I’ve asked around… and there has never been snow in Freetown. There has never been a Cmas Eve visit down a chimney from the Coca-Cola version of Santa Claus. There are no reindeer. No pond or side street has ever frozen over for an impromptu game of hockey. There’s no ice on the streets – except in the freezers of Freetown’s supermarkets. No one’s shovelling his or her driveways. No one has to scrape the windows of their cars in the morning. The airport has never been “snowed-in”. I don’t see houses decorated with Cmas lights. And, the idea of a snowman is a distant “Hollywood-style” movie recollection…
Sierra Leone is an interesting place to be for the holidays. People are excited… and the mood on the street has definitely changed. There are more people around – those that arrived from the UK or the US before they shut Heathrow and family from the provinces who’ve come to visit relatives in the big city. There’s more traffic. There are more trader stalls on the roads – adding to the congestion, of course. The many Christian churches have ramped up their services. “The Church of the Flaming Battleaxe Evangelical Prophetic Bible Word of the Risen God” (or something similar) is holding services at the National Stadium starting at midnight and running till 5:00 a.m. Shiny garlands of silver, red and gold overflow the baskets that street sellers carry on their heads. One can buy a used string of Cmas lights while sitting in one’s car or taxi from young men in shorts and t-shirts. And, I even saw a Cmas pudding for sale in one of the markets… (“best before” date – sometime in 2009, which might be dangerous)
There isn’t the mass hysteria of shopping, running around picking up last minute gifts, pressure, consumerism, stress, etc. And, I didn’t hear my first Cmas carol till well into December. Right now… three days before Cmas, I can listen to school-age children singing carols in the church around the corner from my apartment. I watch the parade of decorated, honking cars gliding through traffic signalling another wedding ceremony. I smile when a market woman wishes me “season’s greetings”. I’ve attended the first ever SLBC Winter Carnival. And, I enjoy a very bad brass band (think grade seven band class) tinker and blast their way through a rendition of “O Come All Ye Faithful” as they stroll from house to house in my neighbourhood.
I’ve been asking around about Sierra Leonean Cmas traditions… and it seems there are a few. The first response to my informal survey, of course, is the idea of spending time with family. Cmas day is about staying at home, eating jollof rice, pepper soup and maybe some fish or chicken if one can afford it. Many people will watch movies – available from the copyright pirates on the streets. And, most people will rest…
It seems some tribes also have different traditions. My Krio friends, for example, will visit with large extended families on Boxing Day. Some of my Mende friends will do a project together like adding blocks to a building, painting gates or renovating a compound wall. And many of my Temne friends will travel to their villages in the provinces taking provisions and supplies that aren’t otherwise available.
Interestingly, I’ve been given a number of Cmas cards… with pictures of snow-covered, evergreen trees, Santa Claus, Cmas wreaths and even one with a decorated Cmas tree in front of a fireplace surrounded by presents. I can’t help but think these are Hallmark hand-me-downs or dollar store cast offs. Of course, the poetic, religious verses and ever-present references to “persperidy, famelee and gud helth” are always “interesting” to read.
The tribe of ex-pats, development workers, UN staff, and NGO folks have generally ducked out of the country returning to their homes in the UK, US, or Europe for Cmas. Flights, when they could get out of London and in to/out of Sierra Leone were fully booked… and the airport and helipad were abuzz with English-speaking, “pink” people.
I miss some things about our Canadian Cmas season… the snow, seeing my breath as I dash between the heated house to a frigid car, watching “Grapes/Cherry” on Hockey Night in Canada, the decorations, visiting and sharing dinner with friends, a snowfall at night under a full moon, warm fires in a stone fireplace and family, of course. What I’ll miss most on Cmas day is the traditional turkey dinner – with mashed sweet potato, gravy, green beans and Brussels sprouts… Mom’s dinners were always outstanding.
While I’m missing some things… I’m learning about and living with so many others. Sierra Leone is a very friendly, open and invigorating place to be – despite the lack of hockey, maple syrup, ice-covered lakes, snowy lanes and parkas. This Cmas season will feature hot pepper soup, cassava leaf stew, rice, rest and some time with good friends. What more could a guy hope for – for Cmas?
Merry Cmas to all and to all a good night...
Yours
S/
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Greetings...
Hello folks... Sorry for the disappearing act. I've been busy - to understate the obvious. Things in Sierra Leone are still pretty crazy, fascinating, frustrating awesome and sometimes just plain unimaginable.
But, I'm still here... and still trying my best. You'll notice a couple - three new posts, which I'll direct you to - down there on the right. I'll continue to update things - when I can, if I can, however I can... depending on...
Hope all's well,
I remain your humble servant,
S/
But, I'm still here... and still trying my best. You'll notice a couple - three new posts, which I'll direct you to - down there on the right. I'll continue to update things - when I can, if I can, however I can... depending on...
Hope all's well,
I remain your humble servant,
S/
On public service broadcasting...
Public broadcasters encourage access to and participation in all aspects of public life. They develop knowledge, broaden horizons and enable people to better understand themselves by better understanding the world and others.
Public service broadcasting is a meeting place – where all citizens are welcome and considered equals. It is an information and education tool, accessible to all and meant for all, whatever their social or economic status. Public service broadcasting ensures the public’s right to receive a wide diversity of independent and non-partisan information and ideas. Its mandate is to promote information exchanges and cultural development. It can also help to promote a sense of national identity, foster democratic and other important social values and serve the needs of minority and other specialized interest groups. Public broadcasting must also appeal to the imagination, and entertain. And it does so with the utmost concern for quality broadcasting.
The challenge for the public service broadcaster is to place the audience at the centre of its universe. The audience comes first. This includes believing and trusting in the audience. It means engaging with the audience through different programs but also engaging in direct dialogue with them, being close to their minds and hearts, knowing their priorities, helping them understand the decisions that are made and defending their right to information.
There’s no single international standard or set of guidelines when it comes to public service broadcasting but at least six characteristics have emerged over the years.
1. Universality – services are available and accessible to the entire population in terms of content (languages) and technology, be it radio or television.
2. Diversity – offering a broad program range providing a consistent level of technical and editorial quality that’s educational and informative. Diversity in programming ensures that the public has access to information about a wide variety of issues and concerns.
3. Independence from both the State and commercial interests - programming decisions should be made on the basis of professional criteria, news value and the public’s right to know, rather than by pressure from political or commercial interests.
4. Impartiality of programs - Impartiality is closely related to independence. A public service broadcaster does not promote a certain position or support a particular political party. Exceptions to this impartiality guideline are made on important development issues such as health, education, security and democratic principles.
5. Concern for national identity and culture – in part, the role of public service broadcasters is to build a sense of national identity, belonging and participation. All cultures, past and present, tribes and ethnicities should be reflected in the multicultural nature of broadcasting in Sierra Leone.
6. Financed directly by the public – public service broadcasters must maintain their independence and focus on the public interest. Funding must be public and not tied to editorial decisions or political persuasions. Public broadcasters must be open, transparent and accountable.
Public service broadcasters should also be setting standards – offering a higher standard of journalism, production, programming and editorial content, which contributes to media development throughout the community.
There are some clear and succinct ideas, which can be made about public service broadcasting:
- It is for everyone
- It has a cultural value
- It guarantees a fuller choice
- It serves citizens not shareholders
- Its character is reflected in comprehensive schedules, not in individual programs
- It reflects and supports democracy.
Thus, the programming schedules of a public broadcaster must have:
- news, which is independent, comprehensive and authoritative
- a commitment to current affairs and investigative programming
- a range of documentary programs
- drama which reflects the reality of life in the community
- entertainment which also reflects the reality and interests of people
- sport, as an important part of the cultural expression of the people
- programming for children, recognizing their particular needs and concerns
- educational content
- material which reflects the differences of urban and rural life and addresses regional distinctiveness
- acknowledgement of the traditions and beliefs of the audience
- recognition and active reflection of the language traditions among the people
Out with the old and in with the new…
The “rescue team” of thirty-five active, young volunteers – men and women – clambered out of the poda-podas (converted mini-vans) sporting white t-shirts reading “Support SLBC” early on Saturday morning (October 16th). Armed with brooms, dustpans, shovels and enthusiasm, their tools were put to good use in SLBC’s first ever “clean-and-tidy”. And, this “big sweep” was long overdue.
Gbanabom Hollowell, SLBC’s Director General, organized a cleaning tour de force with local NGO “Big Brotha/Big Sista” to unload, unpack, route out and sweep, tidy and get-rid-of the years of accumulated junk that has laid dormant for up to thirty years in the hallowed halls, unused store rooms, dilapidated studios and crowded offices of SLBC.
The dust flew. Unused, locked doors were burst open. Dark, dilapidated darkrooms were flooded with light. Years of decay were peeled back… revealing hundreds of broken televisions, fractured freezers, scrapped tech-junk, speakers with missing parts, crates, equipment shells, broken cameras, inoperative mixers, failed wiring and tons of scrap… junk… clutter… garbage… litter and waste!
It’s a new era at SLBC. This clean up will hopefully symbolize a newfound attitude. SLBC will no longer be a depository for waste and stale thinking. It’s time for freshness – in thinking, programming, staffing, journalism and professionalism. Out with the old and in with the new…
“Elvis is in the building…” Welcome Gbanabom!
Gbanabom (Elvis) Hallowell was officially welcomed to the fold at SLBC as the new, permanent, Board approved, presidentially appointed Director General on October 1, 2010. After months of application forms, interviews, “politicking”, review committees and appointment processes, Gbanabom’s presence is a very welcome sign that things are moving forward in the transition of state-owned SLBS to the public broadcaster SLBC. Signs of progress can be few and far between but this giant step is hugely significant.
Gbanabom is a Sierra Leonean with many years experience in the media. He’s a writer, poet, musician, activist, lecturer and political commentator. He’s been around the block, as they say. He’s lead NGOs, social movements, activist organizations and human rights groups. He’s very well known throughout the country and comes from a long line of teachers and commentators.
Gbanabom started his educational career here in Sierra Leone, moved to the U.S. to pursue degrees and masters programs and now he’s a PhD candidate. He’s written at least two books that I know of… and so many newspaper columns I’ve lost count. He’s taught thousands of students and continues to give public lectures on leadership, development and the media in Sierra Leone. He’s politically astute. He’s genuine. He’s smart. And, he’s very well connected.
I should add that Gbanabom is my former boss at JHR-Journalists for Human Rights and I consider him to be a good friend. His new job won’t be easy… and there will be significant challenges. But, I’m very pleased to be working alongside him once again.
Monday, June 14, 2010
Content is king...
Knight Fellowship Blog - Number One
Content is still king...
They (the techie-geeks and widget-wacks) talk about the internet being “in the clouds” but really the words and pictures we put online/out-there are as immoveable as stone. They will last. They will outlive us. People far-and-wide will read them. Societies will be affected by them… and they will make a difference.
From words carved in stone to papyrus scrolls and then to moveable type, words and pictures have travelled and evolved. What remains is the fact that what we – as journalists and now as Knight International Journalism Fellows – produce will bring substantial impact to our respective host countries. Think of cave paintings in South Africa… Think of sacred scrolls from the Nile River area… They still exist! Why, because content is king – what we write or broadcast is the most important piece of this communications evolution. How we disseminate our material is almost immaterial.
In 2010, we can uplink, upload/download, e-send, e-think and transmit faster than the blink of an eye – in some parts of the world. Egypt, Malaysia and possibly Peru come to mind. Sierra Leone, Malawi and Haiti are different stories.
In Sierra Leone, a neighbourhood blackboard listing headlines of the day is one way of transmitting information. Mobile phone calls between family members tell stories of success and sickness. Battery-powered radios are gathering points for political debate. Internet cafés (when they work) are hubs for Diaspora and distant family connections.
The integral element of any communication whether electronic or analogue is what the message contains and the relationship between sender and receiver.
The 2010 Knight International Journalism Fellows, whether via satellite, e-communications, radio waves or newsprint, are bringing the world together – one story at a time. This will make a difference – just as the stone tablet and parchment collections did thousands of years ago.
Content is still king...
They (the techie-geeks and widget-wacks) talk about the internet being “in the clouds” but really the words and pictures we put online/out-there are as immoveable as stone. They will last. They will outlive us. People far-and-wide will read them. Societies will be affected by them… and they will make a difference.
From words carved in stone to papyrus scrolls and then to moveable type, words and pictures have travelled and evolved. What remains is the fact that what we – as journalists and now as Knight International Journalism Fellows – produce will bring substantial impact to our respective host countries. Think of cave paintings in South Africa… Think of sacred scrolls from the Nile River area… They still exist! Why, because content is king – what we write or broadcast is the most important piece of this communications evolution. How we disseminate our material is almost immaterial.
In 2010, we can uplink, upload/download, e-send, e-think and transmit faster than the blink of an eye – in some parts of the world. Egypt, Malaysia and possibly Peru come to mind. Sierra Leone, Malawi and Haiti are different stories.
In Sierra Leone, a neighbourhood blackboard listing headlines of the day is one way of transmitting information. Mobile phone calls between family members tell stories of success and sickness. Battery-powered radios are gathering points for political debate. Internet cafés (when they work) are hubs for Diaspora and distant family connections.
The integral element of any communication whether electronic or analogue is what the message contains and the relationship between sender and receiver.
The 2010 Knight International Journalism Fellows, whether via satellite, e-communications, radio waves or newsprint, are bringing the world together – one story at a time. This will make a difference – just as the stone tablet and parchment collections did thousands of years ago.
Friday, May 28, 2010
The passion of politics...
Student elections here at Fourah Bay College, University of Sierra Leone (where I teach part-time) have once again turned violent. Two years ago was bad... last year was relatively "okay" but this year it's bad - again.
Last night, at the presentation of candidate manifestos, things were passionate and heated between the "white camp" (supported by the national APC party) and the "black camp" (supported by the national opposition SLPP). Fights were intermixed with dancing, shouting, posturing and promoting.
Today, voting day, things are riotous. Election results haven't been announced but the passion has erupted into violence and riots. Students are on the rampage... and I'm very worried about "my" great group of students who are trapped behind riot police lines and barricades. I have my fingers crossed... and will venture onto the campus in the morning... Good grief - the face of young politics can be ugly.
Politics is everywhere... for good and for bad.
S/
Last night, at the presentation of candidate manifestos, things were passionate and heated between the "white camp" (supported by the national APC party) and the "black camp" (supported by the national opposition SLPP). Fights were intermixed with dancing, shouting, posturing and promoting.
Today, voting day, things are riotous. Election results haven't been announced but the passion has erupted into violence and riots. Students are on the rampage... and I'm very worried about "my" great group of students who are trapped behind riot police lines and barricades. I have my fingers crossed... and will venture onto the campus in the morning... Good grief - the face of young politics can be ugly.
Politics is everywhere... for good and for bad.
S/
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Good news...
I might as well announce it now… It looks like I’ll be staying in Freetown, Sierra Leone for the next year to 18 months as a Knight Fellow – on a journalism fellowship out of the International Center for Journalism in Washington… Yes, very prestigious… and I’m so pleased. I’ll be working with the transition of SLBS (state-owned broadcaster) to SL Broadcasting Corporation – a public broadcaster. I’ll help through the 50th anniversary of Sierra Leone’s independence in 2011 and hopefully through the next general election in 2012. It’s a tremendous opportunity to be involved in a historic, never-before-done project in Africa. Should be “interesting”…
I'd applied to the Knight Fellowship program waaayyyy back in August 2009 and am just now seeing some fruits to that labour or results from that application.
This is from their website…
The Knight International Journalism Fellowships make tangible changes that improve the quality and free flow of news in the public interest around the world. Funded by the John S. and James L. Knight Foundation, international media professionals work in countries where there are opportunities to promote reliable, insightful journalism that holds officials accountable. Knight Fellows are establishing new journalism associations, launching journalism schools, creating online databases to track corruption, establishing news delivery services via cell phone and creating digital platforms to share content. With funding from the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, Knight Fellows are developing a corps of journalists in Sub-Saharan Africa whose work is leading to better public policies and a better quality of life. The program’s Health Journalism Fellowships help media in five countries produce in-depth and investigative coverage of health issues such as malaria, HIV/AIDS and tuberculosis. The new Africa Development Journalism Fellows will work with journalists in four countries to give them skills to report on poverty-related issues such as agriculture, rural development, sanitation and microfinance.
Some other background:
I've been in sporadic contact with the Knight Fellowship folks over the intervening months as my work with jhr- journalists for human rights, and on the transition from the state-owned SLBS to a public broadcast corporation has progressed. It's obviously taken many months and hours of work to get the process to this stage - meaning the government of Sierra Leone has passed the Bill to create the broadcasting corporation, a Board of Directors has been nominated (the Chair appointed by the President), some UN consultations and funding proposals created, technical consultations, etc. etc.
We (a whole bunch of folks from the UN, BBC, Fondation Hirondelle, DW in Germany, etc.) finally have a plan, which should be finalized with UN Radio, SLBC, the government, etc. in mid-June. That "plan" will be the basis for the re-structuring and funding proposals which will go to the IMF, World Bank, Peace-Building Fund of the UN, etc.
In this plan, a position of "training director" or "training facilitator" was created... to help coordinate technical, managerial, board, editorial, corporate and public training... everything from classroom programs to teach basic typing skills to mentorship models for journalists in the field. It's a very big and important position in which I'd coordinate trainers, programs, etc. and also do hands-on training. I'd also be developing policies for the corporation around production values, ethical principles, codes of conduct, and so on.
The new broadcasting corporation, with the transition management team, wants someone with independence yet with inside knowledge of the field, the media environment in Sierra Leone, the people, the politics, etc. And, that's where the Knight Fellowship comes in... I'd be able to maintain financial, political and editorial independence because the International Center for Journalism/Knight Foundation would be paying my salary and expenses. The training position would be for a year or more... with the plan to create a sustainable foundation/policies to the training of staff, Board, etc. In other words, I'd be creating the policies and then mentoring someone in the personnel dept. to take on this role.
I'm really looking forward to this work... not just for the prestige of working with the Knight folks but also because I firmly believe in this project. It's huge... going from "state-owned" (think dictatorial USSR or communist china) to public broadcaster - (think CBC and BBC). And, it's "history in the making" - literally. Quite exciting, I’m sure you’d agree.
So, there's lots going on... and huge opportunities afoot.
I'm hoping to pass through Toronto on my way to Washington for an orientation week with the International Center for Journalism but I don't have exact dates or plans yet... They'll come shortly and I'll be in touch.
Wow... this is exciting.
More later,
Stephen
I'd applied to the Knight Fellowship program waaayyyy back in August 2009 and am just now seeing some fruits to that labour or results from that application.
This is from their website…
The Knight International Journalism Fellowships make tangible changes that improve the quality and free flow of news in the public interest around the world. Funded by the John S. and James L. Knight Foundation
Some other background:
I've been in sporadic contact with the Knight Fellowship folks over the intervening months as my work with jhr- journalists for human rights, and on the transition from the state-owned SLBS to a public broadcast corporation has progressed. It's obviously taken many months and hours of work to get the process to this stage - meaning the government of Sierra Leone has passed the Bill to create the broadcasting corporation, a Board of Directors has been nominated (the Chair appointed by the President), some UN consultations and funding proposals created, technical consultations, etc. etc.
We (a whole bunch of folks from the UN, BBC, Fondation Hirondelle, DW in Germany, etc.) finally have a plan, which should be finalized with UN Radio, SLBC, the government, etc. in mid-June. That "plan" will be the basis for the re-structuring and funding proposals which will go to the IMF, World Bank, Peace-Building Fund of the UN, etc.
In this plan, a position of "training director" or "training facilitator" was created... to help coordinate technical, managerial, board, editorial, corporate and public training... everything from classroom programs to teach basic typing skills to mentorship models for journalists in the field. It's a very big and important position in which I'd coordinate trainers, programs, etc. and also do hands-on training. I'd also be developing policies for the corporation around production values, ethical principles, codes of conduct, and so on.
The new broadcasting corporation, with the transition management team, wants someone with independence yet with inside knowledge of the field, the media environment in Sierra Leone, the people, the politics, etc. And, that's where the Knight Fellowship comes in... I'd be able to maintain financial, political and editorial independence because the International Center for Journalism/Knight Foundation would be paying my salary and expenses. The training position would be for a year or more... with the plan to create a sustainable foundation/policies to the training of staff, Board, etc. In other words, I'd be creating the policies and then mentoring someone in the personnel dept. to take on this role.
I'm really looking forward to this work... not just for the prestige of working with the Knight folks but also because I firmly believe in this project. It's huge... going from "state-owned" (think dictatorial USSR or communist china) to public broadcaster - (think CBC and BBC). And, it's "history in the making" - literally. Quite exciting, I’m sure you’d agree.
So, there's lots going on... and huge opportunities afoot.
I'm hoping to pass through Toronto on my way to Washington for an orientation week with the International Center for Journalism but I don't have exact dates or plans yet... They'll come shortly and I'll be in touch.
Wow... this is exciting.
More later,
Stephen
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
One Year
What strikes me first are the significant changes I’ve gone through on a personal level. Yes, you can teach an old dog new tricks… and I’m certainly still learning. That’s good… I’ve learned to be more patient, more resilient, more assertive, more direct, more in control – while at the same time feeling out of control most of the time. I’ve learned to see the world in a slightly different way. I’m positive… about a lot of things. I’m sure of several things I wasn’t sure of before. And, I’m directing things I wasn’t directing before… Perhaps it’s confidence. Perhaps it’s maturity... although I think I still have a lot of growing up left to do.
A year ago, I came to Sierra Leone as a facilitator/journalist to work with local reporters and media development folks on human rights awareness issues. I’m still doing that – now as Country Director. I still consider myself a journalist although I’m a “non-practicing/teaching” journalist. My circle of friends has changed. My connections to the world have changed. My living arrangements have changed significantly. And, it’s true… change is sometimes a good thing.
My life is almost completely different than it was a year ago. I won’t bore you with the comparisons… but rather I’d like to reflect on things as they are now.
I sleep under a mosquito net… sweating into pillows of chewed foam salvaged from the insides of discarded car seats. It’s “recycling” to the max yet when it’s a necessity it’s called “making due or making a living”. Everything is well-used, used again and then recycled into something else. I covet power… especially when I can turn on a fan and sleep in the breeze of circling blades.
I still have my morning cup of coffee but it’s now Nescafe instant with powdered milk. I wake at 6:00 a.m. and sit outside on the verandah watching the sunrise through the coconut trees and palm leaves in my fenced, razor-wired and glass shard-topped courtyard. I shower in cold water, or sometimes rely on bucket-baths, which isn’t so bad when the temperature hits 90 degrees by 7:00 a.m. I use a strong anti-bacterial soap… because even minor infections here can be deadly, as I’ve recently learned.
My days are varied – sometimes I’m teaching at Fourah Bay College, formerly the “Athens of West Africa” and now a long, long way from being the “Athens of anything”. It’s disheartening but also incredibly rewarding… influencing the next generation of reporters and journalists before they develop the predominant bad habits of those “downtown” media folks. I use chalkboards and white boards while students sit in dilapidated desks and chairs without backs. And today… we had to close the windows because the rain came so hard – and loud. Gotta love “higher” education in Sierra Leone.
I climb the stairs and hill out of my Freetown “oasis” to catch an okada (motorcycle taxi) at the junction of Aberdeen Road and Kosy Williams Dr. where I can also get “diamonds” (little hard candies) or a dried fish and gravy sandwich from a woman named Boah. My regular bike-rider’s name is Mohamed and he’s a very young guy who shows up precisely in time to usher me through traffic to work on time or class on time. I’ve acquired a reputation here as the “white-okada-rider in the African dress” – no, not literally a dress… but I regularly wear African suits – long shirts down to my knees and matching pants.
I have to say, I’ve made progress on my attempts at institutionalizing punctuality. Most folks rely on “BMT” or “black man’s time” which can be either ten minutes or three hours late. It’s a very common term/condition around here and it’s frustrating to this punctually-compulsive Canadian. The problem is… I never know when I can be late… When I’m in charge – lecturing or leading a workshop – I’m on time – and my students know this… and make every attempt to be in class when I start. But, when I’m a participant, I have to gauge what the event is, who’s running it, who’ll be there, etc. For example… if it’s a local event – I can be an hour late. If it’s an event hosted by the BBC or the UN, I can be ten minutes to a half hour late.
I was invited to a wedding reception recently and the invitation said, “Reception, arrival of bride and groom – 7:30 p.m.” Well, not gauging time and not understanding the tradition, I was there at 7:30 – only to wait till 10:00 p.m., when I couldn’t stay awake any longer… and headed home. I trust the reception went on at some point… and hopefully people showed up. When I left there were only about 10% of the guests sitting at long, lonely tables – wondering if or when we could crack open the bottles of wine.
Riding an okada is an interesting experience… we’re often on the “wrong” side of the road – the faded, sometimes non-existent lines are merely guidelines… Or we’re zipping between lanes of traffic – one coming towards me and the other travelling in the same direction – but usually at a standstill because the roads are so congested. I’ve taken to reading the fronts of the approaching poda-podas – minivans crammed to the rafters with people, chickens, fish, charcoal, etc. The poda drivers are very creative when it comes to painted slogans… and I have to smile as “John 3:16” or “Allah be Prazed” comes barrelling towards me. My thinking is I’ll never end up a hood ornament on a poda-poda with “God is the lit”, “Praze Allah”, “Shine the lite” painted on the front hood.
Okadas are the quickest, riskiest and most exposed form of transport around… but they are essential to the transportation community. Without them, the roads would be even more congested… and it would literally take me 1.5 hours in a taxi to get to the office where it takes me 20 minutes on the back of a bike. Of course the rains will dampen my okada-spirits significantly… and I’ll have to resort to a crowded, steamy, shitty little taxi when it’s pouring with rain.
It’s true what they say about “sweet Salone”… the people are incredibly friendly. I’ve been welcomed into people’s homes, lives, workplaces and families. It’s remarkable how willing most Sierra Leoneans are to share their lives. I’ve met some wonderful local folks… Elvis, for sure, our initial contact with everything Sierra Leonean – a very good man who knows everyone who’s anyone. Momoh, who works in the JHR office and continues to amaze me with his stamina for my frustration and wonderment at passing parades, the VP who’s motorcade zips by, the prisoners transported to the courts and back to Pademba Road prison, and other mundane things that happen in front of the jhr office. My landlords, Mala and Kishen, who welcomed three wayward journalists off the street a year ago, into their compound… although I’m still waiting (6 months now) for them to fix the mini-fridge. They are lovely people and upon Kishen’s return from a recent business trip, he surprised me with a gift set of “smelly stuff” – shower gel and a spray-thing of perfume. Guess I don’t smell too good lately… and he’s trying to help.
I arrived in Freetown with four others… trainers and journalists from Canada, the U.K. and from India. It was a pleasure getting to know these brilliant, talented, hard-working and enthusiastic folks. Yes, I became a bit of a “father-figure” to the group but it was all very good… Staying out late with Jordan, “the popular guy”. Commiserating with Chris-Bo over stomach issues and malaria. Talking photography and journalism with Allison. Trying to keep up to Sulak and her busy life. It was good… and although a couple of folks had to leave early, it was still a great experience. I’m thankful to the group for supporting and for being here.
People come and go in Sierra Leone – UN missions change, NGOs recruit and young people leave for greener pastures, contracts end, contracts begin, etc. etc. And, with this successive turnover of folks around here I’ve had a number of other roomies with whom I’ve become close friends. Lyla, Greg, Leah and Collin, Paul and Caroline, et al are wonderful people… whom I’m lucky to have gotten to know.
Yes, my life is almost totally different than it was a year ago…
· I eat rice everyday – sometimes twice a day
· Cassava leaf, potato leaf and groundnuts are my staples
· Mango season is a celebration of juicy, ripe, delicious fruits
· Nescafe I can live without… but can’t live without…
· Fish – from giant barracuda to snapper to “minas”
· Buying lunch from a bowl on the street from a dubious “chop shop”
· Loud distorted music from “sets”
· Star beer… locally brewed and dangerous after two
· African peppers… enough to kill parasites, tingle the tongue and feel the next day
· Powdered milk – where are the cows?
· Buying provisions from Aminata and the Aberdeen market
· Street stalls that sell everything from air fresheners to steering wheel covers
· Beer and “burgers” (so-called) at Roy’s Beach Bar – close enough to the Atlantic to taste the salt water.
· Watching Premier League “football” at Alex’s Sports bar – or at a shack in my neighbourhood
· Malaria – and learning to become a mosquito hunter
· Mould on everything during the rainy season
· Police who openly and actively take bribes at almost every street corner
· International phone calls that won’t go through or can’t come in
· Struggling with hand-washing laundry
· Politics in everything… if it’s not political – it’s not news and not life
· Generators that don’t work… and inferior products dumped into Africa
· “Jonx” or second-hand goods from the west – thank you Value Village and Sally Ann
· Heat rash – sweating – carrying a towel at all times – fans…
· Tan lines
· No sweets – no twix bars or snickers bars
· In your face religion
· Horrible journalism
· Paperwork
· The UN – UNDP – UNPBF – UNIFEM – UNICEF, et al
· Beaches and oceans…
Life is different… and the biggest adjustment of all – unreliable power and SLOOOWWW internet connections.
I’ve written blogs, reports, financial statements, letters, grant proposals, protest letters, journal entries and even the odd recommendation letter. It’s been an “interesting” year… and there’s more to come.
Never too old to learn a new trick or two… and I’ve learned a lot this past year. Thanks for coming along with me…
S/
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Independence Day - April 27, 2010
Sierra Leone celebrated it's 49th anniversary of independence from "our colonial masters", the British, on Tuesday, April 27, 2010. A national holiday... and a day of celebration, rumination and anticipation. The word on the streets - and from the President himself - "Wait. Things are getting better."
I spent the day at the National Stadium photographing events for the Ministry of Tourism - in preparation for the big 50th anniversary planned for 2011. Here, President Ernest Bai Koroma, inspects troops on the field of the stadium.
Later that day, the stadium cleared in preparations for a live concert featuring Akon, a Senegalese hip-hop performer now living large in the U.S. Of course, it rained... and after sitting for hours, soaking wet in the stands, I went home... but did get to the concert the following afternoon.
Akon was followed by several local performers who danced, lip-synced and gyrated around the stage to the delight of thousands... An event like this is rare - and so is the opportunity to celebrate something positive in Sierra Leone. It was good to see...
Still hopeful... and still working hard.
Yours,
Stephen
I spent the day at the National Stadium photographing events for the Ministry of Tourism - in preparation for the big 50th anniversary planned for 2011. Here, President Ernest Bai Koroma, inspects troops on the field of the stadium.
Later that day, the stadium cleared in preparations for a live concert featuring Akon, a Senegalese hip-hop performer now living large in the U.S. Of course, it rained... and after sitting for hours, soaking wet in the stands, I went home... but did get to the concert the following afternoon.
Akon was followed by several local performers who danced, lip-synced and gyrated around the stage to the delight of thousands... An event like this is rare - and so is the opportunity to celebrate something positive in Sierra Leone. It was good to see...
Still hopeful... and still working hard.
Yours,
Stephen
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Maclean’s Missives
Sometimes word from “home” is so nice… E-mail letters are what keep me going here in Freetown. News, gossip, family updates, weather reports, etc. are welcome reminders of who’s who, what’s up and where’s where.
Imagine my surprise when a magazine-seller approached me in Crown Bakery, one of the most “western” retreats in the city, and held aloft a copy of Maclean’s magazine – the March 29th issue, no less. And, according to the cover, this one was a “Spring Double Issue”. Mr. Magazine-seller knows I’m Canadian and knows how I love to devour magazines. A “double-whammy” for him and a sure sale. Not even the depiction of a plaintive, bleeding Christ figure detoured me. And neither did the bare-all Martha Stewart book review highlighted at the top of the cover. Both things, I might add, that would usually turn my stomach.
I regularly buy “Focus on Africa” and “Africa Report” both published by U.K. companies. I sometimes buy “Newsweek” – usually two-three weeks out of date. And, I occasionally stumble across old issues of the “Economist” – a real treat. The local magazines, “Newday” and “SierraEye” are so bad… I end up regretting the small purchase price. I buy them to support the industry and quickly pass them along to word-hungry security guards or Class Six Secondary School students who are desperate for reading materials.
This issue of Maclean’s was only a week out of date… and bore the subscriber’s address as Leaside Park Dr., Toronto. I didn’t ask who or how or when… but quickly scratched together the 10,000Le he wanted and stashed the magazine into my briefcase… careful not to fold the cover, tear a page or wrinkle the binding.
I was going to savour this one… I was going to devour it’s contents over time… usually late at night, reading by the light of my headlamp, sitting under my mosquito netting, sweating and salivating over my deliciously Canadian magazine sweet-treat.
A week or so after my purchase, the magazine is wrinkled, folded, dog-eared, thumbed and fingered… and barely hanging together.
I think I read every word… even the ads, something I wouldn’t normally do. I read with compassion the story of Bernice Packford, who thinks she’s had enough of this life. I caught the controversy over the women’s and men’s Olympic coverage on the letters to the editor/mailbag pages. To Loblaws, Sobey’s, IGA, Foodland, etc. – isn’t it obvious that the price of a plastic grocery bag should be $1.00 – universally applied? That’s the only way to “encourage” environmentalism – via the pocketbook.
Is it really “good news” that Margaret Atwood sang? And, why should we care what she does with Olivia Newton-John? It certainly is “bad news” that Pringles was pulled off the shelves for suspected salmonella contamination. Interestingly, we can buy Pringles here – usually stale-dated, and I’m pretty sure those “maybe contaminated” tubes of tubers will wind up on store shelves here in West Africa.
I was shocked by Linda Frum’s article on the trouble at “Rights and Democracy”, “Canada’s publicly funded human rights organization”. What did she say? Eleven million dollars? Good gawd. I work with a human rights/media development organization and I’ve never seen the kind of money she talks about… Millions? Tens of thousands? Hundreds of thousands? Yeah right… Here I sit in Freetown, which would surely qualify as a “most deserving region of the world” and I’ve yet to see the kind of money Frum mentions for conferences, discretionary funds, managerial laptops or administration. Let me guess… of the eleven million dollar budget, less than 10% actually goes to those regions deemed deserving.
And, Paul Wells piece on “Harper’s Right Turn” incensed me and not just because I’m a left-leaning, slightly socialist journalist. How far right can we get? It’s a scary thought… Thanks Paul. But, it was good to see our “sacred” postal system illustrated by the likes of Andrew Tolson… who photographically captures the essence of how dire the system has become - unprofessional, lackadaisical, unresponsive and a behemoth/albatross around our necks. Time to do something about this place… the postal system, which I love so much, needs a massive upgrade in attitude and attention, in my mind.
Here I sit in post-conflict Sierra Leone… and imagine my surprise when I read about the (alleged) Liberian warlord living free and safe in Canada. Hmmm, on the diamonds from Sierra Leone perhaps? It’s a well-known fact here that the Liberian/Sierra Leonean war, through the 90s and into the millennium, was about diamonds, drugs, power and greed. And, we’re still seeing the effects. I attended the opening of the Charles Taylor trial at the Hague, via video conference at the Special Court of Sierra Leone. And, from what I learned, Taylor still controls a great deal of the wealth and power in Liberia. That’s a scary thought… but so is the notion that Canada has become a “haven” for a well-known killer and warlord. Where is Bill Horace now? Who’s investigating this further? It’s the tip of the iceberg… or, as they say here, the green snake in the grass. Time to look (carefully) deeper, in my mind.
Gay Republicans, bankrupt Greece, banning bluefin tuna, sandwiches, fashion runways, Activa yogurt and meatless Mondays were all great reads… from newsmakers to women in metal… some things I cared about deeply and others… well, no.
The Back Pages… I had to wonder who or why any reviewer much less a wily consumer would ever wade through almost 400 pages of bitchy, bare-all gossip about Martha Stewart. Why bother? Because she’s “famous”? I think the book industry can do without such blather, thank you very much. Kudos to Anne Kingston for getting through the book… and warning us all to stay the heck away. And, speaking of the book industry… way to go Penguin! Good effort but more work is required. Perhaps Penguin should read the piece about “curl maintenance”. It might help with the cover designs. Sigh.
Magazines, news, reports, etc. wouldn’t be complete without quandaries from Quebec. Mark Steyn has it covered… Intolerance? Yes. Taking it too far. Yes. Taking Quebec for who they are… Priceless!
The End – I think the only page my son, Isaac, reads… a remarkably moving story of a remarkably boring guy. Gotta love those.
Thank you, Maclean’s, however and whenever you arrived in Freetown… it was a blessing.
Your humble, boring, mag-material hungry servant,
Stephen
Imagine my surprise when a magazine-seller approached me in Crown Bakery, one of the most “western” retreats in the city, and held aloft a copy of Maclean’s magazine – the March 29th issue, no less. And, according to the cover, this one was a “Spring Double Issue”. Mr. Magazine-seller knows I’m Canadian and knows how I love to devour magazines. A “double-whammy” for him and a sure sale. Not even the depiction of a plaintive, bleeding Christ figure detoured me. And neither did the bare-all Martha Stewart book review highlighted at the top of the cover. Both things, I might add, that would usually turn my stomach.
I regularly buy “Focus on Africa” and “Africa Report” both published by U.K. companies. I sometimes buy “Newsweek” – usually two-three weeks out of date. And, I occasionally stumble across old issues of the “Economist” – a real treat. The local magazines, “Newday” and “SierraEye” are so bad… I end up regretting the small purchase price. I buy them to support the industry and quickly pass them along to word-hungry security guards or Class Six Secondary School students who are desperate for reading materials.
This issue of Maclean’s was only a week out of date… and bore the subscriber’s address as Leaside Park Dr., Toronto. I didn’t ask who or how or when… but quickly scratched together the 10,000Le he wanted and stashed the magazine into my briefcase… careful not to fold the cover, tear a page or wrinkle the binding.
I was going to savour this one… I was going to devour it’s contents over time… usually late at night, reading by the light of my headlamp, sitting under my mosquito netting, sweating and salivating over my deliciously Canadian magazine sweet-treat.
A week or so after my purchase, the magazine is wrinkled, folded, dog-eared, thumbed and fingered… and barely hanging together.
I think I read every word… even the ads, something I wouldn’t normally do. I read with compassion the story of Bernice Packford, who thinks she’s had enough of this life. I caught the controversy over the women’s and men’s Olympic coverage on the letters to the editor/mailbag pages. To Loblaws, Sobey’s, IGA, Foodland, etc. – isn’t it obvious that the price of a plastic grocery bag should be $1.00 – universally applied? That’s the only way to “encourage” environmentalism – via the pocketbook.
Is it really “good news” that Margaret Atwood sang? And, why should we care what she does with Olivia Newton-John? It certainly is “bad news” that Pringles was pulled off the shelves for suspected salmonella contamination. Interestingly, we can buy Pringles here – usually stale-dated, and I’m pretty sure those “maybe contaminated” tubes of tubers will wind up on store shelves here in West Africa.
I was shocked by Linda Frum’s article on the trouble at “Rights and Democracy”, “Canada’s publicly funded human rights organization”. What did she say? Eleven million dollars? Good gawd. I work with a human rights/media development organization and I’ve never seen the kind of money she talks about… Millions? Tens of thousands? Hundreds of thousands? Yeah right… Here I sit in Freetown, which would surely qualify as a “most deserving region of the world” and I’ve yet to see the kind of money Frum mentions for conferences, discretionary funds, managerial laptops or administration. Let me guess… of the eleven million dollar budget, less than 10% actually goes to those regions deemed deserving.
And, Paul Wells piece on “Harper’s Right Turn” incensed me and not just because I’m a left-leaning, slightly socialist journalist. How far right can we get? It’s a scary thought… Thanks Paul. But, it was good to see our “sacred” postal system illustrated by the likes of Andrew Tolson… who photographically captures the essence of how dire the system has become - unprofessional, lackadaisical, unresponsive and a behemoth/albatross around our necks. Time to do something about this place… the postal system, which I love so much, needs a massive upgrade in attitude and attention, in my mind.
Here I sit in post-conflict Sierra Leone… and imagine my surprise when I read about the (alleged) Liberian warlord living free and safe in Canada. Hmmm, on the diamonds from Sierra Leone perhaps? It’s a well-known fact here that the Liberian/Sierra Leonean war, through the 90s and into the millennium, was about diamonds, drugs, power and greed. And, we’re still seeing the effects. I attended the opening of the Charles Taylor trial at the Hague, via video conference at the Special Court of Sierra Leone. And, from what I learned, Taylor still controls a great deal of the wealth and power in Liberia. That’s a scary thought… but so is the notion that Canada has become a “haven” for a well-known killer and warlord. Where is Bill Horace now? Who’s investigating this further? It’s the tip of the iceberg… or, as they say here, the green snake in the grass. Time to look (carefully) deeper, in my mind.
Gay Republicans, bankrupt Greece, banning bluefin tuna, sandwiches, fashion runways, Activa yogurt and meatless Mondays were all great reads… from newsmakers to women in metal… some things I cared about deeply and others… well, no.
The Back Pages… I had to wonder who or why any reviewer much less a wily consumer would ever wade through almost 400 pages of bitchy, bare-all gossip about Martha Stewart. Why bother? Because she’s “famous”? I think the book industry can do without such blather, thank you very much. Kudos to Anne Kingston for getting through the book… and warning us all to stay the heck away. And, speaking of the book industry… way to go Penguin! Good effort but more work is required. Perhaps Penguin should read the piece about “curl maintenance”. It might help with the cover designs. Sigh.
Magazines, news, reports, etc. wouldn’t be complete without quandaries from Quebec. Mark Steyn has it covered… Intolerance? Yes. Taking it too far. Yes. Taking Quebec for who they are… Priceless!
The End – I think the only page my son, Isaac, reads… a remarkably moving story of a remarkably boring guy. Gotta love those.
Thank you, Maclean’s, however and whenever you arrived in Freetown… it was a blessing.
Your humble, boring, mag-material hungry servant,
Stephen
Sunday, March 21, 2010
The government… is aquiver
Corruption… I’ve written about it before and am revisiting the topic because it’s been all over the news here in Sierra Leone – again. This time, however, the “barking dog has teeth”, as they say, and arrests, convictions and charges are in the air – and courts.
The Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) is an independent body set up to investigate and charge folks suspected of corruption, which, as you know, is rampant here in Sierra Leone – from police officers on the street right up through the highest levels of government. (I wish they’d do something about police corruption – bribery – but that seems to be just a fact of life here) One of the posters created by the ACC pictures a set of handcuffs with the slogan “one size fits all, even the big fishes”. And, interestingly, the ACC logo is a fierce looking eagle (or “ack”, a vicious bird of prey) that stares down its beak at any and all who dare glance in its direction.
Speaking of “big fishes”, Afsata Kabba, the Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources has just been relieved of her duties and charged with 17 counts of corruption… (“soliciting and accepting advantage” – nice terms for severely corrupt behaviour) It’s reported that she accepted thousands of dollars in bribes from the “fish mafia” operating off the coast of Sierra Leone. This after being “sacked and moved” from her position as Minister of Energy and Power, in early 2009, under suspicious circumstances – some say corrupt practices in that ministry as well. She ran the Fisheries Ministry for just under a year and now faces jail time, fines, etc. if she’s convicted. The war in the media continues over this matter – some supportive (paid off) publishers say she’s a “marine-heroine” and some say she’s a dastardly, evil, “fishy-mastermind”.
In November 2009, the Minister of Health and Sanitation, Sheiku Tejan Koroma, was relieved of his duties under suspicion of “accepting influence”, “abuse of office” and mismanagement of funds in his ministry. The Anti-Corruption Commission found several instances of suspicious misbehaviour and charged the (no-longer honourable) Minister with corruption… leading to a recent conviction in court and a sentence of five years imprisonment or payment of fines totalling approximately one hundred and fifty million Leones (about $40,000USD).
Apparently the former Minister visited the courts late last week and paid the fine – probably out of the mismanaged or ill-gotten monies while he was Minister… thereby avoiding a jail term in the Pademba Road prison – arguably one of the worst jails in the world. No doubt, if convicted, the former Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources will opt for the same route… again, paying the fines out of ill-gotten monies, I’m sure.
The National Revenue Authority (NRA) the government department responsible for tax collection, customs, etc. has also been shaken up. Last week, five “high up” men were suspended – some say “arrested” – for mismanagement and corrupt activities surrounding import containers and tax collection.
And, “the Commissioner, Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) has informed the Office of the President that since October this year, the ACC has been investigating specific reports of allegations made against, Mr. Allieu Sesay, the Commissioner-General of the National Revenue Authority (NRA). The allegations include inter alia misappropriation of public funds, misappropriation of donor funds, abuse of office, abuse of position, corrupt acquisition of wealth, fraudulent or wilful or negligent failure to comply with procurement laws or procedures and conflict of interest.”
The ACC is cracking down… and the head of the ACC, Abdul Tejan-Cole, is bent on challenging, investigating and prosecuting those “big fishes” who continue to abuse their positions of authority and responsibility. Who’s next is anyone’s guess… but I’m hoping the “barking dog continues to bite” in the fight against corruption. Nothing is more frustrating… or disheartening to the people of Sierra Leone.
Perhaps there’s hope…
Stephen
The Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) is an independent body set up to investigate and charge folks suspected of corruption, which, as you know, is rampant here in Sierra Leone – from police officers on the street right up through the highest levels of government. (I wish they’d do something about police corruption – bribery – but that seems to be just a fact of life here) One of the posters created by the ACC pictures a set of handcuffs with the slogan “one size fits all, even the big fishes”. And, interestingly, the ACC logo is a fierce looking eagle (or “ack”, a vicious bird of prey) that stares down its beak at any and all who dare glance in its direction.
Speaking of “big fishes”, Afsata Kabba, the Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources has just been relieved of her duties and charged with 17 counts of corruption… (“soliciting and accepting advantage” – nice terms for severely corrupt behaviour) It’s reported that she accepted thousands of dollars in bribes from the “fish mafia” operating off the coast of Sierra Leone. This after being “sacked and moved” from her position as Minister of Energy and Power, in early 2009, under suspicious circumstances – some say corrupt practices in that ministry as well. She ran the Fisheries Ministry for just under a year and now faces jail time, fines, etc. if she’s convicted. The war in the media continues over this matter – some supportive (paid off) publishers say she’s a “marine-heroine” and some say she’s a dastardly, evil, “fishy-mastermind”.
In November 2009, the Minister of Health and Sanitation, Sheiku Tejan Koroma, was relieved of his duties under suspicion of “accepting influence”, “abuse of office” and mismanagement of funds in his ministry. The Anti-Corruption Commission found several instances of suspicious misbehaviour and charged the (no-longer honourable) Minister with corruption… leading to a recent conviction in court and a sentence of five years imprisonment or payment of fines totalling approximately one hundred and fifty million Leones (about $40,000USD).
Apparently the former Minister visited the courts late last week and paid the fine – probably out of the mismanaged or ill-gotten monies while he was Minister… thereby avoiding a jail term in the Pademba Road prison – arguably one of the worst jails in the world. No doubt, if convicted, the former Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources will opt for the same route… again, paying the fines out of ill-gotten monies, I’m sure.
The National Revenue Authority (NRA) the government department responsible for tax collection, customs, etc. has also been shaken up. Last week, five “high up” men were suspended – some say “arrested” – for mismanagement and corrupt activities surrounding import containers and tax collection.
And, “the Commissioner, Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) has informed the Office of the President that since October this year, the ACC has been investigating specific reports of allegations made against, Mr. Allieu Sesay, the Commissioner-General of the National Revenue Authority (NRA). The allegations include inter alia misappropriation of public funds, misappropriation of donor funds, abuse of office, abuse of position, corrupt acquisition of wealth, fraudulent or wilful or negligent failure to comply with procurement laws or procedures and conflict of interest.”
The ACC is cracking down… and the head of the ACC, Abdul Tejan-Cole, is bent on challenging, investigating and prosecuting those “big fishes” who continue to abuse their positions of authority and responsibility. Who’s next is anyone’s guess… but I’m hoping the “barking dog continues to bite” in the fight against corruption. Nothing is more frustrating… or disheartening to the people of Sierra Leone.
Perhaps there’s hope…
Stephen
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Malaria
Here’s what I know of malaria – it makes me feel like “shyte”. And, I’ve got it again – damn the mosquitoes. I’ve started my round of malaria meds and will be back on my feet again in a week or so… and will update all when symptoms calm down.
From the World Health Organization website – accessed on a day when I’m barely able to lift a finger to keyboard… but must take advantage of power and internet connectivity.
Malaria is caused by a parasite called Plasmodium, which is transmitted via the bites of infected mosquitoes. In the human body, the parasites multiply in the liver, and then infect red blood cells.
Symptoms of malaria include fever, headache, and vomiting, and usually appear between 10 and 15 days after the mosquito bite. If not treated, malaria can quickly become life-threatening by disrupting the blood supply to vital organs.
Key interventions to control malaria include: prompt and effective treatment with artemisinin-based combination therapies; use of insecticidal nets by people at risk; and indoor residual spraying with insecticide to control the vector mosquitoes.
From the World Malaria Report – 2009.
• Half of the world's population is at risk of malaria.
• An estimated 243 million malaria cases occurred in 2008.
• An estimated 863 000 malaria deaths occurred in 2008; 767 000 of those (89%) occurred in Africa.
From the Malaria Foundation International.
• Malaria is estimated to cause 300- 500 million clinical cases and over one million deaths each year.
• Every 30 seconds, a child somewhere dies of malaria. In any given year, nearly ten percent of the global population will suffer a case of malaria.
• Most survive after an illness of 10-20 days.
• Children are especially vulnerable to malaria. In Africa, where 80% of malaria cases are treated at home, the disease kills one child in twenty before the age of five.
• Pregnant women are also at high risk. They have an increase risk of disease and death, as well as adverse impacts for their developing babies- including low birth weight, growth retardation, still births and death.
• In African countries, up to 60% of hospital admissions may be for malaria; that's 6 out of 10 admissions!
I’ll survive because I’m a fortunate “pink” and can afford the medication, get to a pharmacy, take a day or two off work and get someone to bring me bread and water. For many of my neighbours, children, workers and non-workers in Sierra Leone, their options are far fewer. It’s scary out here…
Horizontal
S/
From the World Health Organization website – accessed on a day when I’m barely able to lift a finger to keyboard… but must take advantage of power and internet connectivity.
Malaria is caused by a parasite called Plasmodium, which is transmitted via the bites of infected mosquitoes. In the human body, the parasites multiply in the liver, and then infect red blood cells.
Symptoms of malaria include fever, headache, and vomiting, and usually appear between 10 and 15 days after the mosquito bite. If not treated, malaria can quickly become life-threatening by disrupting the blood supply to vital organs.
Key interventions to control malaria include: prompt and effective treatment with artemisinin-based combination therapies; use of insecticidal nets by people at risk; and indoor residual spraying with insecticide to control the vector mosquitoes.
From the World Malaria Report – 2009.
• Half of the world's population is at risk of malaria.
• An estimated 243 million malaria cases occurred in 2008.
• An estimated 863 000 malaria deaths occurred in 2008; 767 000 of those (89%) occurred in Africa.
From the Malaria Foundation International.
• Malaria is estimated to cause 300- 500 million clinical cases and over one million deaths each year.
• Every 30 seconds, a child somewhere dies of malaria. In any given year, nearly ten percent of the global population will suffer a case of malaria.
• Most survive after an illness of 10-20 days.
• Children are especially vulnerable to malaria. In Africa, where 80% of malaria cases are treated at home, the disease kills one child in twenty before the age of five.
• Pregnant women are also at high risk. They have an increase risk of disease and death, as well as adverse impacts for their developing babies- including low birth weight, growth retardation, still births and death.
• In African countries, up to 60% of hospital admissions may be for malaria; that's 6 out of 10 admissions!
I’ll survive because I’m a fortunate “pink” and can afford the medication, get to a pharmacy, take a day or two off work and get someone to bring me bread and water. For many of my neighbours, children, workers and non-workers in Sierra Leone, their options are far fewer. It’s scary out here…
Horizontal
S/
Saturday, February 6, 2010
The Beatles come to Sierra Leone
When did Ed Sullivan announce the Beatles arrival to North America? When did the British invasion of pop music and the Beatles start? All I know is that the broadcast – often reported as “the most important musical event in history” – was recorded in black and white – and four lads from Liverpool took the stage in black suits and ties.
Okay… if you remember, you’re probably a little older than I am now… February 9, 1964, to many, is as memorable as the day Kennedy was shot in Dallas. “Where were you when???” Sunday, February 9, 1964 was the day the Beatles made their first appearance on North American television. And, needless to say the day was memorable and monumental for many people.
Why am I writing about this… early February 2010??? Well, this February, in Freetown, Sierra Leone, I introduced the Beatles to a country that seems to have missed the British musical invasion – perhaps a backlash against the British colonial influence through the 1800s and 1900s. I’m no Ed Sullivan and it wasn’t on national television… but I can claim my place in Sierra Leone’s musical history.
I was invited to attend a graduation ceremony for a neighbour who completed her studies from the Camp Vocational Centre for Women in Food and Nutrition. A two year certificate program that carries significant weight around here. In fact, any certificate from any educational institute is important here… I won’t get into the state of education – yet – but needless to say it’s rather atrocious. This event was important – to understate the obvious.
At the party following the graduation, held at the Bentina Restaurant and Bar in Aberdeen across from the beach, the music was loud, the celebrants beamed, family and friends proudly presented gifts to the graduates… and people danced, ate and drank in merriment. Anticipating a rather painful musical experience, I prepared a CD – a “plate” – of music from Canada, which included Mae Moore, Brian Adams, the Tragically Hip, the Bare Naked Ladies, Leonard Cohen, etc. It also contained several songs from the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and Bob Dylan.
I should back up a bit… and explain what I mean by “painful musical experience”. Here in Sierra Leone, they love their music LOUD, often to the point of distortion. They love “digital” music created on synthesizers with heavy disco beats – repetitive drumbeats and electronic sound effects. It’s not quite disco and not quite rap. It’s not quite hip-hop and not quite pop. But, it’s incredibly popular. People love music here… and kids, young people and adults often sing, dance and gyrate unabashedly in the streets – to music videos blaring from market stalls and shops on the street.
I have to say, I’m not exactly a fan of the music here… (“cultural music aside, of course), hence my preparation of “good” music for the party. I presented the disk to the DJ – DJ Power Aziz – and asked if he’d have a listen and at some point play a selection. He dutifully listened to a few pieces and announced that while he liked some of the music, he couldn’t play anything because “no one else would like the music”.
Later that evening, after everyone had eaten and taken to the dance floor, I requested a song – “All You Need Is Love” – by the Beatles. I figured it was about as “Africa-friendly” as possible – understandable lyrics, a decent beat, memorable melody, etc. The DJ relented, after a small donation to the musical sound set, and the dance floor quickly emptied. I couldn’t believe it… so I grabbed a young girl, Yanda, the 10-year-old daughter of another neighbour, and we happily spun, twirled and “shook our money-makers” to the Beatles.
Interestingly, after Yanda and my dance (following significant ridicule for being the white guy who can’t dance) and the resumption of the (loud, distorted) heavy electronic drumbeats, I asked folks if they’d ever heard of the Beatles… NOT ONE PERSON had ever heard anything like that song or knew anything about the Beatles. And so I tried to explain – the biggest selling musical group ever – the most popular musicians ever – the biggest money-makers… all of which fell on deaf ears as did the song, “All You Need Is Love”.
My curiosity was peaked… and I asked two journalism classes at Fourah Bay College – students between 21 and 35 years – if they’d ever heard of the Beatles. One had – because they regularly listen to a BBC affiliate radio station here who sometimes play “oldies”. Thus another assignment was born – find and review a Beatles song for a local newspaper. It’ll be interesting to read their responses…
So, forty-six years after the Beatles hit the television airwaves in North America, they’ve now landed in Sierra Leone – to a warm, sunny and humid reception, hopefully. I may not be Ed Sullivan but perhaps I’ve introduced “the long and winding road”, along “Abbey Road”, “day tripping”, in a “yellow submarine”, “with a little help from my friends” and “all my loving”, hoping “we can work it out”.
Sorry, I couldn’t resist.
Stephen
Okay… if you remember, you’re probably a little older than I am now… February 9, 1964, to many, is as memorable as the day Kennedy was shot in Dallas. “Where were you when???” Sunday, February 9, 1964 was the day the Beatles made their first appearance on North American television. And, needless to say the day was memorable and monumental for many people.
Why am I writing about this… early February 2010??? Well, this February, in Freetown, Sierra Leone, I introduced the Beatles to a country that seems to have missed the British musical invasion – perhaps a backlash against the British colonial influence through the 1800s and 1900s. I’m no Ed Sullivan and it wasn’t on national television… but I can claim my place in Sierra Leone’s musical history.
I was invited to attend a graduation ceremony for a neighbour who completed her studies from the Camp Vocational Centre for Women in Food and Nutrition. A two year certificate program that carries significant weight around here. In fact, any certificate from any educational institute is important here… I won’t get into the state of education – yet – but needless to say it’s rather atrocious. This event was important – to understate the obvious.
At the party following the graduation, held at the Bentina Restaurant and Bar in Aberdeen across from the beach, the music was loud, the celebrants beamed, family and friends proudly presented gifts to the graduates… and people danced, ate and drank in merriment. Anticipating a rather painful musical experience, I prepared a CD – a “plate” – of music from Canada, which included Mae Moore, Brian Adams, the Tragically Hip, the Bare Naked Ladies, Leonard Cohen, etc. It also contained several songs from the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and Bob Dylan.
I should back up a bit… and explain what I mean by “painful musical experience”. Here in Sierra Leone, they love their music LOUD, often to the point of distortion. They love “digital” music created on synthesizers with heavy disco beats – repetitive drumbeats and electronic sound effects. It’s not quite disco and not quite rap. It’s not quite hip-hop and not quite pop. But, it’s incredibly popular. People love music here… and kids, young people and adults often sing, dance and gyrate unabashedly in the streets – to music videos blaring from market stalls and shops on the street.
I have to say, I’m not exactly a fan of the music here… (“cultural music aside, of course), hence my preparation of “good” music for the party. I presented the disk to the DJ – DJ Power Aziz – and asked if he’d have a listen and at some point play a selection. He dutifully listened to a few pieces and announced that while he liked some of the music, he couldn’t play anything because “no one else would like the music”.
Later that evening, after everyone had eaten and taken to the dance floor, I requested a song – “All You Need Is Love” – by the Beatles. I figured it was about as “Africa-friendly” as possible – understandable lyrics, a decent beat, memorable melody, etc. The DJ relented, after a small donation to the musical sound set, and the dance floor quickly emptied. I couldn’t believe it… so I grabbed a young girl, Yanda, the 10-year-old daughter of another neighbour, and we happily spun, twirled and “shook our money-makers” to the Beatles.
Interestingly, after Yanda and my dance (following significant ridicule for being the white guy who can’t dance) and the resumption of the (loud, distorted) heavy electronic drumbeats, I asked folks if they’d ever heard of the Beatles… NOT ONE PERSON had ever heard anything like that song or knew anything about the Beatles. And so I tried to explain – the biggest selling musical group ever – the most popular musicians ever – the biggest money-makers… all of which fell on deaf ears as did the song, “All You Need Is Love”.
My curiosity was peaked… and I asked two journalism classes at Fourah Bay College – students between 21 and 35 years – if they’d ever heard of the Beatles. One had – because they regularly listen to a BBC affiliate radio station here who sometimes play “oldies”. Thus another assignment was born – find and review a Beatles song for a local newspaper. It’ll be interesting to read their responses…
So, forty-six years after the Beatles hit the television airwaves in North America, they’ve now landed in Sierra Leone – to a warm, sunny and humid reception, hopefully. I may not be Ed Sullivan but perhaps I’ve introduced “the long and winding road”, along “Abbey Road”, “day tripping”, in a “yellow submarine”, “with a little help from my friends” and “all my loving”, hoping “we can work it out”.
Sorry, I couldn’t resist.
Stephen
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Missed and Missing…
Well, I’m back in Freetown, Sierra Leone – having returned to my “second home” just a week ago following a wonderful visit back to bustling Toronto and the chilly climes of Canada. I missed the warmth and sunshine of this place… not to mention the friends and colleagues I’ve managed to connect with over my previous seven months in “sweet Salone”.
I know I’ve been remiss with my postings to this blog and my letters to friends and family in Canada. Sorry… Or, “osh-ya” in Kreole, which means, “I’m sorry. I beg of you.”
The past few months here – from about the middle of October through to the end of my original contract on December the 15th - were very hectic… to understate the obvious. I’d “hit my stride” as they say and workshops for local journalists, teaching at the university, meetings, etc. got the better of my time and limited resources. It was good, however, and I honestly felt I was having an impact, making in-roads and noticing the positive influence I was having on the state of media and human rights here in Sierra Leone. Okay… the world didn’t change. Sierra Leone journalists didn’t miraculously learn to report and write and broadcast. And much of what I was up to wasn’t easily recognized… but I noticed. I’ll try to update everyone on those “noticeables” when I get another chance.
One thing that did change was the status of Sierra Leone on both the Human Poverty Index and the Human Development Index, according to the UN… Sierra Leone was ranked last/worst… for several years. And, while I was here, sometime between July and December 2009, Sierra Leone rose to second last on those listings. Afghanistan is now worse than Sierra Leone… for obvious reasons, and I’m taking sole credit for this miraculous surge in development. (kidding)
What I wanted to write about were the things I missed about Freetown while in Canada… and there were many. Of course the first, and now ever present, sun and warmth. I’m sitting outside on the verandah, in the dark, in shorts and a tee-shirt – wiggling my toes in sandals. It’s the middle of January… and I can’t even imagine wearing a parka, scarf, boots and mittens.
I missed the street life. Here, everyone lives, works, sleeps, eats and lives their lives outside… in markets, along streets, in courtyards, on the beach, etc. It’s an outdoor culture, which makes for interesting and lively walks to and from places. Yes, I walk everywhere here… or mostly everywhere. And, I missed that. While I was in the Toronto area, I had to drive everywhere – things were so far apart and I couldn’t help notice the lack of street life and the few people venturing from car to house or shopping mall to car.
I missed the food and have now had my re-fill of rice, cassava leaves, potato leaves, palm oil, fresh and dried fish, and of course, the sting of hot African peppers in everything. It’s a wonderfully simple diet I’ve become accustomed to over these months. And, eating once a day seems to suit me just fine…
I missed the many friendly faces who greet me on almost every corner. Freetown and Sierra Leone are open places where people greet each other on the street and ask, “how are you?” at every opportunity. I haven’t managed to accept or use the standard response, “tell gawd tenk-yee” but I always smile and respond with “plenty fine and you?” The security guards in the compound and along the hillside up from my apartment greet me warmly everyday. And, the military policeman who stands at the barracks gate always waves and bows – to which I reply with a semi-Buddhist clasp of hands or thumbs-up greeting depending on what I’m carrying that day.
I missed shaking hands with everyone I see and having conversations, holding hands, with male friends as I walk down the street. I still feel a little strange about it but I’m getting used to it. I remember walking with Andrew on the boardwalk in Toronto and thinking – if I were in Freetown, we’d be holding hands…
I missed random acts of friendliness and kindness. On Friday, I got caught without Leones not having exchanged US dollars for Leones with “my Rasta man/friend, Emmanuel” on the street corner. I was walking to a meeting, very early in the morning, and my friend who runs the neighbourhood internet café, Alpha, and I struck up a conversation. He asked where I was going… and I explained my predicament. He ended up loaning me 10,000 Leone so I could get a taxi to my meeting. I was very appreciative… especially because there’s a sign in the café that reads, “credit will be available… tomorrow”.
And, my regular retailer of peppers and groundnut at the Aberdeen market – a woman I call “Sisseh” (for sister), offered to buy me my fish from another market stall because I still haven’t learned to tell a good dried barracuda from a bad one. She takes good care of me… probably because she sees me struggling sometimes to purchase and cook African dishes like groundnut stew or drinks like ginger beer. I’d hate to know what she repeats to her family and friends about this “crazy or ignorant ‘white’ man” who buys the wrong fish or too much pepper for his suppers.
I missed the wonderfully happy, smiling three-year-old girl who hangs around with her mother at the corner store at the top of my road. Hannah loves to be picked up and tickled… and is always ripe for a giggle and a hug. The other day she was wearing her blue velvetine dress she got for Cmas… and apparently hasn’t taken off since.
I missed the little eight-year-old girls, Precious and Francis, in their green school dresses, who come by my office everyday after their classes. The church across the road hosts a government school by day and these two girls drop by and I teach them to spell a new word everyday. Their teacher, Mrs. LaHaye, is even taking note of their increased spelling prowess. On Friday they brought along a five-year-old sibling who wanted to learn how to spell. I can see I’ll soon have a gaggle of kids gathering in front of the office…
I missed the beach… I haven’t had a chance to get to the luscious beaches down the coast but I’ve briefly visited Aberdeen and Lumley beach near my apartment. There’s nothing like the sound and smell of rolling oceanic waves to soothe the icicles from of my blood. I can’t wait to venture to my two favourite beaches, Lakka and Beach Two – perhaps later in the month.
I’ve missed having to hand wash my clothes, bed sheet, pillow cases, towels, etc. (NOT) Okay… that was something I could live without, for sure, and throwing a load of laundry into my mother’s chrome washing machine was incredible. But, I’m surprised how I missed having to calculate when and how to wash my clothes.
I missed the sensation of cracking open a cold beer, taking that first slug and watching the condensation bead and roll down the side of the can on a blistering hot day. I missed sweating and having to drink at least two litres of water everyday. Weirdly, I think my bladder was in shock with the change in water intake and water retention/processing while in Canada. I’m back to sweating and not urinating… Sorry, “TMI” – too much information.
Speaking of thirst – I missed the Salone thirst for books, reading materials, knowledge and questions about where I come from and what I’m doing here. Over and over again I hear, “Sierra Leoneons love strangers” and it’s true… people here are very curious and inquisitive. And, they love to talk… “tok-tok” as they say… Canadians may be friendly and slightly curious but the reservations of most Canadians took me awhile to get used to again. We are a conservative lot, despite our wish for more liberal approaches to politics, positions and people.
Other things I missed about Sierra Leone while I was in Canada…
- Sleeping without a blanket
- Sleeping under a mosquito net
- Slathering bug repellent whenever I go out at night
- Open windows
- Crowded taxis and poda-podas
- Blue skies
- Market haggling and dickering or negotiating for a cheaper price on everything from taxi rides to rice
- Lawlessness and “official guidelines” like bribes, commissions and scams
- Heat rash
- Cold showers
- Intermittent power, darkness and no internet service
- Bugs in the kitchen
- Sand on the floor and dust everywhere
- Sweaty computer keyboards
- The sounds of croaking frogs from the sewage ditch that drains down the hill on the other side of my compound wall
- My special Salone friends; Mary, Sputnik, Elvis, Momoh, Lylla, Sulak, Arthur, and my landlords, Mala and Kishen, among many others.
And, now that I’m back in “sweet Salone” I miss certain things about Canada. But, those will have to wait for another blog-thing… and I promise I won’t wait too long.
Yours,
S/
I know I’ve been remiss with my postings to this blog and my letters to friends and family in Canada. Sorry… Or, “osh-ya” in Kreole, which means, “I’m sorry. I beg of you.”
The past few months here – from about the middle of October through to the end of my original contract on December the 15th - were very hectic… to understate the obvious. I’d “hit my stride” as they say and workshops for local journalists, teaching at the university, meetings, etc. got the better of my time and limited resources. It was good, however, and I honestly felt I was having an impact, making in-roads and noticing the positive influence I was having on the state of media and human rights here in Sierra Leone. Okay… the world didn’t change. Sierra Leone journalists didn’t miraculously learn to report and write and broadcast. And much of what I was up to wasn’t easily recognized… but I noticed. I’ll try to update everyone on those “noticeables” when I get another chance.
One thing that did change was the status of Sierra Leone on both the Human Poverty Index and the Human Development Index, according to the UN… Sierra Leone was ranked last/worst… for several years. And, while I was here, sometime between July and December 2009, Sierra Leone rose to second last on those listings. Afghanistan is now worse than Sierra Leone… for obvious reasons, and I’m taking sole credit for this miraculous surge in development. (kidding)
What I wanted to write about were the things I missed about Freetown while in Canada… and there were many. Of course the first, and now ever present, sun and warmth. I’m sitting outside on the verandah, in the dark, in shorts and a tee-shirt – wiggling my toes in sandals. It’s the middle of January… and I can’t even imagine wearing a parka, scarf, boots and mittens.
I missed the street life. Here, everyone lives, works, sleeps, eats and lives their lives outside… in markets, along streets, in courtyards, on the beach, etc. It’s an outdoor culture, which makes for interesting and lively walks to and from places. Yes, I walk everywhere here… or mostly everywhere. And, I missed that. While I was in the Toronto area, I had to drive everywhere – things were so far apart and I couldn’t help notice the lack of street life and the few people venturing from car to house or shopping mall to car.
I missed the food and have now had my re-fill of rice, cassava leaves, potato leaves, palm oil, fresh and dried fish, and of course, the sting of hot African peppers in everything. It’s a wonderfully simple diet I’ve become accustomed to over these months. And, eating once a day seems to suit me just fine…
I missed the many friendly faces who greet me on almost every corner. Freetown and Sierra Leone are open places where people greet each other on the street and ask, “how are you?” at every opportunity. I haven’t managed to accept or use the standard response, “tell gawd tenk-yee” but I always smile and respond with “plenty fine and you?” The security guards in the compound and along the hillside up from my apartment greet me warmly everyday. And, the military policeman who stands at the barracks gate always waves and bows – to which I reply with a semi-Buddhist clasp of hands or thumbs-up greeting depending on what I’m carrying that day.
I missed shaking hands with everyone I see and having conversations, holding hands, with male friends as I walk down the street. I still feel a little strange about it but I’m getting used to it. I remember walking with Andrew on the boardwalk in Toronto and thinking – if I were in Freetown, we’d be holding hands…
I missed random acts of friendliness and kindness. On Friday, I got caught without Leones not having exchanged US dollars for Leones with “my Rasta man/friend, Emmanuel” on the street corner. I was walking to a meeting, very early in the morning, and my friend who runs the neighbourhood internet café, Alpha, and I struck up a conversation. He asked where I was going… and I explained my predicament. He ended up loaning me 10,000 Leone so I could get a taxi to my meeting. I was very appreciative… especially because there’s a sign in the café that reads, “credit will be available… tomorrow”.
And, my regular retailer of peppers and groundnut at the Aberdeen market – a woman I call “Sisseh” (for sister), offered to buy me my fish from another market stall because I still haven’t learned to tell a good dried barracuda from a bad one. She takes good care of me… probably because she sees me struggling sometimes to purchase and cook African dishes like groundnut stew or drinks like ginger beer. I’d hate to know what she repeats to her family and friends about this “crazy or ignorant ‘white’ man” who buys the wrong fish or too much pepper for his suppers.
I missed the wonderfully happy, smiling three-year-old girl who hangs around with her mother at the corner store at the top of my road. Hannah loves to be picked up and tickled… and is always ripe for a giggle and a hug. The other day she was wearing her blue velvetine dress she got for Cmas… and apparently hasn’t taken off since.
I missed the little eight-year-old girls, Precious and Francis, in their green school dresses, who come by my office everyday after their classes. The church across the road hosts a government school by day and these two girls drop by and I teach them to spell a new word everyday. Their teacher, Mrs. LaHaye, is even taking note of their increased spelling prowess. On Friday they brought along a five-year-old sibling who wanted to learn how to spell. I can see I’ll soon have a gaggle of kids gathering in front of the office…
I missed the beach… I haven’t had a chance to get to the luscious beaches down the coast but I’ve briefly visited Aberdeen and Lumley beach near my apartment. There’s nothing like the sound and smell of rolling oceanic waves to soothe the icicles from of my blood. I can’t wait to venture to my two favourite beaches, Lakka and Beach Two – perhaps later in the month.
I’ve missed having to hand wash my clothes, bed sheet, pillow cases, towels, etc. (NOT) Okay… that was something I could live without, for sure, and throwing a load of laundry into my mother’s chrome washing machine was incredible. But, I’m surprised how I missed having to calculate when and how to wash my clothes.
I missed the sensation of cracking open a cold beer, taking that first slug and watching the condensation bead and roll down the side of the can on a blistering hot day. I missed sweating and having to drink at least two litres of water everyday. Weirdly, I think my bladder was in shock with the change in water intake and water retention/processing while in Canada. I’m back to sweating and not urinating… Sorry, “TMI” – too much information.
Speaking of thirst – I missed the Salone thirst for books, reading materials, knowledge and questions about where I come from and what I’m doing here. Over and over again I hear, “Sierra Leoneons love strangers” and it’s true… people here are very curious and inquisitive. And, they love to talk… “tok-tok” as they say… Canadians may be friendly and slightly curious but the reservations of most Canadians took me awhile to get used to again. We are a conservative lot, despite our wish for more liberal approaches to politics, positions and people.
Other things I missed about Sierra Leone while I was in Canada…
- Sleeping without a blanket
- Sleeping under a mosquito net
- Slathering bug repellent whenever I go out at night
- Open windows
- Crowded taxis and poda-podas
- Blue skies
- Market haggling and dickering or negotiating for a cheaper price on everything from taxi rides to rice
- Lawlessness and “official guidelines” like bribes, commissions and scams
- Heat rash
- Cold showers
- Intermittent power, darkness and no internet service
- Bugs in the kitchen
- Sand on the floor and dust everywhere
- Sweaty computer keyboards
- The sounds of croaking frogs from the sewage ditch that drains down the hill on the other side of my compound wall
- My special Salone friends; Mary, Sputnik, Elvis, Momoh, Lylla, Sulak, Arthur, and my landlords, Mala and Kishen, among many others.
And, now that I’m back in “sweet Salone” I miss certain things about Canada. But, those will have to wait for another blog-thing… and I promise I won’t wait too long.
Yours,
S/
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