has it covered… Intolerance? Yes. Taking it too far. Yes. Taking Quebec for who they are… Priceless!

The End – I think the only page my son, Isaac, reads… a remarkably moving story of a remarkably boring guy. Gotta love those.

Thank you, Maclean’s, however and whenever you arrived in Freetown… it was a blessing.

Your humble, boring, mag-material hungry servant,
Stephen

The government… is aquiver

Corruption… I’ve written about it before and am revisiting the topic because it’s been all over the news here in Sierra Leone – again. This time, however, the “barking dog has teeth”, as they say, and arrests, convictions and charges are in the air – and courts.

The Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) is an independent body set up to investigate and charge folks suspected of corruption, which, as you know, is rampant here in Sierra Leone – from police officers on the street right up through the highest levels of government. (I wish they’d do something about police corruption – bribery – but that seems to be just a fact of life here) One of the posters created by the ACC pictures a set of handcuffs with the slogan “one size fits all, even the big fishes”. And, interestingly, the ACC logo is a fierce looking eagle (or “ack”, a vicious bird of prey) that stares down its beak at any and all who dare glance in its direction.


Speaking of “big fishes”, Afsata Kabba, the Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources has just been relieved of her duties and charged with 17 counts of corruption… (“soliciting and accepting advantage” – nice terms for severely corrupt behaviour) It’s reported that she accepted thousands of dollars in bribes from the “fish mafia” operating off the coast of Sierra Leone. This after being “sacked and moved” from her position as Minister of Energy and Power, in early 2009, under suspicious circumstances – some say corrupt practices in that ministry as well. She ran the Fisheries Ministry for just under a year and now faces jail time, fines, etc. if she’s convicted. The war in the media continues over this matter – some supportive (paid off) publishers say she’s a “marine-heroine” and some say she’s a dastardly, evil, “fishy-mastermind”.

In November 2009, the Minister of Health and Sanitation, Sheiku Tejan Koroma, was relieved of his duties under suspicion of “accepting influence”, “abuse of office” and mismanagement of funds in his ministry. The Anti-Corruption Commission found several instances of suspicious misbehaviour and charged the (no-longer honourable) Minister with corruption… leading to a recent conviction in court and a sentence of five years imprisonment or payment of fines totalling approximately one hundred and fifty million Leones (about $40,000USD).

Apparently the former Minister visited the courts late last week and paid the fine – probably out of the mismanaged or ill-gotten monies while he was Minister… thereby avoiding a jail term in the Pademba Road prison – arguably one of the worst jails in the world. No doubt, if convicted, the former Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources will opt for the same route… again, paying the fines out of ill-gotten monies, I’m sure.

The National Revenue Authority (NRA) the government department responsible for tax collection, customs, etc. has also been shaken up. Last week, five “high up” men were suspended – some say “arrested” – for mismanagement and corrupt activities surrounding import containers and tax collection.

And, “the Commissioner, Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) has informed the Office of the President that since October this year, the ACC has been investigating specific reports of allegations made against, Mr. Allieu Sesay, the Commissioner-General of the National Revenue Authority (NRA). The allegations include inter alia misappropriation of public funds, misappropriation of donor funds, abuse of office, abuse of position, corrupt acquisition of wealth, fraudulent or wilful or negligent failure to comply with procurement laws or procedures and conflict of interest.”

The ACC is cracking down… and the head of the ACC, Abdul Tejan-Cole, is bent on challenging, investigating and prosecuting those “big fishes” who continue to abuse their positions of authority and responsibility. Who’s next is anyone’s guess… but I’m hoping the “barking dog continues to bite” in the fight against corruption. Nothing is more frustrating… or disheartening to the people of Sierra Leone.

Perhaps there’s hope…
Stephen

Malaria

Here’s what I know of malaria – it makes me feel like “shyte”. And, I’ve got it again – damn the mosquitoes. I’ve started my round of malaria meds and will be back on my feet again in a week or so… and will update all when symptoms calm down.

From the World Health Organization website – accessed on a day when I’m barely able to lift a finger to keyboard… but must take advantage of power and internet connectivity.

Malaria is caused by a parasite called Plasmodium, which is transmitted via the bites of infected mosquitoes. In the human body, the parasites multiply in the liver, and then infect red blood cells.

Symptoms of malaria include fever, headache, and vomiting, and usually appear between 10 and 15 days after the mosquito bite. If not treated, malaria can quickly become life-threatening by disrupting the blood supply to vital organs.

Key interventions to control malaria include: prompt and effective treatment with artemisinin-based combination therapies; use of insecticidal nets by people at risk; and indoor residual spraying with insecticide to control the vector mosquitoes.

From the World Malaria Report – 2009.

• Half of the world's population is at risk of malaria.
• An estimated 243 million malaria cases occurred in 2008.
• An estimated 863 000 malaria deaths occurred in 2008; 767 000 of those (89%) occurred in Africa.

From the Malaria Foundation International.

• Malaria is estimated to cause 300- 500 million clinical cases and over one million deaths each year.
• Every 30 seconds, a child somewhere dies of malaria. In any given year, nearly ten percent of the global population will suffer a case of malaria.
• Most survive after an illness of 10-20 days.
• Children are especially vulnerable to malaria. In Africa, where 80% of malaria cases are treated at home, the disease kills one child in twenty before the age of five.
• Pregnant women are also at high risk. They have an increase risk of disease and death, as well as adverse impacts for their developing babies- including low birth weight, growth retardation, still births and death.
• In African countries, up to 60% of hospital admissions may be for malaria; that's 6 out of 10 admissions!

I’ll survive because I’m a fortunate “pink” and can afford the medication, get to a pharmacy, take a day or two off work and get someone to bring me bread and water. For many of my neighbours, children, workers and non-workers in Sierra Leone, their options are far fewer. It’s scary out here…

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S/

The Beatles come to Sierra Leone

When did Ed Sullivan announce the Beatles arrival to North America? When did the British invasion of pop music and the Beatles start? All I know is that the broadcast – often reported as “the most important musical event in history” – was recorded in black and white – and four lads from Liverpool took the stage in black suits and ties.

Okay… if you remember, you’re probably a little older than I am now… February 9, 1964, to many, is as memorable as the day Kennedy was shot in Dallas. “Where were you when???” Sunday, February 9, 1964 was the day the Beatles made their first appearance on North American television. And, needless to say the day was memorable and monumental for many people.

Why am I writing about this… early February 2010??? Well, this February, in Freetown, Sierra Leone, I introduced the Beatles to a country that seems to have missed the British musical invasion – perhaps a backlash against the British colonial influence through the 1800s and 1900s. I’m no Ed Sullivan and it wasn’t on national television… but I can claim my place in Sierra Leone’s musical history.

I was invited to attend a graduation ceremony for a neighbour who completed her studies from the Camp Vocational Centre for Women in Food and Nutrition. A two year certificate program that carries significant weight around here. In fact, any certificate from any educational institute is important here… I won’t get into the state of education – yet – but needless to say it’s rather atrocious. This event was important – to understate the obvious.

At the party following the graduation, held at the Bentina Restaurant and Bar in Aberdeen across from the beach, the music was loud, the celebrants beamed, family and friends proudly presented gifts to the graduates… and people danced, ate and drank in merriment. Anticipating a rather painful musical experience, I prepared a CD – a “plate” – of music from Canada, which included Mae Moore, Brian Adams, the Tragically Hip, the Bare Naked Ladies, Leonard Cohen, etc. It also contained several songs from the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and Bob Dylan.

I should back up a bit… and explain what I mean by “painful musical experience”. Here in Sierra Leone, they love their music LOUD, often to the point of distortion. They love “digital” music created on synthesizers with heavy disco beats – repetitive drumbeats and electronic sound effects. It’s not quite disco and not quite rap. It’s not quite hip-hop and not quite pop. But, it’s incredibly popular. People love music here… and kids, young people and adults often sing, dance and gyrate unabashedly in the streets – to music videos blaring from market stalls and shops on the street.

I have to say, I’m not exactly a fan of the music here… (“cultural music aside, of course), hence my preparation of “good” music for the party. I presented the disk to the DJ – DJ Power Aziz – and asked if he’d have a listen and at some point play a selection. He dutifully listened to a few pieces and announced that while he liked some of the music, he couldn’t play anything because “no one else would like the music”.

Later that evening, after everyone had eaten and taken to the dance floor, I requested a song – “All You Need Is Love” – by the Beatles. I figured it was about as “Africa-friendly” as possible – understandable lyrics, a decent beat, memorable melody, etc. The DJ relented, after a small donation to the musical sound set, and the dance floor quickly emptied. I couldn’t believe it… so I grabbed a young girl, Yanda, the 10-year-old daughter of another neighbour, and we happily spun, twirled and “shook our money-makers” to the Beatles.

Interestingly, after Yanda and my dance (following significant ridicule for being the white guy who can’t dance) and the resumption of the (loud, distorted) heavy electronic drumbeats, I asked folks if they’d ever heard of the Beatles… NOT ONE PERSON had ever heard anything like that song or knew anything about the Beatles. And so I tried to explain – the biggest selling musical group ever – the most popular musicians ever – the biggest money-makers… all of which fell on deaf ears as did the song, “All You Need Is Love”.

My curiosity was peaked… and I asked two journalism classes at Fourah Bay College – students between 21 and 35 years – if they’d ever heard of the Beatles. One had – because they regularly listen to a BBC affiliate radio station here who sometimes play “oldies”. Thus another assignment was born – find and review a Beatles song for a local newspaper. It’ll be interesting to read their responses…

So, forty-six years after the Beatles hit the television airwaves in North America, they’ve now landed in Sierra Leone – to a warm, sunny and humid reception, hopefully. I may not be Ed Sullivan but perhaps I’ve introduced “the long and winding road”, along “Abbey Road”, “day tripping”, in a “yellow submarine”, “with a little help from my friends” and “all my loving”, hoping “we can work it out”.

Sorry, I couldn’t resist.
Stephen

Missed and Missing…

Well, I’m back in Freetown, Sierra Leone – having returned to my “second home” just a week ago following a wonderful visit back to bustling Toronto and the chilly climes of Canada. I missed the warmth and sunshine of this place… not to mention the friends and colleagues I’ve managed to connect with over my previous seven months in “sweet Salone”.

I know I’ve been remiss with my postings to this blog and my letters to friends and family in Canada. Sorry… Or, “osh-ya” in Kreole, which means, “I’m sorry. I beg of you.”

The past few months here – from about the middle of October through to the end of my original contract on December the 15th - were very hectic… to understate the obvious. I’d “hit my stride” as they say and workshops for local journalists, teaching at the university, meetings, etc. got the better of my time and limited resources. It was good, however, and I honestly felt I was having an impact, making in-roads and noticing the positive influence I was having on the state of media and human rights here in Sierra Leone. Okay… the world didn’t change. Sierra Leone journalists didn’t miraculously learn to report and write and broadcast. And much of what I was up to wasn’t easily recognized… but I noticed. I’ll try to update everyone on those “noticeables” when I get another chance.

One thing that did change was the status of Sierra Leone on both the Human Poverty Index and the Human Development Index, according to the UN… Sierra Leone was ranked last/worst… for several years. And, while I was here, sometime between July and December 2009, Sierra Leone rose to second last on those listings. Afghanistan is now worse than Sierra Leone… for obvious reasons, and I’m taking sole credit for this miraculous surge in development. (kidding)

What I wanted to write about were the things I missed about Freetown while in Canada… and there were many. Of course the first, and now ever present, sun and warmth. I’m sitting outside on the verandah, in the dark, in shorts and a tee-shirt – wiggling my toes in sandals. It’s the middle of January… and I can’t even imagine wearing a parka, scarf, boots and mittens.

I missed the street life. Here, everyone lives, works, sleeps, eats and lives their lives outside… in markets, along streets, in courtyards, on the beach, etc. It’s an outdoor culture, which makes for interesting and lively walks to and from places. Yes, I walk everywhere here… or mostly everywhere. And, I missed that. While I was in the Toronto area, I had to drive everywhere – things were so far apart and I couldn’t help notice the lack of street life and the few people venturing from car to house or shopping mall to car.

I missed the food and have now had my re-fill of rice, cassava leaves, potato leaves, palm oil, fresh and dried fish, and of course, the sting of hot African peppers in everything. It’s a wonderfully simple diet I’ve become accustomed to over these months. And, eating once a day seems to suit me just fine…

I missed the many friendly faces who greet me on almost every corner. Freetown and Sierra Leone are open places where people greet each other on the street and ask, “how are you?” at every opportunity. I haven’t managed to accept or use the standard response, “tell gawd tenk-yee” but I always smile and respond with “plenty fine and you?” The security guards in the compound and along the hillside up from my apartment greet me warmly everyday. And, the military policeman who stands at the barracks gate always waves and bows – to which I reply with a semi-Buddhist clasp of hands or thumbs-up greeting depending on what I’m carrying that day.

I missed shaking hands with everyone I see and having conversations, holding hands, with male friends as I walk down the street. I still feel a little strange about it but I’m getting used to it. I remember walking with Andrew on the boardwalk in Toronto and thinking – if I were in Freetown, we’d be holding hands…

I missed random acts of friendliness and kindness. On Friday, I got caught without Leones not having exchanged US dollars for Leones with “my Rasta man/friend, Emmanuel” on the street corner. I was walking to a meeting, very early in the morning, and my friend who runs the neighbourhood internet café, Alpha, and I struck up a conversation. He asked where I was going… and I explained my predicament. He ended up loaning me 10,000 Leone so I could get a taxi to my meeting. I was very appreciative… especially because there’s a sign in the café that reads, “credit will be available… tomorrow”.

And, my regular retailer of peppers and groundnut at the Aberdeen market – a woman I call “Sisseh” (for sister), offered to buy me my fish from another market stall because I still haven’t learned to tell a good dried barracuda from a bad one. She takes good care of me… probably because she sees me struggling sometimes to purchase and cook African dishes like groundnut stew or drinks like ginger beer. I’d hate to know what she repeats to her family and friends about this “crazy or ignorant ‘white’ man” who buys the wrong fish or too much pepper for his suppers.

I missed the wonderfully happy, smiling three-year-old girl who hangs around with her mother at the corner store at the top of my road. Hannah loves to be picked up and tickled… and is always ripe for a giggle and a hug. The other day she was wearing her blue velvetine dress she got for Cmas… and apparently hasn’t taken off since.

I missed the little eight-year-old girls, Precious and Francis, in their green school dresses, who come by my office everyday after their classes. The church across the road hosts a government school by day and these two girls drop by and I teach them to spell a new word everyday. Their teacher, Mrs. LaHaye, is even taking note of their increased spelling prowess. On Friday they brought along a five-year-old sibling who wanted to learn how to spell. I can see I’ll soon have a gaggle of kids gathering in front of the office…

I missed the beach… I haven’t had a chance to get to the luscious beaches down the coast but I’ve briefly visited Aberdeen and Lumley beach near my apartment. There’s nothing like the sound and smell of rolling oceanic waves to soothe the icicles from of my blood. I can’t wait to venture to my two favourite beaches, Lakka and Beach Two – perhaps later in the month.

I’ve missed having to hand wash my clothes, bed sheet, pillow cases, towels, etc. (NOT) Okay… that was something I could live without, for sure, and throwing a load of laundry into my mother’s chrome washing machine was incredible. But, I’m surprised how I missed having to calculate when and how to wash my clothes.

I missed the sensation of cracking open a cold beer, taking that first slug and watching the condensation bead and roll down the side of the can on a blistering hot day. I missed sweating and having to drink at least two litres of water everyday. Weirdly, I think my bladder was in shock with the change in water intake and water retention/processing while in Canada. I’m back to sweating and not urinating… Sorry, “TMI” – too much information.

Speaking of thirst – I missed the Salone thirst for books, reading materials, knowledge and questions about where I come from and what I’m doing here. Over and over again I hear, “Sierra Leoneons love strangers” and it’s true… people here are very curious and inquisitive. And, they love to talk… “tok-tok” as they say… Canadians may be friendly and slightly curious but the reservations of most Canadians took me awhile to get used to again. We are a conservative lot, despite our wish for more liberal approaches to politics, positions and people.

Other things I missed about Sierra Leone while I was in Canada…

- Sleeping without a blanket
- Sleeping under a mosquito net
- Slathering bug repellent whenever I go out at night
- Open windows
- Crowded taxis and poda-podas
- Blue skies
- Market haggling and dickering or negotiating for a cheaper price on everything from taxi rides to rice
- Lawlessness and “official guidelines” like bribes, commissions and scams
- Heat rash
- Cold showers
- Intermittent power, darkness and no internet service
- Bugs in the kitchen
- Sand on the floor and dust everywhere
- Sweaty computer keyboards
- The sounds of croaking frogs from the sewage ditch that drains down the hill on the other side of my compound wall
- My special Salone friends; Mary, Sputnik, Elvis, Momoh, Lylla, Sulak, Arthur, and my landlords, Mala and Kishen, among many others.

And, now that I’m back in “sweet Salone” I miss certain things about Canada. But, those will have to wait for another blog-thing… and I promise I won’t wait too long.

Yours,
S/