‘Tis the season…

I’ve asked around… and there has never been snow in Freetown. There has never been a Cmas Eve visit down a chimney from the Coca-Cola version of Santa Claus. There are no reindeer. No pond or side street has ever frozen over for an impromptu game of hockey. There’s no ice on the streets – except in the freezers of Freetown’s supermarkets. No one’s shovelling his or her driveways. No one has to scrape the windows of their cars in the morning. The airport has never been “snowed-in”. I don’t see houses decorated with Cmas lights. And, the idea of a snowman is a distant “Hollywood-style” movie recollection…

Sierra Leone is an interesting place to be for the holidays. People are excited… and the mood on the street has definitely changed. There are more people around – those that arrived from the UK or the US before they shut Heathrow and family from the provinces who’ve come to visit relatives in the big city. There’s more traffic. There are more trader stalls on the roads – adding to the congestion, of course. The many Christian churches have ramped up their services. “The Church of the Flaming Battleaxe Evangelical Prophetic Bible Word of the Risen God” (or something similar) is holding services at the National Stadium starting at midnight and running till 5:00 a.m. Shiny garlands of silver, red and gold overflow the baskets that street sellers carry on their heads. One can buy a used string of Cmas lights while sitting in one’s car or taxi from young men in shorts and t-shirts. And, I even saw a Cmas pudding for sale in one of the markets… (“best before” date – sometime in 2009, which might be dangerous)

There isn’t the mass hysteria of shopping, running around picking up last minute gifts, pressure, consumerism, stress, etc. And, I didn’t hear my first Cmas carol till well into December. Right now… three days before Cmas, I can listen to school-age children singing carols in the church around the corner from my apartment. I watch the parade of decorated, honking cars gliding through traffic signalling another wedding ceremony. I smile when a market woman wishes me “season’s greetings”. I’ve attended the first ever SLBC Winter Carnival. And, I enjoy a very bad brass band (think grade seven band class) tinker and blast their way through a rendition of “O Come All Ye Faithful” as they stroll from house to house in my neighbourhood.

I’ve been asking around about Sierra Leonean Cmas traditions… and it seems there are a few. The first response to my informal survey, of course, is the idea of spending time with family. Cmas day is about staying at home, eating jollof rice, pepper soup and maybe some fish or chicken if one can afford it. Many people will watch movies – available from the copyright pirates on the streets. And, most people will rest…

It seems some tribes also have different traditions. My Krio friends, for example, will visit with large extended families on Boxing Day. Some of my Mende friends will do a project together like adding blocks to a building, painting gates or renovating a compound wall. And many of my Temne friends will travel to their villages in the provinces taking provisions and supplies that aren’t otherwise available.

Interestingly, I’ve been given a number of Cmas cards… with pictures of snow-covered, evergreen trees, Santa Claus, Cmas wreaths and even one with a decorated Cmas tree in front of a fireplace surrounded by presents. I can’t help but think these are Hallmark hand-me-downs or dollar store cast offs. Of course, the poetic, religious verses and ever-present references to “persperidy, famelee and gud helth” are always “interesting” to read.

The tribe of ex-pats, development workers, UN staff, and NGO folks have generally ducked out of the country returning to their homes in the UK, US, or Europe for Cmas. Flights, when they could get out of London and in to/out of Sierra Leone were fully booked… and the airport and helipad were abuzz with English-speaking, “pink” people.

I miss some things about our Canadian Cmas season… the snow, seeing my breath as I dash between the heated house to a frigid car, watching “Grapes/Cherry” on Hockey Night in Canada, the decorations, visiting and sharing dinner with friends, a snowfall at night under a full moon, warm fires in a stone fireplace and family, of course. What I’ll miss most on Cmas day is the traditional turkey dinner – with mashed sweet potato, gravy, green beans and Brussels sprouts… Mom’s dinners were always outstanding.

While I’m missing some things… I’m learning about and living with so many others. Sierra Leone is a very friendly, open and invigorating place to be – despite the lack of hockey, maple syrup, ice-covered lakes, snowy lanes and parkas. This Cmas season will feature hot pepper soup, cassava leaf stew, rice, rest and some time with good friends. What more could a guy hope for – for Cmas?

Merry Cmas to all and to all a good night...
Yours
S/