Red Page Letters

Assembling a care package...

2011-07-31T10:13:00.000Z

It's become a monumental process... a promised "care package" is being assembled in Toronto. And, contents are being gathered from a Calgary bookshop, Staples in Barrie, Apple (from who knows where), Walmart in Innisfil, Mountain Equipment Coop in Toronto and Future Shop in Markham... and quite possibly the behemoth of Costco outside Barrie.

Necessary supplies are being gathered, hunted down, picked up and sent to the JHR office in Toronto for shipment to Freetown, Sierra Leone. And, I can't tell you how excited I am at the prospect of getting this care package - sometime in mid-August.

I owe a great gaggle of gratitude to my parents, my friends, my colleagues and my son, Isaac, for undertaking this monumental task. I'm a picky guy and have very selective tastes...

"My" pens, for example are only available at Staples (Business Depot). They come in packages of two and sell (last time I was in Toronto) for around $4.98 per package. But I'm hooked on them... and you know writers/journalists... we love, are loyal and are sometimes fanatical about our pens.

I've also asked my dear friend Jennifer to arrange for an Iphone... You may ask "why" when Sierra Leone suffers a dearth of internet and technology. But, I'm trying to keep up to the world... and I'm trying to increase the level of communication I have with the "outside world". I'm thinking an Iphone will help.

In the same package, I've asked for a "Slapper Chopper", as seen on TV. Yes, it's a strange request... but I regularly cook with our local Salone peppers and it's unwise to handle them with bare fingers. Trust me... after one burning experience I've learned. So, the slapper chopper will allow me to dump the peppers from a small bag into the receptacle... and then chop-chop and into the pot. I brought one back here in June 2010 and it was nothing short of miraculous... After hundreds or thousands of "slaps" it finally gave out... and I'm looking forward to a new one.

Of course, I've also asked folks to assemble some decent reading material. I'm in a literary abyss and am desperate for some articulate prose. And, to help with reading at night when there's no power - a new headlamp. These are a necessity here and I've manged to go through about three so far. It may sound strange but these things are a gawdsend here.

JHR is also sending along some SWAG - "stuff we all get" - from the Toronto Star and from head office.

And, possibly the most vitally important addition to this care package is a collection of Starbucks instant coffee. You know the individual sachets? They're delicious - rather better than Nescafe.

Again, I'm indebted to friends and family... and I so, SO appreciate their efforts. Thank you, if you're reading this.

Looking forward to tearing open the package... Cmas in August. Hurray.

Yours, from Freetown,
S/

Left out of the loop...

2011-07-10T10:08:00.000Z

I have to tell you... when I hear about the "latest" technology, the most recent international news or even word from "home", I feel quite "out of the loop". It's a strange sensation when I read about developments in Canada - a majority government, Toronto's mayor, the weather, the Stanley Cup, etc. Wonder and awe... curiosity and fear... amazement and shock.

I just read an article sent to me via a fellow Knight Fellow and it talked about "CMS" or content management systems for news outlets. Oh my... I don't know anything about that stuff. And, when I read about the great things going on with citizen journalists and "mapping", again... I'm a bit lost. When I found out that Iphone had a Facebook application... Wow... and I hear you can even "twitter or tweet" (I'm not sure how to describe that action) from a phone... Wow.

I learned about the Stanley Cup and the Vancouver riots through a friend here - who has cable TV - two weeks after the fact.

Living in Sierra Leone is a little like living in a vacuum. Very little news from the outside. Very little contact with the outside... and when I think about re-joining the world... oh my... it seems a daunting mission. On some very minor level, I think I know what it feels like for long-term prisoners to contemplate getting out of prison. The world has changed... and I've missed some of those changes.

Contemplating all these new developments... I can't wait to sink my teeth into some while others scare me. Technology... news... systems... politics... They all proceed and develop. Things change and I guess I have too... and I'm eager to see how I'll fit back in.

No... No plans for a return to Canada yet. But, change, development, technology and people are on my mind.

From inside the vacuum of Sierra Leone,
S/

The State of Sierra Leone and Human Rights

2011-07-10T09:36:00.000Z

Just recently I went to the launch of Amnesty International’s Report 2011, held at Santano House in Freetown. “The State of the World’s Human Rights” is Amnesty’s yearly contribution to the discussion of human rights successes and abuses.

On my shelf are four years of reports – identifiable by their black bindings. The yellow logo featuring the glowing candle wrapped loosely with barbed wire marks each successive year.

The 2011 Report marks the 50th Anniversary of the founding of Amnesty International. (Coincidentally, Sierra Leone celebrated its 50th Anniversary of Independence on April 27th 2011.) This year’s Report is a 400-page tome featuring short notes on approximately 150 countries. Sierra Leone is on page 285. (The Canadian entry is on page 96.)

A side note: I’d love to see an “Amnesty rating system” so often used by the UN in its reports. Countries are listed alphabetically… not by performance. Perhaps one day in the future…

Sierra Leone – population: 5.8 million

I quote. “Despite some progress however, the country continued to suffer from widespread poverty-related violations of socio-economic rights; a high incidence of sexual and gender-based violence; violations of children’s rights; impunity for past crimes against humanity; justice system weaknesses; non-implementation of crucial Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC) recommendations; prevalent corruption; and the looming threat of ethnic violence.”

As the opening paragraph graphically illustrates, Sierra Leone is still a tinderbox of problematic issues. The potential for ignition is high – very high.

The Amnesty Report 2011 on Sierra Leone is broken into eight sections but I’ll be brief.

The Justice System

The report uses the words, “major challenges”, which is a gross understatement. It lists problems such as; an acute shortage of judges, lengthy delays, overloaded public lawyers, inadequate prosecutorial capacity (a fancy way of saying that the SL police force are incapable of prosecuting cases), capacity constraints and corruption.

Prisons are over-crowded and had inadequate medical supplies and food. Juveniles were detained with adults. Women detained with men.

Conditions in the prisons were so harsh that they constituted “cruel, inhumane or degrading treatment or punishment,” direct violations of human rights.

Police and Security Forces

“Police brutality, corruption, excessive use of force, poor conditions in detention cells, unlawful detention were all commonplace. Police were ineffective in maintaining law and order. There were no effective police investigations into ritual murder and very few investigations into sexual and gender-based violence.”

In February 2010, police were dispatched to the National Stadium where school children were hosting track and field events. There was a disturbance and the police injured a great number of children – some as young as six years old.

Just recently (May 2011) police used tear gas, batons and “excessive force” on a group of disabled men, women and children living/squatting in a vacant, government-owned building in downtown Freetown. They threw belongings into the streets and manhandled nursing mothers in wheelchairs.

The Press

Libel is a criminal offence in Sierra Leone. The Sierra Leone Association of Journalists have waged a constitutional case through the Supreme Court but the government, despite promises to “review the Public Order Act of 1965, turned down the journalist’s appeals. This severely limits press freedom.

During 2010, the state-run SL Broadcasting System merged with UN Radio to form the Sierra Leone Broadcasting Corporation (SLBC). This innovative experiment was supposed to lead to an independent, public service broadcaster… another “tick” in a box toward democracy and good governance. But that has stumbled rather miserably. SLBC is not independent. It is not a public service broadcaster… yet!

Children’s Rights

“The government failed to uphold and enforce its domestic legislation and to respect its international treaty obligations to protect children and guarantee their rights.” Despite enacting the Child Rights Act 2007, the children of Sierra Leone have little or no protection from abuse or exploitation.

Thousands of children work under horrendous conditions in the diamond mines and along the streets of Freetown. Floggings are commonplace in the primary and secondary schools. Street children run rampant throughout Freetown and too many children are poor, starving and unhealthy.

Violence Against Women and Children

“Domestic violence remained widespread,” according to the Report. Unfortunately that’s a gross understatement. I tend to use the words “rampant”, “everywhere”, “uncontrolled” and very sad. Few cases were reported to the authorities and those that were received “no investigation, few prosecutions, out-of-court settlements and interference from traditional leaders”.

Throughout 2010, there was only one case of domestic violence prosecuted through the courts under the Domestic Violence Act 2007. The Family Support Units of the SL police, recipient of a ton of international donor funding, is totally ineffective. There are hundreds of cases taken to the FSU but after police “intervention” – nothing is done.

Female genital cutting (FGC) continues. Early marriage is still “normal” for girls as young as 14. Rape of girls by close relatives, schoolteachers, and security personnel continued as well as teenage pregnancy, child trafficking, sexual exploitation, and discrimination.

According to a recent (September 2010) study done by Concern Worldwide, Catholic Relief Services (CRS) and Plan International, “Teachers are the main perpetrators of sexual abuses and exploitation… forcing and coercing girl pupils into sexual intercourse in exchange for better grades, gifts or money.” Twenty percent of girls in secondary school have been raped and 45 percent have suffered “sexual violence” within the school setting.

Maternal mortality

It’s a great idea… especially for a country with one of the worst rates of maternal and infant mortality in the world – Free health care for pregnant women, lactating mothers and children under five.

However, since the launch of the program in April 2010, the program has been plagued by disorder, corruption, a lack of monitoring, faulty distribution systems, a shortage of drugs, and an unwillingness of the health sector to change.

Other factors that contribute to maternal mortality have not been addressed… unsafe abortions, FGC, early marriage, teen pregnancies, and a lack of reproductive health education.

Political Violence

From the Report… “The threat of violence and ethnic conflict between supporters of the ruling All People’s Congress (APC) and the main opposition Sierra Leone People’s Party (SLPP) remains a distinct possibility.” Clashes between political opponents continued in 2010. Party and ethnic loyalty divides the country.

Perceived ethnic and political biases in the police and armed forces increased mistrust and hostility. Doubts were raised as to the independence of the army and tensions were reported in the ranks.

Rumours had it that the government has recently recruited “youth leaders” – many who were ex-combatants or ex-militia into the Operational Support Division (OSD) of the police force. Fears were raised that the opposition party might similarly recruit from among the thousands of resettled former fighters. This would pose a grave threat to the country’s security.

Death penalty

Sierra Leone retains the death penalty. No one has been executed in years, however… the death sentence was passed on a member of the military convicted in August 2009. The President has not yet signed the death sentence. Ten men and three women remain on death row.

In Sierra Leone, when one asks, "how're things going?", a very common answer is, "we're trying". And this usually means... "things are really difficult but we're still here".

So, after reading the Amnesty Report 2011, all I can say is "we're still trying".

S/

More investigations...

2011-06-23T22:24:00.001Z

The Anti-Corruption Commission of Sierra Leone continues their investigations... this time it's the "free maternal health care for pregnant women, lactating mothers and children under five" program. This international donor funded program was first announced in April 2010 and has been plagued by problems. Missing drugs. Hospital and doctor fees. Corruption, corruption, etc. It's sickening... literally.

I feel so badly for those women who've gotten pregnant within the last year... I feel horrible for those children under five... and all children, really. I'm sure they're disappointed... as are the UN and other donors who've contributed millions of dollars to this program.

The President, Ernest Bai Koroma, was so excited... and now I'm sure he's embarrassed and pissed off... it's become a national joke... and an international disgrace.

This is one of the problems with "tick box democracy" dictated by international donors and non-governmental organizations.

Other "tick box democracy" initiatives that've gone down the tubes... the Sierra Leone Broadcasting Corporation. Tick... the box... public broadcaster. Yep. But, what a mess... The Anti-Corruption Commission will soon be knocking on their door.

Other boxes ticked... Child Rights Act. Domestic Violence Act. Ticked but not implemented and not enforced by our beloved and hated SL Police Force - voted the most corrupt organization in Sierra Leone. The Anti-Corruption Commission can't even imagine investigating the police... it's THAT bad.

Oh my... what to do?

Hang in there,
S/

Stop Large-Scale Land Acquisitions in Sierra Leone

2011-06-12T09:18:00.000Z

Large-scale land acquisitions by multi-national companies have become commonplace in several regions of Sierra Leone. The report, “Understanding Land Investment Deals in Africa: Sierra Leone”, cites numerous examples of how villages and farmers are being taken advantage of by these large companies. In the report released on June 9, local NGO Green Scenery and international group, the Oakland Institute, urge donors and Government to stop all land negotiations till adequate measures are put in place.

“Land is our heritage,” said Edward Sam, Chair of the Human Rights Commission. “Land is our capital and we should not trade it away for baubles and coins.” Mr. Sam was the keynote speaker and report launcher at Hill Valley Hotel.

Blatant land grabbing is Salone’s “open secret”. “People are aware of what’s going on but refuse to stand up to what these companies call ‘development’ even though it’s detrimental to the people of Sierra Leone,” said Joan Baxter, the report’s primary researcher. She continues, “The Government of Sierra Leone, specifically SLIEPA, are doing everything in their power to attract and protect investors but do nothing to protect the people in the Provinces who rely on small-scale farming to feed their families and communities.”

SLIEPA was established as a project of the International Finance Corporation (IFC) the private sector arm of the World Bank Group. According to the SLIEPA website, “Agricultural labor costs are considerably less than Asia or Latin America. Labor regulation is flexible. Leases on land rand from $5-20 per hectare. There is no charge for water resources. Tax rates are attractive, 0 percent corporate income tax and 0 percent on imported inputs for investors.” Baxter explains, “SLIEPA is telling the world to come and exploit the people, land and resources of this country.”

The report highlights the social, political and economic implications of current land investment trends in Sierra Leone. According to the report, most of the land investment involves commodities to be sold outside Sierra Leone. “These companies are not growing food to feed Sierra Leone,” says Baxter. “They are growing palm oil, sugarcane and other crops for ethanol fuel to maximize their profits.” In early 2011, close to 500,000 ha of farmland had been leased or were under negotiation for lease in Sierra Leone.

Four case studies were examined in the “Understanding Land Investment Deals” report - Addax Bioenergy (Switzerland), Quifel Agribusiness (subsidiary of Quifel Natural Resources, Portugal), Sierra Leone Agriculture (subsidiary CAPARO Renewable Agricultural Developments, UK) and Sepahan Afriquue (Iran). Other companies are involved in large-scale land acquisitions but were not studied in the report.

Several problems are highlighted including the lack of transparency of any land deals going on. Public disclosure of these documents and negotiations is nil. Land leases are negotiated directly with chiefs and landowners who are often not aware of what they’re signing or agreeing to. Foreign investors often employ “agents” to identify available land but the report states these agents take unfair advantage of local traditions and vulnerabilities. Some of these agents are referred to these large companies by SLIEPA.

The Government of Sierra Leone provides a myriad of financial incentives to encourage foreign investment. These include a 10-year tax holiday on agricultural investments in tree crops and rice. Companies won’t pay any tax for ten years or more on the land they occupy. There is no import duty for any of these companies. Sierra Leone allows 100 percent foreign ownership of these companies. And, they allow all profits to be taken out of the country. According to the Minister of Finance and Economic Development, quoted in the report, in his 2011 budget speech, “the existing regimes… and other tax exemptions have tended to severely erode our tax base… and the efficiency of the tax system.”

The regulatory framework for the negotiation of land deals is extremely weak. The guidelines developed by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Food Security (MAFFS) contain huge loopholes and appear to be non-binding. There also appears to be a great deal of confusion about the availability of land. No land surveys exist and no allowances for local farmers are acknowledged. There is a lack of environmental protection, says the report, and projects are being implemented without compliance with the Environmental Protection Agency Act (2008).

The report also calls into question several ties to the Government of Sierra Leone. The Minister of Justice and Attorney General, Franklyn Kargbo, appointed in December 2010, represented landowners in the Addax land deal and represented Quifel in their land deal in Port Loko District. At the time of the negotiations, Mr. Kargbo was an advisor in the Strategy and Policy Unit in the Office of the President.

Many international policies are questioned as well. The World Bank and the International Finance Corporation (IFC) support the agribusiness investment strategy but their own Performance Standards are often ignored.

Sierra Leone is not alone. The issue of land grabbing is occurring across Africa. Along with the country report from Sierra Leone, other reports are being complied including Mali, Ethiopia, Mozambique, Sudan, Tanzania and Zambia.

The comprehensive report ends with a dire warning if things continue. Recent conflicts are noted in areas such as Lungi Acre (Addax) Loko Massama Chiefdom (Quifel) and Madina (Sepahan Afrique) pitting the people in the community against themselves and against these large agribusinesses. Conflicts and disputes over land issues could escalate… and no one wants to see more violence in Sierra Leone.

Still trying to understand,
S/

Stories in production...

2011-06-12T08:49:00.000Z

Part of my "mission" or job here is to work with journalists on stories... features, mainly. And, I have to say, this is one of the most rewarding and challenging aspects to being a Knight Fellow.

Stories currently in production...

The implications of teen pregnancy - death, poverty, social ruin, illiteracy, and so on. It's scary what could happen to a young girl who gets pregnant.

Road safety for children - a very interesting radio piece by a very smart, talented journalist. There are no street signs, no crosswalks, no traffic signals... and thousands of children are hurt in accidents on the roads.

Computer school upgrades - another fearless and dedicated journalist is working on comparing computer schools... some are scams and some are legit but the field is totally unregulated. Some offer "degrees" while others offer "certificates". Most of these are useless and unrecognized by any educational institute or by employers. But, the key to getting a job or getting ahead here is computer knowledge, which makes this a lucrative scam or good business.

Land Grabbing in Sierra Leone. This issue is huge and affects almost every country in Africa. Large, international companies and hedge funds are leasing up the land... to the detriment of the small farmers, villages and communities. It's scary how Sierra Leone is selling itself off. Investment incentives by the Gov include no tax for ten years, 0 duty on imports, no requirements for schools, social responsibility or health services, no labour regulations, etc. etc. Sierra Leone is "open" for abuse. Scary.

More stories are in the works and I'll try to keep things updated. This is a journalists heaven and hell... so many stories... so many nightmares. And, it's incredibly difficult to get the facts. No one's talking about these things... and it's high time they started.

More later,
S/

Looking for Light at the End of the Tunnel

2011-06-12T08:36:00.000Z

Longing for electricity and an Internet connection

Living without power – light, refrigeration, Internet, fans, TV, etc. means adapting to a simpler way of life… and a more difficult existence. I go to bed early and wake when the sun comes up. I eat canned meat and canned vegetables because there’s no power for the small fridge in my apartment. I eat by candlelight or kerosene lanterns. I drink my Nescafe coffee with powdered milk in water heated over a kerosene camp cooker. I inhale countless amounts of carbon monoxide fumes from spewing generators. I beg for time to charge my phone from small shops hosting miniature generators. (1000Le or about .25 per charge). I read by the light of a small, battery-powered headlamp.

At night, Freetown is a dark city. There are no streetlights. Shops are dark. There are no twinkling lights on the horizon from buildings in the city core. Flames from burning garbage at the local dump are sometimes the only visible light. A couple of hotels or bars dot the night with light from noisy generators that compete with loud, electronic music. The hum of distant generators, especially up the hill where the President lives, accompany the slow sweeps of car headlights in the night.

And, I relish the few stolen moments of power whether they’re at SLBC via generator or at a local hotel that usually sparks up their generator during the early morning and later evenings. Electricity is a scarce commodity in Sierra Leone despite the millions of dollars donors have poured into the Bumbuna Hydro-Electric dam and power generation sites. The promise of power is yet to be realized… and it’s a fact of life that no one seems to question – or more accurately, people have lost hope in.

SLBC suffers – along with listeners and viewers – when the electricity from the National Power Authority runs short. (N.P.A., re-named on the street “No Power Altogether” or in Krio, “Na Powa Avva”) Sometimes, because of the shortage of petrol or because the SLBC generator is broken, the airwaves and TV transmission towers fall silent. Static takes over the programming schedule. The voice of the national public broadcaster is quiet… Listeners tune their battery-powered radios to other stations with more reliable supplies of petrol or electricity generation.

To many, this is an appalling situation. And I’d agree except for the fact that this has been a perpetual problem in Sierra Leone – especially since the end of the ten-year civil war. Power was promised by a succession of governments. Donors have supported the idea for almost thirty years. Yet… we continue to exist without reliable power supplies. I can’t help wonder how this country will ever emerge from the dark without massive changes in government, infrastructure, economy, laws, and so on.

I’ve asked myself this question many times, “Is there light at the end of the tunnel?” I believe in the power of the people… I just wish the people had the power.

Hanging in here,
S/

Only in Sierra Leone… I couldn’t make this stuff up!

2011-02-18T21:38:00.000Z

Today (Feb. 18, 2011) is a national holiday – Sierra Leone Armed Forces Day. And, in typical Sierra Leonean fashion things were a bit chaotic, disorganized and just plain strange and wonderful.

The day started with a march along the famous Siaka Stevens Street in downtown Freetown. Thousands of soldiers, police, firefighters, organizations, unions, nurses, doctors and school children marched past dignitaries including President Koroma standing on the balcony of the Law Courts. The parade was to march down Siaka Stevens Street to a gathering at the National Stadium. Sounds grand, doesn’t it?

As the parade, the President, Ministers and dignitaries arrived at the Stadium compound, they were turned away by a cleaner and security guard who said, “no arrangements had been made, and therefore no one was allowed inside.” Oh my… the palaver that followed… but no one entered the Stadium. Shocking?!

The parade, including dignitaries, got back into their vehicles and drove off leaving the parade to meander, disburse and disband. Apparently, everyone assumed the parade was supposed to go to the Stadium… but no one told anyone that that was not the plan. Goodness… I couldn’t make this up!

Then, the President and a whole raft of dignitaries including foreign ambassadors, arrived at the Wilberforce Military Barracks to open a medical “store” and mortuary. These facilities were funded by African Minerals, London Mining, et al. (A suspicious lot to begin with.) The mortuary was officially named after a retired Major of the SL Armed Forces who’d died two years ago. Interestingly, the Chair of the opening ceremony cited the reasons for the official naming. He went on to describe the life of the Major who’d died… and described how the past military mortuary lost his dead body! He described past experiences at the military mortuary as “undignified, disrespectful and sometimes disgraceful.”

The ceremony Chair assured soldiers, families and dignitaries that with the help of donors the dead would be treated better – hopefully. Goodness… I couldn’t make this stuff up!

Holiday for most… not me.
S/

On The Editorial Side of SLBC

2011-02-01T22:00:00.000Z

The programming at SLBC continues to evolve… We’ve got new shows, new times and a whole crew of new staff.

Let’s look at radio first.

According to a “2010 Media Use Survey”, commissioned by Fondation Hirondelle and Cotton Tree News (CTN) the peak times for radio listening are between 6.00 and 7.30 a.m. and between 6.00 and 8.30 p.m. That’s no real surprise… and the most important, most reliable and most used source of information for Sierra Leoneans is the radio.

Other statistics from that same report, prepared by research consultant, Graham Mytton, include:

• Radio is listened to by 82% of Sierra Leoneans, 5% more than in 2008 (the last batch of statistics)

• 86% of men and 78% of women are listeners; both figures have increased since 2008.

• Radio listening is at the highest levels in Moyamba, Pujehun, Tonkolili and Kenema Districts. It is lowest in Koinadugu and Kailahun (where transmitters continue to have technical problems)

• Well over half the radio audience did not go to school.

• Most listening is at home. 75% of the listening audience have a radio set at home.

Unfortunately, the program development in radio has been bested by developments on the television side of broadcasting… an interesting and perhaps misdirected approach… but still, “we’re working on it”, as they say.

“Old” radio programs include the former flagship, UN radio program, Teabreak, which airs at 9:00 a.m. and continues to host important news and current affairs issues. It’s probably the most listened to radio program of the day.

Other programs include, Nightline with DJ Bass, On the Spot, Salone Satellite, The Machine, Atunda Ayenda and several other local language programs. Nightline is an interesting mix of “youth programming” featuring local musicians and local issues. It runs from 11:00 p.m. through till about 3:00 a.m. On The Spot and Salone Satellite are news programs that feature reports from the Provinces… and “live to air” reporting from events and activities – usually government-related or NGO workshop oriented.

Television broadcast has seen the greatest change.

From Graham’s “Media Use Survey” we’ve learned a thing or two. Most TV viewing is in the evening. It peaks between 7.30 and 9.30 p.m. That might not be news to most… but here’s what else we’ve learned about the “new” medium of SLBC TV.

• 26% watch TV at least sometimes, an increase from 16% in 2008.

• Viewing is highest in Freetown where 29% ever watch and lowest in Bonthe and Pujehun where less than 1% ever watch.

• Most viewers watch TV in the homes of others or at community centers, bars or cafes. Only 9% of all viewers watch at home.

• Most TV viewers have at least some education; even so, 39% of the total TV audience never went to school.

• Only 26% of all TV viewers, 7% of all respondents, had seen TV on the day before the interview.

The new crop of TV shows include, Tell it to Rachel, Chatroom with Ellen, National Encounter, U Sabi Dance (outside producer), and Sunday Night Variety Show. Now, we’re a long way from HBO, NBC or even Fox TV but it’s a start.

These new programs tend to focus on “gossip” or “congasa” (in Kreole) and are fairly popular. Tell it to Rachel recently featured in-studio guests talking about cheating partners, best friends, make-up tips and even a segment on domestic violence. It’s mostly “light fare” to be sure… but by all accounts via call-ins and text messages, this is what’s popular. Chatroom with Ellen is much the same… a female host interviews friends on topics such as online dating, best friends and relationships and so on. Both of these shows feature “the red couch”, in-studio interviews and call-ins. I can’t say this is the best of TV but again, “we’re trying”.

A new addition to the TV line-up is a program called National Encounter, which features in-studio guests hosted by the Head of Television, Sam Valcalcel. National Encounter is supposed to feature informed debate on issues of national importance… and it follows the same formula as others – studio guests and call-in opinions.

SLBC TV retained several shows from previous incarnations of broadcasting including, Watin de Docta Say, a Kreole language show on health. It’s unfortunately another live, in-studio discussion program – with a doctor – hosted by the previous Head of Administration. A great deal is possible with this type of show and we’ll eventually get to the point where we actually go out to discuss health issues with people on the street.

SLBC journalists do get out and around and one of the TV shows that’s immensely popular is Viewfinder, a local language program that features news and information from the villages and towns across the country. The camera work is shaky and the sound is often inadequate but there’s a sense of “our country” in all episodes.

Still the reigning champion – from an informal survey – is the half hour program of birthdays and obituary announcements. These paid-for announcements seem to be at the heart of a lot of Sierra Leoneans. “It’s a way for us to learn about each other,” says one avid viewer. And, with such a strong familial connection or village connection between so many Freetownians, it’s a way of finding out what’s happening with family and friends.

As I say, we’re a long way off from real public service broadcasting… but “we’re trying” and experimentation seems to be the modus operandi for now. There’s no question we have a long way to go… and one day… we’ll get there.

Still standing... and still trying...
S/

‘Tis the season…

2010-12-22T18:03:00.000Z

I’ve asked around… and there has never been snow in Freetown. There has never been a Cmas Eve visit down a chimney from the Coca-Cola version of Santa Claus. There are no reindeer. No pond or side street has ever frozen over for an impromptu game of hockey. There’s no ice on the streets – except in the freezers of Freetown’s supermarkets. No one’s shovelling his or her driveways. No one has to scrape the windows of their cars in the morning. The airport has never been “snowed-in”. I don’t see houses decorated with Cmas lights. And, the idea of a snowman is a distant “Hollywood-style” movie recollection…

Sierra Leone is an interesting place to be for the holidays. People are excited… and the mood on the street has definitely changed. There are more people around – those that arrived from the UK or the US before they shut Heathrow and family from the provinces who’ve come to visit relatives in the big city. There’s more traffic. There are more trader stalls on the roads – adding to the congestion, of course. The many Christian churches have ramped up their services. “The Church of the Flaming Battleaxe Evangelical Prophetic Bible Word of the Risen God” (or something similar) is holding services at the National Stadium starting at midnight and running till 5:00 a.m. Shiny garlands of silver, red and gold overflow the baskets that street sellers carry on their heads. One can buy a used string of Cmas lights while sitting in one’s car or taxi from young men in shorts and t-shirts. And, I even saw a Cmas pudding for sale in one of the markets… (“best before” date – sometime in 2009, which might be dangerous)

There isn’t the mass hysteria of shopping, running around picking up last minute gifts, pressure, consumerism, stress, etc. And, I didn’t hear my first Cmas carol till well into December. Right now… three days before Cmas, I can listen to school-age children singing carols in the church around the corner from my apartment. I watch the parade of decorated, honking cars gliding through traffic signalling another wedding ceremony. I smile when a market woman wishes me “season’s greetings”. I’ve attended the first ever SLBC Winter Carnival. And, I enjoy a very bad brass band (think grade seven band class) tinker and blast their way through a rendition of “O Come All Ye Faithful” as they stroll from house to house in my neighbourhood.

I’ve been asking around about Sierra Leonean Cmas traditions… and it seems there are a few. The first response to my informal survey, of course, is the idea of spending time with family. Cmas day is about staying at home, eating jollof rice, pepper soup and maybe some fish or chicken if one can afford it. Many people will watch movies – available from the copyright pirates on the streets. And, most people will rest…

It seems some tribes also have different traditions. My Krio friends, for example, will visit with large extended families on Boxing Day. Some of my Mende friends will do a project together like adding blocks to a building, painting gates or renovating a compound wall. And many of my Temne friends will travel to their villages in the provinces taking provisions and supplies that aren’t otherwise available.

Interestingly, I’ve been given a number of Cmas cards… with pictures of snow-covered, evergreen trees, Santa Claus, Cmas wreaths and even one with a decorated Cmas tree in front of a fireplace surrounded by presents. I can’t help but think these are Hallmark hand-me-downs or dollar store cast offs. Of course, the poetic, religious verses and ever-present references to “persperidy, famelee and gud helth” are always “interesting” to read.

The tribe of ex-pats, development workers, UN staff, and NGO folks have generally ducked out of the country returning to their homes in the UK, US, or Europe for Cmas. Flights, when they could get out of London and in to/out of Sierra Leone were fully booked… and the airport and helipad were abuzz with English-speaking, “pink” people.

I miss some things about our Canadian Cmas season… the snow, seeing my breath as I dash between the heated house to a frigid car, watching “Grapes/Cherry” on Hockey Night in Canada, the decorations, visiting and sharing dinner with friends, a snowfall at night under a full moon, warm fires in a stone fireplace and family, of course. What I’ll miss most on Cmas day is the traditional turkey dinner – with mashed sweet potato, gravy, green beans and Brussels sprouts… Mom’s dinners were always outstanding.

While I’m missing some things… I’m learning about and living with so many others. Sierra Leone is a very friendly, open and invigorating place to be – despite the lack of hockey, maple syrup, ice-covered lakes, snowy lanes and parkas. This Cmas season will feature hot pepper soup, cassava leaf stew, rice, rest and some time with good friends. What more could a guy hope for – for Cmas?

Merry Cmas to all and to all a good night...
Yours
S/

Greetings...

2010-10-20T21:35:00.004Z

Hello folks... Sorry for the disappearing act. I've been busy - to understate the obvious. Things in Sierra Leone are still pretty crazy, fascinating, frustrating awesome and sometimes just plain unimaginable.

But, I'm still here... and still trying my best. You'll notice a couple - three new posts, which I'll direct you to - down there on the right. I'll continue to update things - when I can, if I can, however I can... depending on...

Hope all's well,

I remain your humble servant,
S/

On public service broadcasting...

2010-10-20T20:48:00.003Z

Public broadcasters encourage access to and participation in all aspects of public life. They develop knowledge, broaden horizons and enable people to better understand themselves by better understanding the world and others.

Public service broadcasting is a meeting place – where all citizens are welcome and considered equals. It is an information and education tool, accessible to all and meant for all, whatever their social or economic status. Public service broadcasting ensures the public’s right to receive a wide diversity of independent and non-partisan information and ideas. Its mandate is to promote information exchanges and cultural development. It can also help to promote a sense of national identity, foster democratic and other important social values and serve the needs of minority and other specialized interest groups. Public broadcasting must also appeal to the imagination, and entertain. And it does so with the utmost concern for quality broadcasting.

The challenge for the public service broadcaster is to place the audience at the centre of its universe. The audience comes first. This includes believing and trusting in the audience. It means engaging with the audience through different programs but also engaging in direct dialogue with them, being close to their minds and hearts, knowing their priorities, helping them understand the decisions that are made and defending their right to information.

There’s no single international standard or set of guidelines when it comes to public service broadcasting but at least six characteristics have emerged over the years.

1. Universality – services are available and accessible to the entire population in terms of content (languages) and technology, be it radio or television.

2. Diversity – offering a broad program range providing a consistent level of technical and editorial quality that’s educational and informative. Diversity in programming ensures that the public has access to information about a wide variety of issues and concerns.

3. Independence from both the State and commercial interests - programming decisions should be made on the basis of professional criteria, news value and the public’s right to know, rather than by pressure from political or commercial interests.

4. Impartiality of programs - Impartiality is closely related to independence. A public service broadcaster does not promote a certain position or support a particular political party. Exceptions to this impartiality guideline are made on important development issues such as health, education, security and democratic principles.

5. Concern for national identity and culture – in part, the role of public service broadcasters is to build a sense of national identity, belonging and participation. All cultures, past and present, tribes and ethnicities should be reflected in the multicultural nature of broadcasting in Sierra Leone.

6. Financed directly by the public – public service broadcasters must maintain their independence and focus on the public interest. Funding must be public and not tied to editorial decisions or political persuasions. Public broadcasters must be open, transparent and accountable.

Public service broadcasters should also be setting standards – offering a higher standard of journalism, production, programming and editorial content, which contributes to media development throughout the community.

There are some clear and succinct ideas, which can be made about public service broadcasting:

It is for everyone
It has a cultural value
It guarantees a fuller choice
It serves citizens not shareholders
Its character is reflected in comprehensive schedules, not in individual programs
It reflects and supports democracy.

Thus, the programming schedules of a public broadcaster must have:

news, which is independent, comprehensive and authoritative
a commitment to current affairs and investigative programming
a range of documentary programs
drama which reflects the reality of life in the community
entertainment which also reflects the reality and interests of people
sport, as an important part of the cultural expression of the people
programming for children, recognizing their particular needs and concerns
educational content
material which reflects the differences of urban and rural life and addresses regional distinctiveness
acknowledgement of the traditions and beliefs of the audience
recognition and active reflection of the language traditions among the people

Trying to keep things "public"

Out with the old and in with the new…

2010-10-20T20:36:00.001Z

The “rescue team” of thirty-five active, young volunteers – men and women – clambered out of the poda-podas (converted mini-vans) sporting white t-shirts reading “Support SLBC” early on Saturday morning (October 16th). Armed with brooms, dustpans, shovels and enthusiasm, their tools were put to good use in SLBC’s first ever “clean-and-tidy”. And, this “big sweep” was long overdue.

Gbanabom Hollowell, SLBC’s Director General, organized a cleaning tour de force with local NGO “Big Brotha/Big Sista” to unload, unpack, route out and sweep, tidy and get-rid-of the years of accumulated junk that has laid dormant for up to thirty years in the hallowed halls, unused store rooms, dilapidated studios and crowded offices of SLBC.

The dust flew. Unused, locked doors were burst open. Dark, dilapidated darkrooms were flooded with light. Years of decay were peeled back… revealing hundreds of broken televisions, fractured freezers, scrapped tech-junk, speakers with missing parts, crates, equipment shells, broken cameras, inoperative mixers, failed wiring and tons of scrap… junk… clutter… garbage… litter and waste!

It’s a new era at SLBC. This clean up will hopefully symbolize a newfound attitude. SLBC will no longer be a depository for waste and stale thinking. It’s time for freshness – in thinking, programming, staffing, journalism and professionalism. Out with the old and in with the new…

“Elvis is in the building…” Welcome Gbanabom!

2010-10-20T20:26:00.001Z

Gbanabom (Elvis) Hallowell was officially welcomed to the fold at SLBC as the new, permanent, Board approved, presidentially appointed Director General on October 1, 2010. After months of application forms, interviews, “politicking”, review committees and appointment processes, Gbanabom’s presence is a very welcome sign that things are moving forward in the transition of state-owned SLBS to the public broadcaster SLBC. Signs of progress can be few and far between but this giant step is hugely significant.

Gbanabom is a Sierra Leonean with many years experience in the media. He’s a writer, poet, musician, activist, lecturer and political commentator. He’s been around the block, as they say. He’s lead NGOs, social movements, activist organizations and human rights groups. He’s very well known throughout the country and comes from a long line of teachers and commentators.

Gbanabom started his educational career here in Sierra Leone, moved to the U.S. to pursue degrees and masters programs and now he’s a PhD candidate. He’s written at least two books that I know of… and so many newspaper columns I’ve lost count. He’s taught thousands of students and continues to give public lectures on leadership, development and the media in Sierra Leone. He’s politically astute. He’s genuine. He’s smart. And, he’s very well connected.

I should add that Gbanabom is my former boss at JHR-Journalists for Human Rights and I consider him to be a good friend. His new job won’t be easy… and there will be significant challenges. But, I’m very pleased to be working alongside him once again.

Content is king...

2010-06-14T17:00:00.000Z

Knight Fellowship Blog - Number One

Content is still king...

They (the techie-geeks and widget-wacks) talk about the internet being “in the clouds” but really the words and pictures we put online/out-there are as immoveable as stone. They will last. They will outlive us. People far-and-wide will read them. Societies will be affected by them… and they will make a difference.

From words carved in stone to papyrus scrolls and then to moveable type, words and pictures have travelled and evolved. What remains is the fact that what we – as journalists and now as Knight International Journalism Fellows – produce will bring substantial impact to our respective host countries. Think of cave paintings in South Africa… Think of sacred scrolls from the Nile River area… They still exist! Why, because content is king – what we write or broadcast is the most important piece of this communications evolution. How we disseminate our material is almost immaterial.

In 2010, we can uplink, upload/download, e-send, e-think and transmit faster than the blink of an eye – in some parts of the world. Egypt, Malaysia and possibly Peru come to mind. Sierra Leone, Malawi and Haiti are different stories.

In Sierra Leone, a neighbourhood blackboard listing headlines of the day is one way of transmitting information. Mobile phone calls between family members tell stories of success and sickness. Battery-powered radios are gathering points for political debate. Internet cafés (when they work) are hubs for Diaspora and distant family connections.

The integral element of any communication whether electronic or analogue is what the message contains and the relationship between sender and receiver.

The 2010 Knight International Journalism Fellows, whether via satellite, e-communications, radio waves or newsprint, are bringing the world together – one story at a time. This will make a difference – just as the stone tablet and parchment collections did thousands of years ago.

The passion of politics...

2010-05-28T22:17:00.000Z

Student elections here at Fourah Bay College, University of Sierra Leone (where I teach part-time) have once again turned violent. Two years ago was bad... last year was relatively "okay" but this year it's bad - again.

Last night, at the presentation of candidate manifestos, things were passionate and heated between the "white camp" (supported by the national APC party) and the "black camp" (supported by the national opposition SLPP). Fights were intermixed with dancing, shouting, posturing and promoting.

Today, voting day, things are riotous. Election results haven't been announced but the passion has erupted into violence and riots. Students are on the rampage... and I'm very worried about "my" great group of students who are trapped behind riot police lines and barricades. I have my fingers crossed... and will venture onto the campus in the morning... Good grief - the face of young politics can be ugly.

Politics is everywhere... for good and for bad.
S/

Good news...

2010-05-15T14:48:00.000Z

I might as well announce it now… It looks like I’ll be staying in Freetown, Sierra Leone for the next year to 18 months as a Knight Fellow – on a journalism fellowship out of the International Center for Journalism in Washington… Yes, very prestigious… and I’m so pleased. I’ll be working with the transition of SLBS (state-owned broadcaster) to SL Broadcasting Corporation – a public broadcaster. I’ll help through the 50th anniversary of Sierra Leone’s independence in 2011 and hopefully through the next general election in 2012. It’s a tremendous opportunity to be involved in a historic, never-before-done project in Africa. Should be “interesting”…

I'd applied to the Knight Fellowship program waaayyyy back in August 2009 and am just now seeing some fruits to that labour or results from that application.

This is from their website…

The Knight International Journalism Fellowships make tangible changes that improve the quality and free flow of news in the public interest around the world. Funded by the John S. and James L. Knight Foundation , international media professionals work in countries where there are opportunities to promote reliable, insightful journalism that holds officials accountable. Knight Fellows are establishing new journalism associations, launching journalism schools, creating online databases to track corruption, establishing news delivery services via cell phone and creating digital platforms to share content. With funding from the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, Knight Fellows are developing a corps of journalists in Sub-Saharan Africa whose work is leading to better public policies and a better quality of life. The program’s Health Journalism Fellowships help media in five countries produce in-depth and investigative coverage of health issues such as malaria, HIV/AIDS and tuberculosis. The new Africa Development Journalism Fellows will work with journalists in four countries to give them skills to report on poverty-related issues such as agriculture, rural development, sanitation and microfinance.

Some other background:

I've been in sporadic contact with the Knight Fellowship folks over the intervening months as my work with jhr- journalists for human rights, and on the transition from the state-owned SLBS to a public broadcast corporation has progressed. It's obviously taken many months and hours of work to get the process to this stage - meaning the government of Sierra Leone has passed the Bill to create the broadcasting corporation, a Board of Directors has been nominated (the Chair appointed by the President), some UN consultations and funding proposals created, technical consultations, etc. etc.

We (a whole bunch of folks from the UN, BBC, Fondation Hirondelle, DW in Germany, etc.) finally have a plan, which should be finalized with UN Radio, SLBC, the government, etc. in mid-June. That "plan" will be the basis for the re-structuring and funding proposals which will go to the IMF, World Bank, Peace-Building Fund of the UN, etc.

In this plan, a position of "training director" or "training facilitator" was created... to help coordinate technical, managerial, board, editorial, corporate and public training... everything from classroom programs to teach basic typing skills to mentorship models for journalists in the field. It's a very big and important position in which I'd coordinate trainers, programs, etc. and also do hands-on training. I'd also be developing policies for the corporation around production values, ethical principles, codes of conduct, and so on.

The new broadcasting corporation, with the transition management team, wants someone with independence yet with inside knowledge of the field, the media environment in Sierra Leone, the people, the politics, etc. And, that's where the Knight Fellowship comes in... I'd be able to maintain financial, political and editorial independence because the International Center for Journalism/Knight Foundation would be paying my salary and expenses. The training position would be for a year or more... with the plan to create a sustainable foundation/policies to the training of staff, Board, etc. In other words, I'd be creating the policies and then mentoring someone in the personnel dept. to take on this role.

I'm really looking forward to this work... not just for the prestige of working with the Knight folks but also because I firmly believe in this project. It's huge... going from "state-owned" (think dictatorial USSR or communist china) to public broadcaster - (think CBC and BBC). And, it's "history in the making" - literally. Quite exciting, I’m sure you’d agree.

So, there's lots going on... and huge opportunities afoot.

I'm hoping to pass through Toronto on my way to Washington for an orientation week with the International Center for Journalism but I don't have exact dates or plans yet... They'll come shortly and I'll be in touch.

Wow... this is exciting.
More later,
Stephen

One Year

2010-05-11T13:57:00.003Z

It’s been a year… and sometimes I wonder where the time’s gone. At other times I dread the slow ticking of the clock and languid fluttering of calendar pages. A year ago, I left Calgary, drove across Canada to Toronto, boarded a plane and arrived in Freetown, Sierra Leone. And now, I can’t resist a bit of reflection – on a year in Africa – on a year away from home.

What strikes me first are the significant changes I’ve gone through on a personal level. Yes, you can teach an old dog new tricks… and I’m certainly still learning. That’s good… I’ve learned to be more patient, more resilient, more assertive, more direct, more in control – while at the same time feeling out of control most of the time. I’ve learned to see the world in a slightly different way. I’m positive… about a lot of things. I’m sure of several things I wasn’t sure of before. And, I’m directing things I wasn’t directing before… Perhaps it’s confidence. Perhaps it’s maturity... although I think I still have a lot of growing up left to do.

A year ago, I came to Sierra Leone as a facilitator/journalist to work with local reporters and media development folks on human rights awareness issues. I’m still doing that – now as Country Director. I still consider myself a journalist although I’m a “non-practicing/teaching” journalist. My circle of friends has changed. My connections to the world have changed. My living arrangements have changed significantly. And, it’s true… change is sometimes a good thing.

My life is almost completely different than it was a year ago. I won’t bore you with the comparisons… but rather I’d like to reflect on things as they are now.

I sleep under a mosquito net… sweating into pillows of chewed foam salvaged from the insides of discarded car seats. It’s “recycling” to the max yet when it’s a necessity it’s called “making due or making a living”. Everything is well-used, used again and then recycled into something else. I covet power… especially when I can turn on a fan and sleep in the breeze of circling blades.

I still have my morning cup of coffee but it’s now Nescafe instant with powdered milk. I wake at 6:00 a.m. and sit outside on the verandah watching the sunrise through the coconut trees and palm leaves in my fenced, razor-wired and glass shard-topped courtyard. I shower in cold water, or sometimes rely on bucket-baths, which isn’t so bad when the temperature hits 90 degrees by 7:00 a.m. I use a strong anti-bacterial soap… because even minor infections here can be deadly, as I’ve recently learned.

My days are varied – sometimes I’m teaching at Fourah Bay College, formerly the “Athens of West Africa” and now a long, long way from being the “Athens of anything”. It’s disheartening but also incredibly rewarding… influencing the next generation of reporters and journalists before they develop the predominant bad habits of those “downtown” media folks. I use chalkboards and white boards while students sit in dilapidated desks and chairs without backs. And today… we had to close the windows because the rain came so hard – and loud. Gotta love “higher” education in Sierra Leone.

I climb the stairs and hill out of my Freetown “oasis” to catch an okada (motorcycle taxi) at the junction of Aberdeen Road and Kosy Williams Dr. where I can also get “diamonds” (little hard candies) or a dried fish and gravy sandwich from a woman named Boah. My regular bike-rider’s name is Mohamed and he’s a very young guy who shows up precisely in time to usher me through traffic to work on time or class on time. I’ve acquired a reputation here as the “white-okada-rider in the African dress” – no, not literally a dress… but I regularly wear African suits – long shirts down to my knees and matching pants.

I have to say, I’ve made progress on my attempts at institutionalizing punctuality. Most folks rely on “BMT” or “black man’s time” which can be either ten minutes or three hours late. It’s a very common term/condition around here and it’s frustrating to this punctually-compulsive Canadian. The problem is… I never know when I can be late… When I’m in charge – lecturing or leading a workshop – I’m on time – and my students know this… and make every attempt to be in class when I start. But, when I’m a participant, I have to gauge what the event is, who’s running it, who’ll be there, etc. For example… if it’s a local event – I can be an hour late. If it’s an event hosted by the BBC or the UN, I can be ten minutes to a half hour late.

I was invited to a wedding reception recently and the invitation said, “Reception, arrival of bride and groom – 7:30 p.m.” Well, not gauging time and not understanding the tradition, I was there at 7:30 – only to wait till 10:00 p.m., when I couldn’t stay awake any longer… and headed home. I trust the reception went on at some point… and hopefully people showed up. When I left there were only about 10% of the guests sitting at long, lonely tables – wondering if or when we could crack open the bottles of wine.

Riding an okada is an interesting experience… we’re often on the “wrong” side of the road – the faded, sometimes non-existent lines are merely guidelines… Or we’re zipping between lanes of traffic – one coming towards me and the other travelling in the same direction – but usually at a standstill because the roads are so congested. I’ve taken to reading the fronts of the approaching poda-podas – minivans crammed to the rafters with people, chickens, fish, charcoal, etc. The poda drivers are very creative when it comes to painted slogans… and I have to smile as “John 3:16” or “Allah be Prazed” comes barrelling towards me. My thinking is I’ll never end up a hood ornament on a poda-poda with “God is the lit”, “Praze Allah”, “Shine the lite” painted on the front hood.

Okadas are the quickest, riskiest and most exposed form of transport around… but they are essential to the transportation community. Without them, the roads would be even more congested… and it would literally take me 1.5 hours in a taxi to get to the office where it takes me 20 minutes on the back of a bike. Of course the rains will dampen my okada-spirits significantly… and I’ll have to resort to a crowded, steamy, shitty little taxi when it’s pouring with rain.

It’s true what they say about “sweet Salone”… the people are incredibly friendly. I’ve been welcomed into people’s homes, lives, workplaces and families. It’s remarkable how willing most Sierra Leoneans are to share their lives. I’ve met some wonderful local folks… Elvis, for sure, our initial contact with everything Sierra Leonean – a very good man who knows everyone who’s anyone. Momoh, who works in the JHR office and continues to amaze me with his stamina for my frustration and wonderment at passing parades, the VP who’s motorcade zips by, the prisoners transported to the courts and back to Pademba Road prison, and other mundane things that happen in front of the jhr office. My landlords, Mala and Kishen, who welcomed three wayward journalists off the street a year ago, into their compound… although I’m still waiting (6 months now) for them to fix the mini-fridge. They are lovely people and upon Kishen’s return from a recent business trip, he surprised me with a gift set of “smelly stuff” – shower gel and a spray-thing of perfume. Guess I don’t smell too good lately… and he’s trying to help.

I arrived in Freetown with four others… trainers and journalists from Canada, the U.K. and from India. It was a pleasure getting to know these brilliant, talented, hard-working and enthusiastic folks. Yes, I became a bit of a “father-figure” to the group but it was all very good… Staying out late with Jordan, “the popular guy”. Commiserating with Chris-Bo over stomach issues and malaria. Talking photography and journalism with Allison. Trying to keep up to Sulak and her busy life. It was good… and although a couple of folks had to leave early, it was still a great experience. I’m thankful to the group for supporting and for being here.

People come and go in Sierra Leone – UN missions change, NGOs recruit and young people leave for greener pastures, contracts end, contracts begin, etc. etc. And, with this successive turnover of folks around here I’ve had a number of other roomies with whom I’ve become close friends. Lyla, Greg, Leah and Collin, Paul and Caroline, et al are wonderful people… whom I’m lucky to have gotten to know.

Yes, my life is almost totally different than it was a year ago…

· I eat rice everyday – sometimes twice a day

· Cassava leaf, potato leaf and groundnuts are my staples

· Mango season is a celebration of juicy, ripe, delicious fruits

· Nescafe I can live without… but can’t live without…

· Fish – from giant barracuda to snapper to “minas”

· Buying lunch from a bowl on the street from a dubious “chop shop”

· Loud distorted music from “sets”

· Star beer… locally brewed and dangerous after two

· African peppers… enough to kill parasites, tingle the tongue and feel the next day

· Powdered milk – where are the cows?

· Buying provisions from Aminata and the Aberdeen market

· Street stalls that sell everything from air fresheners to steering wheel covers

· Beer and “burgers” (so-called) at Roy’s Beach Bar – close enough to the Atlantic to taste the salt water.

· Watching Premier League “football” at Alex’s Sports bar – or at a shack in my neighbourhood

· Malaria – and learning to become a mosquito hunter

· Mould on everything during the rainy season

· Police who openly and actively take bribes at almost every street corner

· International phone calls that won’t go through or can’t come in

· Struggling with hand-washing laundry

· Politics in everything… if it’s not political – it’s not news and not life

· Generators that don’t work… and inferior products dumped into Africa

· “Jonx” or second-hand goods from the west – thank you Value Village and Sally Ann

· Heat rash – sweating – carrying a towel at all times – fans…

· Tan lines

· No sweets – no twix bars or snickers bars

· In your face religion

· Horrible journalism

· Paperwork

· The UN – UNDP – UNPBF – UNIFEM – UNICEF, et al

· Beaches and oceans…

Life is different… and the biggest adjustment of all – unreliable power and SLOOOWWW internet connections.

I’ve written blogs, reports, financial statements, letters, grant proposals, protest letters, journal entries and even the odd recommendation letter. It’s been an “interesting” year… and there’s more to come.

Never too old to learn a new trick or two… and I’ve learned a lot this past year. Thanks for coming along with me…

Independence Day - April 27, 2010

2010-05-04T07:49:00.000Z

Sierra Leone celebrated it's 49th anniversary of independence from "our colonial masters", the British, on Tuesday, April 27, 2010. A national holiday... and a day of celebration, rumination and anticipation. The word on the streets - and from the President himself - "Wait. Things are getting better."

I spent the day at the National Stadium photographing events for the Ministry of Tourism - in preparation for the big 50th anniversary planned for 2011. Here, President Ernest Bai Koroma, inspects troops on the field of the stadium.

Later that day, the stadium cleared in preparations for a live concert featuring Akon, a Senegalese hip-hop performer now living large in the U.S. Of course, it rained... and after sitting for hours, soaking wet in the stands, I went home... but did get to the concert the following afternoon.

Akon was followed by several local performers who danced, lip-synced and gyrated around the stage to the delight of thousands... An event like this is rare - and so is the opportunity to celebrate something positive in Sierra Leone. It was good to see...

Still hopeful... and still working hard.
Yours,
Stephen

Maclean’s Missives

2010-04-11T13:18:00.002Z

Sometimes word from “home” is so nice… E-mail letters are what keep me going here in Freetown. News, gossip, family updates, weather reports, etc. are welcome reminders of who’s who, what’s up and where’s where.

Imagine my surprise when a magazine-seller approached me in Crown Bakery, one of the most “western” retreats in the city, and held aloft a copy of Maclean’s magazine – the March 29th issue, no less. And, according to the cover, this one was a “Spring Double Issue”. Mr. Magazine-seller knows I’m Canadian and knows how I love to devour magazines. A “double-whammy” for him and a sure sale. Not even the depiction of a plaintive, bleeding Christ figure detoured me. And neither did the bare-all Martha Stewart book review highlighted at the top of the cover. Both things, I might add, that would usually turn my stomach.

I regularly buy “Focus on Africa” and “Africa Report” both published by U.K. companies. I sometimes buy “Newsweek” – usually two-three weeks out of date. And, I occasionally stumble across old issues of the “Economist” – a real treat. The local magazines, “Newday” and “SierraEye” are so bad… I end up regretting the small purchase price. I buy them to support the industry and quickly pass them along to word-hungry security guards or Class Six Secondary School students who are desperate for reading materials.

This issue of Maclean’s was only a week out of date… and bore the subscriber’s address as Leaside Park Dr., Toronto. I didn’t ask who or how or when… but quickly scratched together the 10,000Le he wanted and stashed the magazine into my briefcase… careful not to fold the cover, tear a page or wrinkle the binding.

I was going to savour this one… I was going to devour it’s contents over time… usually late at night, reading by the light of my headlamp, sitting under my mosquito netting, sweating and salivating over my deliciously Canadian magazine sweet-treat.

A week or so after my purchase, the magazine is wrinkled, folded, dog-eared, thumbed and fingered… and barely hanging together.

I think I read every word… even the ads, something I wouldn’t normally do. I read with compassion the story of Bernice Packford, who thinks she’s had enough of this life. I caught the controversy over the women’s and men’s Olympic coverage on the letters to the editor/mailbag pages. To Loblaws, Sobey’s, IGA, Foodland, etc. – isn’t it obvious that the price of a plastic grocery bag should be $1.00 – universally applied? That’s the only way to “encourage” environmentalism – via the pocketbook.

Is it really “good news” that Margaret Atwood sang? And, why should we care what she does with Olivia Newton-John? It certainly is “bad news” that Pringles was pulled off the shelves for suspected salmonella contamination. Interestingly, we can buy Pringles here – usually stale-dated, and I’m pretty sure those “maybe contaminated” tubes of tubers will wind up on store shelves here in West Africa.

I was shocked by Linda Frum’s article on the trouble at “Rights and Democracy”, “Canada’s publicly funded human rights organization”. What did she say? Eleven million dollars? Good gawd. I work with a human rights/media development organization and I’ve never seen the kind of money she talks about… Millions? Tens of thousands? Hundreds of thousands? Yeah right… Here I sit in Freetown, which would surely qualify as a “most deserving region of the world” and I’ve yet to see the kind of money Frum mentions for conferences, discretionary funds, managerial laptops or administration. Let me guess… of the eleven million dollar budget, less than 10% actually goes to those regions deemed deserving.

And, Paul Wells piece on “Harper’s Right Turn” incensed me and not just because I’m a left-leaning, slightly socialist journalist. How far right can we get? It’s a scary thought… Thanks Paul. But, it was good to see our “sacred” postal system illustrated by the likes of Andrew Tolson… who photographically captures the essence of how dire the system has become - unprofessional, lackadaisical, unresponsive and a behemoth/albatross around our necks. Time to do something about this place… the postal system, which I love so much, needs a massive upgrade in attitude and attention, in my mind.

Here I sit in post-conflict Sierra Leone… and imagine my surprise when I read about the (alleged) Liberian warlord living free and safe in Canada. Hmmm, on the diamonds from Sierra Leone perhaps? It’s a well-known fact here that the Liberian/Sierra Leonean war, through the 90s and into the millennium, was about diamonds, drugs, power and greed. And, we’re still seeing the effects. I attended the opening of the Charles Taylor trial at the Hague, via video conference at the Special Court of Sierra Leone. And, from what I learned, Taylor still controls a great deal of the wealth and power in Liberia. That’s a scary thought… but so is the notion that Canada has become a “haven” for a well-known killer and warlord. Where is Bill Horace now? Who’s investigating this further? It’s the tip of the iceberg… or, as they say here, the green snake in the grass. Time to look (carefully) deeper, in my mind.

Gay Republicans, bankrupt Greece, banning bluefin tuna, sandwiches, fashion runways, Activa yogurt and meatless Mondays were all great reads… from newsmakers to women in metal… some things I cared about deeply and others… well, no.

The Back Pages… I had to wonder who or why any reviewer much less a wily consumer would ever wade through almost 400 pages of bitchy, bare-all gossip about Martha Stewart. Why bother? Because she’s “famous”? I think the book industry can do without such blather, thank you very much. Kudos to Anne Kingston for getting through the book… and warning us all to stay the heck away. And, speaking of the book industry… way to go Penguin! Good effort but more work is required. Perhaps Penguin should read the piece about “curl maintenance”. It might help with the cover designs. Sigh.

Magazines, news, reports, etc. wouldn’t be complete without quandaries from Quebec. Mark Steyn has it covered… Intolerance? Yes. Taking it too far. Yes. Taking Quebec for who they are… Priceless!

The End – I think the only page my son, Isaac, reads… a remarkably moving story of a remarkably boring guy. Gotta love those.

Thank you, Maclean’s, however and whenever you arrived in Freetown… it was a blessing.

Your humble, boring, mag-material hungry servant,
Stephen

The government… is aquiver

2010-03-21T11:37:00.000Z

Corruption… I’ve written about it before and am revisiting the topic because it’s been all over the news here in Sierra Leone – again. This time, however, the “barking dog has teeth”, as they say, and arrests, convictions and charges are in the air – and courts.

The Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) is an independent body set up to investigate and charge folks suspected of corruption, which, as you know, is rampant here in Sierra Leone – from police officers on the street right up through the highest levels of government. (I wish they’d do something about police corruption – bribery – but that seems to be just a fact of life here) One of the posters created by the ACC pictures a set of handcuffs with the slogan “one size fits all, even the big fishes”. And, interestingly, the ACC logo is a fierce looking eagle (or “ack”, a vicious bird of prey) that stares down its beak at any and all who dare glance in its direction.

Speaking of “big fishes”, Afsata Kabba, the Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources has just been relieved of her duties and charged with 17 counts of corruption… (“soliciting and accepting advantage” – nice terms for severely corrupt behaviour) It’s reported that she accepted thousands of dollars in bribes from the “fish mafia” operating off the coast of Sierra Leone. This after being “sacked and moved” from her position as Minister of Energy and Power, in early 2009, under suspicious circumstances – some say corrupt practices in that ministry as well. She ran the Fisheries Ministry for just under a year and now faces jail time, fines, etc. if she’s convicted. The war in the media continues over this matter – some supportive (paid off) publishers say she’s a “marine-heroine” and some say she’s a dastardly, evil, “fishy-mastermind”.

In November 2009, the Minister of Health and Sanitation, Sheiku Tejan Koroma, was relieved of his duties under suspicion of “accepting influence”, “abuse of office” and mismanagement of funds in his ministry. The Anti-Corruption Commission found several instances of suspicious misbehaviour and charged the (no-longer honourable) Minister with corruption… leading to a recent conviction in court and a sentence of five years imprisonment or payment of fines totalling approximately one hundred and fifty million Leones (about $40,000USD).

Apparently the former Minister visited the courts late last week and paid the fine – probably out of the mismanaged or ill-gotten monies while he was Minister… thereby avoiding a jail term in the Pademba Road prison – arguably one of the worst jails in the world. No doubt, if convicted, the former Minister of Fisheries and Marine Resources will opt for the same route… again, paying the fines out of ill-gotten monies, I’m sure.

The National Revenue Authority (NRA) the government department responsible for tax collection, customs, etc. has also been shaken up. Last week, five “high up” men were suspended – some say “arrested” – for mismanagement and corrupt activities surrounding import containers and tax collection.

And, “the Commissioner, Anti-Corruption Commission (ACC) has informed the Office of the President that since October this year, the ACC has been investigating specific reports of allegations made against, Mr. Allieu Sesay, the Commissioner-General of the National Revenue Authority (NRA). The allegations include inter alia misappropriation of public funds, misappropriation of donor funds, abuse of office, abuse of position, corrupt acquisition of wealth, fraudulent or wilful or negligent failure to comply with procurement laws or procedures and conflict of interest.”

The ACC is cracking down… and the head of the ACC, Abdul Tejan-Cole, is bent on challenging, investigating and prosecuting those “big fishes” who continue to abuse their positions of authority and responsibility. Who’s next is anyone’s guess… but I’m hoping the “barking dog continues to bite” in the fight against corruption. Nothing is more frustrating… or disheartening to the people of Sierra Leone.

Perhaps there’s hope…
Stephen

Malaria

2010-02-14T18:09:00.000Z

Here’s what I know of malaria – it makes me feel like “shyte”. And, I’ve got it again – damn the mosquitoes. I’ve started my round of malaria meds and will be back on my feet again in a week or so… and will update all when symptoms calm down.

From the World Health Organization website – accessed on a day when I’m barely able to lift a finger to keyboard… but must take advantage of power and internet connectivity.

Malaria is caused by a parasite called Plasmodium, which is transmitted via the bites of infected mosquitoes. In the human body, the parasites multiply in the liver, and then infect red blood cells.

Symptoms of malaria include fever, headache, and vomiting, and usually appear between 10 and 15 days after the mosquito bite. If not treated, malaria can quickly become life-threatening by disrupting the blood supply to vital organs.

Key interventions to control malaria include: prompt and effective treatment with artemisinin-based combination therapies; use of insecticidal nets by people at risk; and indoor residual spraying with insecticide to control the vector mosquitoes.

From the World Malaria Report – 2009.

• Half of the world's population is at risk of malaria.
• An estimated 243 million malaria cases occurred in 2008.
• An estimated 863 000 malaria deaths occurred in 2008; 767 000 of those (89%) occurred in Africa.

From the Malaria Foundation International.

• Malaria is estimated to cause 300- 500 million clinical cases and over one million deaths each year.
• Every 30 seconds, a child somewhere dies of malaria. In any given year, nearly ten percent of the global population will suffer a case of malaria.
• Most survive after an illness of 10-20 days.
• Children are especially vulnerable to malaria. In Africa, where 80% of malaria cases are treated at home, the disease kills one child in twenty before the age of five.
• Pregnant women are also at high risk. They have an increase risk of disease and death, as well as adverse impacts for their developing babies- including low birth weight, growth retardation, still births and death.
• In African countries, up to 60% of hospital admissions may be for malaria; that's 6 out of 10 admissions!

I’ll survive because I’m a fortunate “pink” and can afford the medication, get to a pharmacy, take a day or two off work and get someone to bring me bread and water. For many of my neighbours, children, workers and non-workers in Sierra Leone, their options are far fewer. It’s scary out here…

Horizontal
S/

The Beatles come to Sierra Leone

2010-02-06T11:46:00.000Z

When did Ed Sullivan announce the Beatles arrival to North America? When did the British invasion of pop music and the Beatles start? All I know is that the broadcast – often reported as “the most important musical event in history” – was recorded in black and white – and four lads from Liverpool took the stage in black suits and ties.

Okay… if you remember, you’re probably a little older than I am now… February 9, 1964, to many, is as memorable as the day Kennedy was shot in Dallas. “Where were you when???” Sunday, February 9, 1964 was the day the Beatles made their first appearance on North American television. And, needless to say the day was memorable and monumental for many people.

Why am I writing about this… early February 2010??? Well, this February, in Freetown, Sierra Leone, I introduced the Beatles to a country that seems to have missed the British musical invasion – perhaps a backlash against the British colonial influence through the 1800s and 1900s. I’m no Ed Sullivan and it wasn’t on national television… but I can claim my place in Sierra Leone’s musical history.

I was invited to attend a graduation ceremony for a neighbour who completed her studies from the Camp Vocational Centre for Women in Food and Nutrition. A two year certificate program that carries significant weight around here. In fact, any certificate from any educational institute is important here… I won’t get into the state of education – yet – but needless to say it’s rather atrocious. This event was important – to understate the obvious.

At the party following the graduation, held at the Bentina Restaurant and Bar in Aberdeen across from the beach, the music was loud, the celebrants beamed, family and friends proudly presented gifts to the graduates… and people danced, ate and drank in merriment. Anticipating a rather painful musical experience, I prepared a CD – a “plate” – of music from Canada, which included Mae Moore, Brian Adams, the Tragically Hip, the Bare Naked Ladies, Leonard Cohen, etc. It also contained several songs from the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and Bob Dylan.

I should back up a bit… and explain what I mean by “painful musical experience”. Here in Sierra Leone, they love their music LOUD, often to the point of distortion. They love “digital” music created on synthesizers with heavy disco beats – repetitive drumbeats and electronic sound effects. It’s not quite disco and not quite rap. It’s not quite hip-hop and not quite pop. But, it’s incredibly popular. People love music here… and kids, young people and adults often sing, dance and gyrate unabashedly in the streets – to music videos blaring from market stalls and shops on the street.

I have to say, I’m not exactly a fan of the music here… (“cultural music aside, of course), hence my preparation of “good” music for the party. I presented the disk to the DJ – DJ Power Aziz – and asked if he’d have a listen and at some point play a selection. He dutifully listened to a few pieces and announced that while he liked some of the music, he couldn’t play anything because “no one else would like the music”.

Later that evening, after everyone had eaten and taken to the dance floor, I requested a song – “All You Need Is Love” – by the Beatles. I figured it was about as “Africa-friendly” as possible – understandable lyrics, a decent beat, memorable melody, etc. The DJ relented, after a small donation to the musical sound set, and the dance floor quickly emptied. I couldn’t believe it… so I grabbed a young girl, Yanda, the 10-year-old daughter of another neighbour, and we happily spun, twirled and “shook our money-makers” to the Beatles.

Interestingly, after Yanda and my dance (following significant ridicule for being the white guy who can’t dance) and the resumption of the (loud, distorted) heavy electronic drumbeats, I asked folks if they’d ever heard of the Beatles… NOT ONE PERSON had ever heard anything like that song or knew anything about the Beatles. And so I tried to explain – the biggest selling musical group ever – the most popular musicians ever – the biggest money-makers… all of which fell on deaf ears as did the song, “All You Need Is Love”.

My curiosity was peaked… and I asked two journalism classes at Fourah Bay College – students between 21 and 35 years – if they’d ever heard of the Beatles. One had – because they regularly listen to a BBC affiliate radio station here who sometimes play “oldies”. Thus another assignment was born – find and review a Beatles song for a local newspaper. It’ll be interesting to read their responses…

So, forty-six years after the Beatles hit the television airwaves in North America, they’ve now landed in Sierra Leone – to a warm, sunny and humid reception, hopefully. I may not be Ed Sullivan but perhaps I’ve introduced “the long and winding road”, along “Abbey Road”, “day tripping”, in a “yellow submarine”, “with a little help from my friends” and “all my loving”, hoping “we can work it out”.

Sorry, I couldn’t resist.
Stephen

Missed and Missing…

2010-01-19T19:37:00.000Z

Well, I’m back in Freetown, Sierra Leone – having returned to my “second home” just a week ago following a wonderful visit back to bustling Toronto and the chilly climes of Canada. I missed the warmth and sunshine of this place… not to mention the friends and colleagues I’ve managed to connect with over my previous seven months in “sweet Salone”.

I know I’ve been remiss with my postings to this blog and my letters to friends and family in Canada. Sorry… Or, “osh-ya” in Kreole, which means, “I’m sorry. I beg of you.”

The past few months here – from about the middle of October through to the end of my original contract on December the 15th - were very hectic… to understate the obvious. I’d “hit my stride” as they say and workshops for local journalists, teaching at the university, meetings, etc. got the better of my time and limited resources. It was good, however, and I honestly felt I was having an impact, making in-roads and noticing the positive influence I was having on the state of media and human rights here in Sierra Leone. Okay… the world didn’t change. Sierra Leone journalists didn’t miraculously learn to report and write and broadcast. And much of what I was up to wasn’t easily recognized… but I noticed. I’ll try to update everyone on those “noticeables” when I get another chance.

One thing that did change was the status of Sierra Leone on both the Human Poverty Index and the Human Development Index, according to the UN… Sierra Leone was ranked last/worst… for several years. And, while I was here, sometime between July and December 2009, Sierra Leone rose to second last on those listings. Afghanistan is now worse than Sierra Leone… for obvious reasons, and I’m taking sole credit for this miraculous surge in development. (kidding)

What I wanted to write about were the things I missed about Freetown while in Canada… and there were many. Of course the first, and now ever present, sun and warmth. I’m sitting outside on the verandah, in the dark, in shorts and a tee-shirt – wiggling my toes in sandals. It’s the middle of January… and I can’t even imagine wearing a parka, scarf, boots and mittens.

I missed the street life. Here, everyone lives, works, sleeps, eats and lives their lives outside… in markets, along streets, in courtyards, on the beach, etc. It’s an outdoor culture, which makes for interesting and lively walks to and from places. Yes, I walk everywhere here… or mostly everywhere. And, I missed that. While I was in the Toronto area, I had to drive everywhere – things were so far apart and I couldn’t help notice the lack of street life and the few people venturing from car to house or shopping mall to car.

I missed the food and have now had my re-fill of rice, cassava leaves, potato leaves, palm oil, fresh and dried fish, and of course, the sting of hot African peppers in everything. It’s a wonderfully simple diet I’ve become accustomed to over these months. And, eating once a day seems to suit me just fine…

I missed the many friendly faces who greet me on almost every corner. Freetown and Sierra Leone are open places where people greet each other on the street and ask, “how are you?” at every opportunity. I haven’t managed to accept or use the standard response, “tell gawd tenk-yee” but I always smile and respond with “plenty fine and you?” The security guards in the compound and along the hillside up from my apartment greet me warmly everyday. And, the military policeman who stands at the barracks gate always waves and bows – to which I reply with a semi-Buddhist clasp of hands or thumbs-up greeting depending on what I’m carrying that day.

I missed shaking hands with everyone I see and having conversations, holding hands, with male friends as I walk down the street. I still feel a little strange about it but I’m getting used to it. I remember walking with Andrew on the boardwalk in Toronto and thinking – if I were in Freetown, we’d be holding hands…

I missed random acts of friendliness and kindness. On Friday, I got caught without Leones not having exchanged US dollars for Leones with “my Rasta man/friend, Emmanuel” on the street corner. I was walking to a meeting, very early in the morning, and my friend who runs the neighbourhood internet café, Alpha, and I struck up a conversation. He asked where I was going… and I explained my predicament. He ended up loaning me 10,000 Leone so I could get a taxi to my meeting. I was very appreciative… especially because there’s a sign in the café that reads, “credit will be available… tomorrow”.

And, my regular retailer of peppers and groundnut at the Aberdeen market – a woman I call “Sisseh” (for sister), offered to buy me my fish from another market stall because I still haven’t learned to tell a good dried barracuda from a bad one. She takes good care of me… probably because she sees me struggling sometimes to purchase and cook African dishes like groundnut stew or drinks like ginger beer. I’d hate to know what she repeats to her family and friends about this “crazy or ignorant ‘white’ man” who buys the wrong fish or too much pepper for his suppers.

I missed the wonderfully happy, smiling three-year-old girl who hangs around with her mother at the corner store at the top of my road. Hannah loves to be picked up and tickled… and is always ripe for a giggle and a hug. The other day she was wearing her blue velvetine dress she got for Cmas… and apparently hasn’t taken off since.

I missed the little eight-year-old girls, Precious and Francis, in their green school dresses, who come by my office everyday after their classes. The church across the road hosts a government school by day and these two girls drop by and I teach them to spell a new word everyday. Their teacher, Mrs. LaHaye, is even taking note of their increased spelling prowess. On Friday they brought along a five-year-old sibling who wanted to learn how to spell. I can see I’ll soon have a gaggle of kids gathering in front of the office…

I missed the beach… I haven’t had a chance to get to the luscious beaches down the coast but I’ve briefly visited Aberdeen and Lumley beach near my apartment. There’s nothing like the sound and smell of rolling oceanic waves to soothe the icicles from of my blood. I can’t wait to venture to my two favourite beaches, Lakka and Beach Two – perhaps later in the month.

I’ve missed having to hand wash my clothes, bed sheet, pillow cases, towels, etc. (NOT) Okay… that was something I could live without, for sure, and throwing a load of laundry into my mother’s chrome washing machine was incredible. But, I’m surprised how I missed having to calculate when and how to wash my clothes.

I missed the sensation of cracking open a cold beer, taking that first slug and watching the condensation bead and roll down the side of the can on a blistering hot day. I missed sweating and having to drink at least two litres of water everyday. Weirdly, I think my bladder was in shock with the change in water intake and water retention/processing while in Canada. I’m back to sweating and not urinating… Sorry, “TMI” – too much information.

Speaking of thirst – I missed the Salone thirst for books, reading materials, knowledge and questions about where I come from and what I’m doing here. Over and over again I hear, “Sierra Leoneons love strangers” and it’s true… people here are very curious and inquisitive. And, they love to talk… “tok-tok” as they say… Canadians may be friendly and slightly curious but the reservations of most Canadians took me awhile to get used to again. We are a conservative lot, despite our wish for more liberal approaches to politics, positions and people.

Other things I missed about Sierra Leone while I was in Canada…

- Sleeping without a blanket
- Sleeping under a mosquito net
- Slathering bug repellent whenever I go out at night
- Open windows
- Crowded taxis and poda-podas
- Blue skies
- Market haggling and dickering or negotiating for a cheaper price on everything from taxi rides to rice
- Lawlessness and “official guidelines” like bribes, commissions and scams
- Heat rash
- Cold showers
- Intermittent power, darkness and no internet service
- Bugs in the kitchen
- Sand on the floor and dust everywhere
- Sweaty computer keyboards
- The sounds of croaking frogs from the sewage ditch that drains down the hill on the other side of my compound wall
- My special Salone friends; Mary, Sputnik, Elvis, Momoh, Lylla, Sulak, Arthur, and my landlords, Mala and Kishen, among many others.

And, now that I’m back in “sweet Salone” I miss certain things about Canada. But, those will have to wait for another blog-thing… and I promise I won’t wait too long.

Yours,
S/

Small and peaceful...

2009-08-31T09:34:00.001Z

It started innocently enough… Michael, a young gentleman who worked diligently for my landlord and kept the courtyard and environs incredibly neat, told me about his dream to go back to secondary school to finish his education. He’d dropped out of school when he was twelve to support his mother and siblings. He speaks little English and can barely read… let alone write, in any language. But, he’s bright, quick with a smile and always very friendly and accommodating.

Michael’s situation is a very common phenomenon here and according to a recent UNICEF and Ministry of Education, Youth and Sport report titled, “The Out-of-School Report” up to 40% of primary school-aged children do not attend school, despite the government’s commitment or lack thereof to the International Convention on the Rights of the Child. In Sierra Leone, “Article 28 of that Convention (Right to education): All children have the right to a primary education, which should be free,” is a complete misnomer. It’s one thing to have the right to free education but it’s another to see it in action or make it happen.

The Report forcefully illustrates the point that poverty is the major reason for children being out of school… among the many other reasons including early marriage, child-pregnancies, bullying and harassment from peers and teachers, disabilities, sexual abuse, peer pressure, cultural tradition, and so on. So, the streets in Freetown are often flooded with young children selling bags of water (straight from an untreated water supply), household goods including soaps and medications, charcoal, etc. And, their futures are reflected in the faces of the young men who hang about street corners trying to eek out a living selling fish heads, discarded tee-shirts or mismatched shoes.

But, a small revolution is at hand and I’m proud to be a supporter…

One day, as I sat in the courtyard reading, Michael approached and sat down beside me. We exchanged pleasantries and he eventually asked me what I was reading. I replied it was a book about the beautiful, bountiful science that surrounds us. (see the reference at the end of this post) He said he was interested in science, biology and chemistry… and asked if I could find him a book on science so he could study and prepare for some sort of secondary school exam.

Initially, I must admit, I was taken aback. One of the things I’m trying to avoid is “helping out” the hundreds of people who’ve asked me for money. It’s another fact of life here in Freetown – people see the colour of my skin and immediately assume I have buckets of money and that I’m freely distributing “western aid” on every corner. So, Michael’s request didn’t surprise me but it was the first indication from him that he’d like my help. And, it wasn’t money he wanted… but a book! To study! To further his education! I couldn’t say “no, next time…” or my new favourite “polite push-off”, “I’ll pray for you.” (when people ask what religion I am I say “I’m an atheist” and they seem happy to hear… little do they know)

I came face-to-face with my conviction to help in a sustainable way and to avoid contributing to the “aid mentality” that’s so prevalent in this country. However, a book… a lasting, sustainable and helpful instrument… that, I could justify.

So, the following day I wandered down Garrison St. near the Victoria Park market, amidst the dozens of street hawkers and managed to find a photocopied version of a biology textbook, written in 1980 – edition four – for Le40,000 or about $12.00. (the initial price quoted was Le150,000) I scooped it up and delivered it to Michael later that night. My gawd, you’d have thought I conjured a rain of coins… He was thrilled. And, for the next several weeks I watched his page-progress through the textbook.

A week or so later, Yousef, one of the young security guys, told me he was very interested in economics and business. I’d noticed Yousef reading over Michael’s shoulder on several occasions and felt his interest was genuine. So, when Yousef asked if I could find him a book on business, I quickly accepted the challenge. Books are a rarity here… and with a 75% illiteracy rate it’s easy to see that the market for books and reading is very small – despite the number of daily newspapers.

However, I managed to track down a very well-used, secondary school workbook on business and economics. And, Yousef was thrilled. He’s since read through that one and he’s now into a math book – probably a grade ten level – that he’s devouring. This second book was a real challenge… I was aided by a primary school teacher and neighbour, MarVel, who took me to a shack outside her school. And, because I was MarVel’s friend, the shop-owner sold me the book for Le20,000 or just about $7.00.

There’s another young man, Moses, an Okada driver who’s frequently shuffled me about on the back of his motorbike and who is very interested in football/soccer. “Moses the motorcycle man” went to school till he was about eight and has been working at a variety of “jobs” since then – almost 12 years. He regularly regales me with football stories as we zip among the traffic of Freetown. (Sometimes I have to tell him to stop waving his left hand about and hold onto the handlebars… but he’s very passionate about football.)

I was given a copy of a new book by a Sierra Leoneon footballer named Mohamed Kallon who plays in the European league and is a legend among young Sierra Leoneons. It was a promo-copy and terribly written… but it was local and just perfect for someone who had very few reading skills. (it’s written at about a grade four reading level) When I handed the book over to Moses – the first and only new book he’s ever owned – he beamed.

I guess the revolution is spreading… and yesterday another neighbourhood child asked me (Uncle Stephen because of my “silver and gold hair” and advanced age) if I could find her a book about science fiction – “space and other worlds”, in her words. She said she was in “form three” which is roughly grade eleven… That’ll be my mission, among others, this week. I think I recall seeing a photocopied version of an Asimov novel among the street hawkers near the market…

It may be a small, peaceful revolution but at least it’s a start… and who knows – maybe one day, one of these readers will evolve into the next Gordimer or Asimov or Einstein or Gates. And, like most revolutions, the initial supporters often don’t get to see the end results… but it’s the seeds of revolution that can spark eventual change.

Today I’m hopeful…
Stephen

Sierra Leone hits Los Angeles…

2009-08-29T15:39:00.000Z

We’re famous in Sierra Leone… and proof enough is this excerpt from an L.A. Times article. For the full story – and pictures – click on this site.

Check out the article at http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-resort25-2009aug25,0,4391065.story

Excerpted from the L.A. Times… August 25, 2009 written by Scott Kraft

“On a recent weekend, several dozen visitors parked their SUVs in the packed-sand lot and strolled through tropical stands of palm trees to the beach. Young village workers, some barefoot and others in sandals, took food and drink orders from bathers relaxing on the beach. In the restaurant's open-air kitchen, Bendu and his crew chopped tomatoes, onions and garlic for the fish marinade and placed skewers of barracuda and shrimp on the grill. A large pot of freshly cut potatoes bubbled in oil over a wood fire. The restaurant serves whatever the fishermen catch -- for less than $10 a plate, including fries or rice.”

“Among the day-trippers that Sunday was the U.N. secretary-general's special representative and his son, a Canadian journalist teaching in Sierra Leone, Dutch relief workers and half a dozen seminary students from Nigeria, Guinea, Indonesia and Ghana.”

I’m the “Canadian journalist teaching in Sierra Leone” and I spent the afternoon with Scott and the photographer, Liz, at the beach… my usual place of Sunday worship. (although, I have to admit, the heavy rains have dampened my worship ceremonies)

Later that week, I had dinner with Scott and Liz at the Country Lodge hotel, (I’ve written about that place before) where they were staying in grand luxury, and shared an evening of journalistic triumphs and trials here in Sierra Leone.

I should also mention that I had another dinner at “the Lodge” with a delegation from War Child International who were here working on some humanitarian project. Among the group was a Canadian photographer and a “rising or emerging” pop singer named Sy-ria (or something like that) who grew up here but is now living and working in Vancouver. Ah… a taste of “home conversation” about hockey, Stephen Harper, the Canadian media environment, etc.

The “foreigners” continue to flit through Freetown and for some reason I tend to meet up to share stories and nibble on news from the rest of the world. Last Saturday, I was part of a delegation that included a Danish woman from the labour movement… and the Sierra Leone Labour Congress. We were addressing the photographic union here and discussing training curriculum and pilot projects.

I’m also doing some ongoing training for the journalists at UN Radio through my friend, Sputnik. She’s the “chief” of that UN department and while traipsing through the UN building I met another Canadian, Reg, who’s in charge of UN staff security for Sierra Leone. Yes, it always helps to know people who know people who can keep us safe.

These relatively few interactions with “foreigners” often sustain and replenish my need for outside contact… and it’s fabulous to share stories and viewpoints on Sierra Leone, West Africa, and the rest of the world. It helps me feel more connected and less isolated.

Awaiting visitors,
Stephen

The power of words…

2009-08-28T18:38:00.000Z

We are all aware of the power of the pen – or in many cases the potency of the pixel. Words have the power to enlighten, no question, but they can also be used to confuse… used for good and for evil. I’m not talking about a language barrier – this time. I’m talking about jargon… it’s rampant and annoying and confusing.

And, all you have to do is randomly list these “jargon-y” words… and somehow donors give, NGOs salivate, politicians are elected and the “development community” grows. I sometimes feel like I should create a document listing all these jargon words with instructions to order them any way you see fit…

For example… “Please use these words, in any order, when considering our development organization for funding… capacity building, stakeholders, facilitating civil society, NGOs, INGOs, organizational, structural development, training, engagement methodology, implement, consortium, humanitarian initiatives, strategic objectives, engaging project affected peoples, opening dialogue…” Well, you get the picture. None of this makes any sense but look at what “makes sense” to those involved here.

From a vacancy advertisement in Premier News, issue 446.

“… to undertake a conflict sensitivity capacity assessment of a consortium of NGOs and to review/document Case Studies on Conflict Sensitive Approaches (CSA) in Sierra Leone. The consultancy will develop an Assessment Methodology; provide expert support to the Consortium members during CSA self-assessment, setting Change Objectives and developing partner agency Capacity Building Plans.”

Have your eyes glazed over yet? By the second sentence you should be fully lulled into a hypnotic trance… and then, almost subconsciously, I hit you with my funding request.

Here’s a quote from a funding application I received… Oh my, what am I supposed to think?

“… is intended to strengthen the practice of SGBV (something to do with gender-based violence – or wife-beating, more specifically) sensitivity throughout and beyond a broad consortium of humanitarian, peace-building and multi-mandate development NGOs.”

Perhaps it is a language barrier… pontificating beyond understanding as a way of achieving one’s end and sometimes filling one’s belly. Yikes.

From “ENCISS – Enhancing the Interaction and Interface between Civil Society and the State to improve poor peoples lives (ENCISS),

The purpose of the ENCISS Programme is the increased capacity of representative civil society to participate in, influence, contribute to and monitor the Poverty Reduction Strategy and Local Government policy, planning and implementation, and strengthen capacity of the Government of Sierra Leone to engage in constructive dialogue with civil society within these policy frameworks. The focus of ENCISS will be improving the interface between state and non-state actors.”

Please forgive my innocence and ignorance… but honestly, what are these people really doing? Say what you mean and communicate it clearly for the rest of us, please!

Searching for clarity – beyond the gobbledegook, blather, chatter, prattle, drivel, double-talk, gibberish and development-speak.

Stephen

Shooters take to the streets...

2009-07-30T16:19:00.002Z

No, no, not "that" kind of shooting...I mean shooting of photographs - or "snapping" as it's called here.

I've been doing workshops on photographic technique, composition, business and ethics for the Indigenous Photographers Union of Sierra Leone and the final "class" ended with a fieldtrip through town. Can you imagine... 60 photographers gathering at the Congo Cross junction to march and snap down to the Youyie Building - where most of the government ministries are located. It was a photographic extravaganza.

There we were... snapping, talking to people, getting people to pose, stopping traffic, doing portraits of police officers, snapping billboards and graffiti... shooting buildings... and wrapping up our workshop series.

It was an awesome sight... and it was the first of its kind in Sierra Leone. Wow... it almost felt like a "movement" or the blossoming of an industry. Very cool.

Most - probably 90% of the photographers still shoot with colour film (there's no such thing as B&W film here anymore) and most photographers are using film cameras that are at least ten years old. Manual focus, manual wind, no light meters, some with no controls or dials that work... and yet we made it all work. I'll be doing a "post-workshop evaluation" next week where we'll be looking at several samples from each of the photographers... so that should be interesting. Then, the Union wants to enlarge and frame the best photos for exhibition. Wow. What a good idea.

It was awesome and I'll try to upload some images from the fieldtrip.

Gotta love technology... or the lack of it.
Stephen

Two sides of the same coin…

2009-07-28T18:05:00.000Z

The statistics don’t lie… Sierra Leone ranks among the lowest of the low (sometimes sitting on the very bottom) of almost all United Nations, World Bank and development analysis. From infant and maternal mortality to unemployment… From poverty levels to illiteracy rates… From average life expectancy to gross domestic product and exports… Sierra Leone is a desperate place.

But, there’s a flip side to the Sierra Leone coin and I’ve had a brief glimpse at that burgeoning underside. Actually, it’s the top-side of the coin… and it remains elusive and mostly hidden behind high, razor-wired, concrete walls and darkened SUV windows. There is a small but elite group… mostly foreign, among our populace. They are here… preserved and rarefied.

Country Lodge, a rather understated moniker for the country’s swankiest hotel, overlooks the city and out over the ocean from the heights of Hill Station. If you’ve got enough money or the right connections, you’ll be invited up the bumpy, winding road to the reserved heights of western amenities. No bucket baths in this place… gleaming tile, tablecloths, western food and an outdoor pool and hot tub are available for about $150 a night. The price alone prevents most locals from visiting… so only the well-heeled traveller and occasional UN or international aid group can afford to wine and dine there.

I managed to wrangle an invitation to a reception at Country Lodge hosted by UNICEF for the visiting African director… and enjoyed “nibbles” and a double gin-and-tonic on their bill. It was my first visit to the place and I realized, zipping up the hill and through the monstrous iron gates on the back of an okada (little motorcycle taxi), was probably a touch inappropriate… given the lines of white SUVs and untarnished luxury motorcars. I did get a few looks but have realized that the colour of my skin allows me a certain flexibility among the glitterati.

And speaking of glitter… Sierra Leone is home to some of the world’s largest diamond, gold, bauxite and mineral mines. In fact, the Kono district in the south east of the country is infamous for its foreign-owned diamond mining. (the movie “Blood Diamond” is based on the plentiful diamonds that helped fund dictators, rebellions and heinous acts of suffering) Apparently, throughout the 70s and pre-conflict, diamonds could be found on the streets and paths following a heavy rain. The interesting thing is that Sierra Leone has this incredible wealth – gold and diamonds – only a scratch beneath the dirt surface and yet people and villages are dirt poor. The money is there but it’s quickly siphoned away by a very few wealthy mining companies and individuals.

The country’s natural resources are plentiful – lumber (although there are now environmental factors contributing to the industry’s downfall), fruit and vegetables, spices, minerals, fertile grounds, sunny skies and warm temperatures yet there’s almost no industry or manufacturing here. For example, mangoes and coconut grow everywhere and 95% of the crops are wasted or rot on the trees. I regularly buy mangoes on the street where they’re sold for pennies but nothing is refined or finished… You’d think I’d be able to get a fresh, delicious mango fruit drink or shake somewhere… but no… I end up buying stale-dated Ceres tetra paks instead.

Speaking of manufacturing and industrialization… that reminds me of another one of the more glaring examples of this two-sided coin. Electicity – or the lack of power to the people, as I’ve written before. The President keeps saying, “oh, it’s coming next month, next week, tomorrow,” but it’s been almost 25 years in the making including several regime and government changes along the way. It seems there are certain areas of Freetown that have been designated “essential” including the president’s compound, the State House, a bank or two and several of the more infamous hotels. Country Lodge, for example, is on the same hill as the president’s home and thus enjoys almost 24-hour electricity. I should add that many of the houses I passed on my way up the hill were without power. Infrastructure, including power lines, are rare commodities.

Some areas in the western part of Freetown have more power than others. I know one area that enjoys about eight hours a day of NPA (National Power Authority) electricity… and coincidentally that neighbourhood is up Wilkinson Road and home to many UN staffers and aid groups. The east, on the other hand, has very little electricity and is home to the poorest areas in the country. It seems you have to live in the right area… or on the “right” side of the tracks to enjoy even the slightest flickers of electricity.

There’s a bar at the western most end of Lumley Beach called the Atlantic, appropriately enough, and it’s run by an ex-Brit named J.W. Okay, I’ll admit, I’ve been there a couple of times and while it’s no where near as famous Paddy’s (as depicted in the movie “Blood Diamonds”) the Atlantic is still a hot spot especially among the ex-pat community, UN workers, NGOs, the Lebanese and those of us with lighter skins. The bar sits on the sand and overlooks the beach. And, you wouldn’t believe the sunsets… incredible. Again, the only locals you’ll find there are the staff and the sex-trade workers.

The other hot spot, besides Paddy’s, is a place called the “Office” that features another gorgeous view of the ocean. It’s a new place, lots of chrome and glass, but costs Le15,000 ($3.00) to get in. I’ve been told “it’s the place to see and be seen” which is probably why I haven’t bothered to cough up the entrance fee. (I had a tour of the place one afternoon when I got lost in that area) And, if you’re truly a Sierra Leoneon a-list type, you can visit the “whiskey bar” (Le150,000 entrance) that apparently offers a selection of over 100 imported whiskeys.

Interestingly, the majority of local businesses are owned by Indians, Chinese or Lebanese men. There’s the expected racism between each ethnic group and Sierra Leoneons… not to mention the inherent Sierra Leoneon tribal divide between the Fullers, the Mende, the Mandingo and the Temene. These divides create economic disparity as well. And, it’s not uncommon to see Indian families driving to and from shops in fancy-ish cars. And, it’s quite common to see Lebanese families peering from their balconies down onto the busy streets in the west of Freetown. I’ve heard tell that the Indians and Lebanese live in a world unto themselves… separate and distinct and somehow above it all.

As with any city in the world… there are those with money/power and those without. The disparity between these groups in Sierra Leone is huge. On the one hand you have the blind beggars (lead around by small children) in the streets… asking for money from the occasional Hummer or dark-window SUV. The thing is, there are very few Hummers around and a great number of amputees, disabled or elderly beggars.

I live somewhere in the middle… occasionally riding in a white SUV and sporadically asking to borrow Le5,000 from colleagues for a taxi back to my apartment. I can’t say I live on both sides of the coin but I occasionally catch glimpses of each side as it spins in the air.

Counting coins,
Stephen

Sharing the pie...

2009-07-18T10:37:00.000Z

One of the most disconcerting things about Freetown and Sierra Leone is the status of “the media” or, to be more specific, the unprofessional attitude of journalists, editors and media owners. Don’t get me wrong… there are some very ethical, responsible and diligent reporters around. But, they seem to be in the minority. As a result, the public perception of reporters and the newspapers and radio stations they work for is very low. People are either threatened by or disgusted by reporters… many of whom are young, only functionally literate, unpaid or severely underpaid, untrained, unskilled and usually hungry.

Let me back up a little bit. The post-conflict, fragile state of this country has fostered a ton of international aid, a proliferation of NGOs (legitimate and not), a tentative democratic government and an uncertain, sometimes frustrated attitude among its citizenry. In fact, I’ve inquired from several people about the current state of the country compared to conditions before the conflict throughout the 90s. To a one, they’ve all said, “things are the same if not worse.” Unemployment is a huge problem, poverty, hunger, strife, unhealthy living conditions are rampant, healthcare is almost non-existent, corruption at all levels is obvious and ever-present… marginalization is at its peak… and anger, frustration and fear are a scratch beneath the surface. This tenuous state contributes to all kinds of scams, corruption, deceits and downright plagues of mistrust, misapprehension and abuse.

Reporters and editors… indeed the entire media industry is not immune from these deceits, scams and abuse. And, I’m constantly amazed at how low reporters and editors will stoop to pocket a few Leones – for food, medicine and the basic necessities of life. Everyone here is out to make some extra money… however they can. How can I blame them? How can one judge when they “have to” in order to live… And, wouldn’t I try the same things if I were in their shoes or shacks?

I’ve compiled a list, ever-growing it seems, of unethical and unprofessional things reporters and editors do to make a living… unfortunately contributing to the fear and loathing of public perception. I’m amazed at the brilliance of their scams… For example, let’s start with reporters. It’s not uncommon or unheard of for a reporter to approach a businessperson, show their media ID card, and demand money NOT to write a negative story about the business or personal life of the business-owner. Yes, it’s outright blackmail… and it’ll cost you Le50,000 (about $30 CDN) to escape a tarnished reputation and potential loss of income. And, that’s a mild one.

I had an editor tell me about an instance where a reporter sniffed out an Indian business-owner who was allegedly having affairs with young boys working in his shop. Of course, there was no proof, no verification, no credibility to the story but four journalists approached the Indian man and accused him of “being a homosexual and paedophile”. The accused paid off the four reporters. Within a week, however, the story appeared in three other newspapers… The unsubstantiated story was “sold” by the four original reporters to other reporters, who “broke” the story, which was untrue from the beginning.

The opposite happens as well. A reporter will write something positive, an advertorial in essence, about a business or a politician, and they’ll take the published article back to the subject and demand a “token” for his services.

Of course, reporters or editors are paid by politicians, sometimes, to ignore stories… “Don’t report this corruption, breach of trust or whatever, and I’ll pay you Le100,000.” Or, more often than not, reporters, editors or publishers are paid a monthly stipend to support a politician or political party. Independent media is a long-forgotten ideal… shoved aside by the necessity to feed one’s family.

Or, here’s another not-so-ingenious scam… a reporter will read a story in a competitor’s paper, copy the article, put his name on the piece and submit it to his own editor the following day… Yes, plagiarism is rampant whether it’s stealing something off another reporter or off the radio or via the internet. In fact, it’s not uncommon to read stories straight from the BBC website or Yahoo news… and it’s so blatantly obvious – full sentences, proper grammar, story structure, etc. – things that don’t usually happen in local reports.

NGOs unfortunately contribute to many unethical practices in the media… In order to get a story or press release into the papers or on the radio, an NGO or aid organization will call a press conference… where they offer the reporters “transport” money, a free meal and a one-sided, biased press release praising their own work. Often the press release is published verbatim and never verified, properly sourced or credited. Among the industry, this is referred to as “coasting”.

Organizations will often hand-deliver press conference invitations to media offices (there’s no postal system here and very few folks have e-mail or regularly check their e-mail accounts). I recently discovered that a receptionist (sort of) was holding back these invitations and “selling” them to the reporters… If the receptionist or front line security person suspected an invitation would pay significant “transport” money, they’d offer them to the reporters for a fee. Again… everyone wants his or her piece of the pie – to the point where the pie cannot sustain anyone.

I recently hosted a community forum on “the future of media in Sierra Leone”. In attendance were community members, reporters, editors, friends of the media and some government types. When I began my opening and introductory lecture, I was confronted by a bobbing, throbbing video camera… that captured almost the entire workshop, including the three other presenters and footage of the audience. Ostensibly, the video was for a local television station and was to air as “news” later that night. (Workshops are considered “news” here… despite the fact that the content of most workshops, mine included, is not “news”) And, sure enough, a segment of the workshop did appear on the TV news. (There are only two TV channels in Freetown, one is government owned and operated and the other is a private organization owned by a Sierra Leonean in the U.S.)

But, what was interesting… and ingenious… was what else the reporter did with all his footage from the workshop. He approached my organization and sold the country director a CD copy of the workshop. Any NGO, including JHR, likes to have records of our activities so the market is ripe for video or print “proof” of activity. Then, he sold copies to each of the presenters… smart, talented people from radio, the university and from a branch of the government. And, got a free lunch at the workshop, he got paid from his TV station and he probably made close to Le400,000 from “my” one-day workshop. I should’ve asked for my “cut”…

Here’s another scam from the TV world… When a reporter is asked to attend a function, they’ll often say, “I have to buy batteries and tape first,” which is a not-so-obvious way of saying, “pay me first and I’ll show up to record and report your event, function or activity.”

Interestingly, when an editor suspects a reporter of getting paid to write or produce a story, they usually want their “cut”. For example, a reporter will write up the proceedings of a press conference… and receive Le50,000 from the NGO or organization. Some editors will demand their Le10,000 – Le20,000 cut of the proceeds in order to publish the story. Or, if an editor smells a blackmailed piece… he’ll demand his piece of the pie to publish the article. It’s a vicious cycle… or downward spiral.

Because most reporters, radio and newspaper, don’t type or don’t have access to a computer, an organization will “employ” a typist to translate a story from handwriting to print-ready copy. This typist, who doesn’t earn much, will charge the reporters to type out their stories. The reporters are handcuffed by their inability to type or access a computer. I should add that in most cases these typewritten versions of articles are full of spelling mistakes, typos, little or no punctuation, etc. And, no one does much proofreading…

Of course, the age-old battle between advertising sales and editorial purity continues… similar to publishing constraints in western media, I might add. If there’s no advertising, a newspaper won’t publish. If an advertiser wants a feature article, they get it – if they pay. If an advertiser wants a full-page ad on page three (an especially prized media placement) they get it – if they pay. If an NGO wants to issue a press release or public service announcement (PSA) on the radio – they pay. Media owners, editors and reporters will bend over backwards to get ads… selling the soul of reputable media, just like we do in the west. The bottom line, money and profits, are still the driving force of media industries around the world. Desperation leads to all kinds of unethical contributions to the media, especially in Sierra Leone.

In most newspapers, reporters are considered “freelancers” meaning they get paid for the story if or when it runs in the paper. I’ve heard tell of editors receiving a reporter’s copy and re-writing the piece, putting their own byline at the top of the page… They then refuse to pay the reporter. Instead, the editor receives the freelance payment and the reporter won’t eat that night.

I’m not exactly preaching from an elevated podium when I talk about unethical reporting or pure journalism. I’ve accepted gifts or graft from advertisers (nothing big like a car or house…) But, I once received a “magic bullet” blender from an advertiser… and I’ve been on press junkets hosted by public relations firms. In fact, I still use a jacket I got from Canon cameras while shooting at the Olympics several years ago. And, I’m usually happy to drink the coffee and eat a donut at Canadian press conferences. So, I’m not pure… and don’t proclaim to be entirely above accepting some media perks along the way. And, there’s no telling what I’d do if it came down to feeding my family or providing medication to loved ones. But, what I’ve seen in Sierra Leone would make most western editors, publishers and media owners cringe in disbelief.

But, let’s look at the reality of the media industry here… the pie is small… many people need to eat from that pie… and it’s perhaps wise to divide it up so more people can eat.

Searching for solutions,
Stephen

The rainy season…

2009-07-04T22:56:00.000Z

Saturday morning… and I can’t help comparing and contrasting recent activities, weather, locations and company with how and where I used to spend my Saturdays. As you can imagine, it’s very different here in Freetown. There are times when I miss my Canadian homeland… Saturdays are one of those times. What I wouldn’t give for a Saturday morning Globe and Mail newspaper or the Toronto Star’s crossword puzzle and a freshly brewed cup of coffee. And, a quiet walk through the streets or along a park path… those are some of the things I miss, especially today.

I was out very late last night – Friday – following an evening, candlelit dinner (infrequent power here, remember) with a young journalist and his family and a party closer to the beach at the other end of Freetown. The dinner, a delicious mix of ground cassava leaves, palm oil, spicy peppers, chicken (a very expensive commodity) and fish, was quite wonderful. Of course, all that was served over the ever-present heap of rice. Most Sierra Leoneons will tell you they haven’t eaten till they’ve had their plate of rice for the day. After dinner, I climbed down the “mountain” to grab a taxi to attend a party at another friend’s house. The party, a casual collection of UN Radio folks, was very interesting and festivities didn’t wrap up till well into the morning hours. Dinners and parties aren’t the norm here but it’s been a long, gruelling week and tippling with journalists, locals and some of the intelligentsia of Freetown was very nice.

It was great to get calls from Isaac and my parents this week… after learning the way around the “ban” on calls to Sierra Leone is to use an international calling card. After two months here, these connections (and e-mails from friends) have become salves to some of the bumps and scrapes inherent with living in Africa. And, noting Canada Day here in Freetown was a slightly lonely entry in my daily diary. The honourary Canadian consul, Frances Fortune, is out of the country and there are scant few other Canadians around… so the day was spent scrambling from one meeting to another, organizing workshops, tracking down NGOs, waiting for government ministers, etc. The American Embassy and the numerous folks involved in their work here held countless events for their July 4th celebrations. I’ve been representing JHR, and Canada I guess, by attending music nights, cocktail parties, silly soirées and other arrogant “red-white-and-blue” bashes.

Other events of the week included the incessant memorials to Michael Jackson contrasted against the passing of two local journalists – one in a car accident up country and the other from typhoid – a stark reminder of the fragility of existence. Just another week, as they say…

It’s “raining buckets” here this morning after a night of storms, howling wind, thunder and lightening. The water cascaded in its impression of Niagara Falls off the roof of the house crashing onto the patio outside my window. And the roar of the wind through the coconut trees was a wall of loud static drowning the groan of the generator from next door. In the first light of morning, awoken again by the crowing rooster, I sit on the verandah watching the rain stream from the thick grey skies.

The weather has finally changed… and the rainy season is upon us. I asked my colleague, Jordan, why the news shows here don’t have weather reports. His response was very funny… “Why, when all they’d say is ‘it’s hot today and it might rain’”. True enough. That, and the only weather station in Sierra Leone was destroyed during the war and hasn’t been replaced. The crumbling shell of a satellite weather tower remains on the horizon but it records nothing and predicts nothing. But I suppose, just by looking up at it, one can predict… it’s either raining or cloudless and hot. Sky gazing… probably just as effective as any weather station…

Interestingly, there are clouds in the sky these days and they roll across the shoreline and up over the hills behind Freetown. Sometimes they’re ominous and at other times they seem to careen gently through the sky. I can’t tell if it’s about to rain or clear. Strange skies… and I’ve been told to always carry an umbrella because “we Sierra Leoneons never know when it’ll rain. It could come at any time.” And, I’ve been caught several times… dashing for the cover of a tin shack or concrete overhang. It’s not a cold rain and funnily enough it only adds to the humidity and heat. Within minutes of the rain cessation, it’s humid as heck… and the raindrops running down my back are quickly exchanged with beads of sweat.

Tomorrow is “beach day” as Sundays have become affectionately known. It’s my reprieve and solace from some of the hassles, noise, frustration and crowds of Freetown. Beach Two is our chosen destination and I’m looking forward to swimming, napping, reading, walking and quiet time. And, weather won’t play a factor… rain or shine – any day at the beach is a day well spent.

Pictures will follow, I promise.
Stephen

Shutting down the city…

2009-06-24T11:11:00.002Z

It was an eerie drive into town last Monday… I’d gotten up especially early to head downtown to replace my phone – the most important communication device in Sierra Leone, before going to the jhr office. I managed to catch my landlords, Mala and Krishen, in their car and asked for a lift into the central part of Freetown, where they own and operate two electronic shops – Mala replaced my stolen phone at a decent cost… and I managed to salvage my phone number through a variety of folks at the mobile service provider, Zain. I’m re-united with beloved and despised phone service, in other words.

The drive from Aberdeen (my neighbourhood) through Murray Town, around Congo Cross and along Siaka Stevens Street was abnormally quiet. It was eerie… and there were more people on the street than normal. I didn’t think much of it but as we drove into the central part of downtown, Krishen noticed that many of the shops were still closed. Crowds of people were everywhere but auto-traffic, crazy motorcycles and jammed poda-podas were non-existent. The streets had been taken over by throngs of people.

Krishen, a very intelligent and sensitive man, noted the “difference” in front of his shop… and warned me, “Stephen, the shops are closed and there are too many people on the street… it could mean trouble. Stay close to the car, just in case.” Krishen and Mala were here through the conflicts in the 90s and have seen trouble in Freetown before… I took his advice very seriously.

However, I was curious… and things seemed safe. (no echoes of explosions or gunfire seemed to indicate things were relatively safe) I explored a little farther afield to discover that the Sierra Leone Drivers Union was holding a “special meeting” at the National Stadium in central Freetown. In effect, the taxi drivers, the poda-poda “boys” and every other commercial transport vehicle were “on strike” – for the morning at least. They’d gathered at the Stadium – thousands and thousands – to protest against police harassment/extortion, huge fines, unnecessary arrests and poor working conditions.

People were late for work. Students, in the midst of exams, were late getting to school. Shopkeepers didn’t open their shops in the morning. Street vendors were stuck far afield and didn’t make it to their street corners. And, it felt like the city had shut down…

Several government folks addressed the throngs of drivers and recognized the newly appointed/elected executive of the Drivers Union. The event had its problems but by 2:00 p.m. many of the commercial drivers were back on the street. Throughout the day, I could hear loud roars from very crowded poda-podas. People rode the roofs (street surfing) of the mini-vans. Taxis carrying up to ten people roared around town. And, I never knew if they were celebrating or protesting.

By Tuesday morning, the city had returned to its normal hustle and bustle complete with commercial taxis, poda-podas and motorcycles ushering people to and from work, school, shops, homes, etc.

What struck me on Monday was how precariously close this city and this country are to uprisings, violence, outbursts of anger or frustration, and so on. People, Krishen and Mala included, are wary of what might happen… what “differences” in their routines could mean… what to do IF something were to happen. They’ve seen the signs before… Being in a “post-conflict” culture means people have to be constantly vigilant, aware and ready to act – in whatever manner will keep them safe.

The city was held hostage on Monday morning… a reluctant victim of no public transport system, a reliance on commercial taxis, a sprawling geographic footprint, corruption, poverty and frustration. Thankfully the hostage-takers/commercial drivers released the city, without violence, later that day.

Learning to walk before running…
Stephen

The language barrier...

2009-06-23T07:20:00.001Z

It’s “sort of” English… and I’ve heard it described as “broken English”, “bastardized English” and “an English dialect”. Krio is the predominant language here in Freetown… but is it a language on it’s own or is it a form of what we know as “proper” English? I have to admit, I’m struggling with this aspect of life here…

At times I feel like I’m speaking a different language… and at times I feel like I’m speaking a “broken” or “improper” version of what I learned in public school. My colleague, Sulakshana, said she feels “dumber” when she attempts to speak Krio and I know exactly what she means. And, I don’t know if I should be correcting the written version of Krio or if that’s what people understand as “English”. I wonder about “the Queen’s English” and I wonder about the many different forms of English I keep hearing.

I had dinner with two Americans the other night and Doug, a legal intern from the southern States, brought up the issue of “American English” vs the Queen’s English… and what we speak in Canada – “proper” English… or so we like to think. At another dinner engagement, I overheard some folks from the U.K. who obviously had a good grasp of the English language, accent and all.

I can’t tell you how many newspaper articles I’ve started to read and then given up on… because 1) the writing is so “bad” or 2) the structure is impossible to follow or 3) I just don’t understand the language. Is it written in English? Or, is it “bad” English? Or is it the English most Sierra Leoneons understand as “proper” English?

Here’s an example of something that ran in the paper just the other day. I think I know what the writer is trying to say… but it’s so awkward I couldn’t read past this paragraph. Oh, to clarify… Zain is a mobile phone/internet provider here in Sierra Leone.

“The sales profile of GSM operator Zain has nose-dived from the twelve billion Leones monthly margin to a paltry one billion Leones. Why this is happening for three months running, cannot be explained in terms of isolated global financial shock reflecting on the local economy.”

And here’s another example… taken straight from an e-mail sent by a fourth year mass communications student at a local college. I can’t decide if the barriers are language-based or simply a lack of literacy skills.

“am very much happy with your trainnig worskhop at fatima confrence hall , really we are much more inpress with the trainnig , because of this reason, i have total love for you , and admired at you so much keep it up Stephen i have never been in the professon but through your inpressive traing that you have given to us , i have love, concern and interest over the field , i discused with mitthew that i want to join you in your office an work, i need your direction and help hoping you to reply thanks from friend”

Here’s a snippet from a conversation I had in a taxi the other day… Driver: “how de day?” Response: “Day fine, how da day?” And, when I was getting out of the car, on the wrong side, apparently. Driver: “Take time, take time.” Which means be careful… and then, after I was safely on the side of the road he said, “go see come” which means “see you later”. And, spray-painted on walls I’ll sometimes read, “Nor da piss ya” which means, and I’m sure you got it, “don’t urinate here”.

And, while on the back of an okada I was instructed to say, “small small” which means to slow down and be careful… I guess I could also have also said, “take time, take time”. As you can imagine, Noam Chomsky and other esteemed linguists would have a field day in a place like this.

Of course, there’s also the local tribal languages… Mendes in the southern provinces and Temne (pronounced Temini) in the north. Freetown offers a cultural and linguistic melting pot… which makes for some interesting eavesdropping.

But, in any and all languages, conversation is usually animated, sometimes loud bordering on shouting and complete with arm waving and open hand gestures. Emphatic is how I’d describe all the languages spoken in Sierra Leone. And, emphasis is one thing I always understand… with a smile, a handshake and nod.

Smiling and nodding…
Stephen

Learning about trust - naive or blind

2009-06-22T07:04:00.003Z

I've had my first taste of how my naive trust can get me into trouble. Or, perhaps it was my blind stupidity. Sigh.

My flatmate, Jordan, and I escaped as per usual to the beach on Sunday. Again, we visited a previously unexplored beach... Mamma Beach, and to our delight, it was empty, pristine, sunny and absolutely lovely. Jordan, our esteemed driver Patrick and I set up "camp" at one end of the beach and were sure there was no one around... so sure, in fact, I left my beach bucket, radio, towel and "man-bag" under the shade of a palm tree as I gleefully splashed around in the ocean.

Soaked and rejuvenated, I returned to our encampment to discover my bag was missing. Oh dear... I had my glasses, notebook, camera, money, phone, etc. stored neatly inside and was immediately struck by the shock of being a victim of my own stupidity. Not to mention the potential hassles involved in replacing those things.

After a search of the hill and brush behind the beach, I found my bag - minus the money, camera and phone. "eh bo" as they say here... Yes, what a disappointment to discover I'd been robbed. But, they'd left the bag, my glasses (thank goodness), my small notebook (a version of a personal diary) and my trusted pens.

I reported the "crime" to the local security post, about a twenty minute walk into the nearby village, to a half-dressed "police officer" who immediately took out his handcuffs and notebook to document the incident. He dutifully wrote out the details of the crime and then said, "you should have left your belongings here at my post." Yeah but... I wanted my camera with me and I was expecting a call... so... No excuses, however. It was my own fault, in other words. Yes, he was correct.

Upon reflection I realize I'd let my guard slip. I'd become a tad over-confident and let my Canadian naivety trump my adopted Sierra Leoneon cautiousness. And really, when I think of it, despite the difficulty of replacing the phone and camera, and the loss of money, it was a rather mild reminder to be careful - at all times. What if it had been my computer? What if it had been my "shooting camera"? What if it had been a paycheque or rent money? I'd be devastated...

As it is, however, I've been reminded to be vigilant, cautious and careful of where and what I leave around. You never know... a difficult lesson has been learned - the hard way.

This will not dissuade me, however, from my almost weekly visits to the beach. It will not shake my resolve to explore and learn as much as I can about Sierra Leone. It will not derail my attempts to get to know people. But, I'll be careful... or more careful from now on.

Learning valuable lessons...
Stephen

Meet me in Makeni… (How I love alliteration.)

2009-06-15T21:29:00.000Z

Okay, the hotel doesn’t have running water, showers or flush toilets… and the beds are uncomfortably lumpy… There’s limited electricity from 7:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m. (nothing during the day) The mosquito nets have holes in them… and the overhead fan makes enough noise to wake the dead (grinds, clangs, clunks and whirls…) The complimentary morning coffee is a pot of Nescafe and the “continental breakfast” is a small, under-cooked loaf of white bread with a dollop of margarine. Makeni is hot… dusty and noisy. And it certainly isn’t Freetown.

But, it does have some elusive charms including a “main drag” that looks like it’s a set from an old spaghetti western. I kept thinking I’d meet a cowboy or two as I strolled amidst the okadas (motorcycle taxis) and vending stalls. Many of the buildings are two storey colonial structures… balconies and railings line the streets and I swear I could hear a tinkering piano from deep in the bowels of a “saloon”. By the way, they spell “salon” (as in hair-dressing and “barbing”) as “saloon”… which takes me back to the days of marking term papers at Sheridan College.

The drive from Freetown through the countryside to Makeni was incredible. Scenes that reminded me of those made-for-TV docu-dramas about African wildlife and “primitive” villages were everywhere. Around every curve or over every hill, there appeared a small collection of mud huts with thatched roofs, subsistence gardens, clean clothes hung on tree branches to dry and young children in various states of dress.

I’ve just returned from hosting a two-day workshop on journalism and human rights at the Fatima Institute in Makeni. Makeni is about three and a half hours drive outside of Freetown… “into the provinces,” as they say. It’s remote, in other words. And the Fatima Institute is a lovely little college that started as a Catholic mission site. Most of you know how I feel about missionaries and Catholics. Yikes! The Institute is one of two colleges in the area and it hosts a mass communications program, under which I was invited to give my workshop.

The workshop, “reporting from the frontlines: getting the most from your subjects” was attended by approximately 60-70 reporters, students and college faculty. I arrived in Makeni on Friday at noon and by 2:00 p.m. was enthralling a hall full of eager, bright learners. Of course, the promise of dinner on Friday evening and a certificate presentation on Saturday evening helped fill the hall.

The workshop covered topics such as, the fundamentals of journalism, what is news, interview skills and then story outlines and structures. I’ve heard and read on the evaluation forms that they really enjoyed the participatory aspect of the workshop… and the “fun” of having a Canadian lecturer talk to the group. Interestingly, the cultural and language barriers weren’t as prevalent as I’d thought they’d be.
They, of course, didn’t “get” my references to hockey, the prime minister or the CBC news… but they enjoyed hearing stories about Canadian journalists.

There’s a strange phenomenon here (one of several) around “certificates”. It seems with every workshop a certificate is awarded to the participants. It denotes nothing but attendance but is highly valued. I think it’s probably due to the lack of formal education in the country. So, every workshop, every training session and almost every meeting awards a certificate… which is often laminated and carried around in a dirty, beat-up file folder. People, especially the journalists, covet these “awards” and in every meeting I’ve had with reporters, they swing them about proudly.

So, at the end of my two-day workshop, we held a formal certificate presentation ceremony… much like the ones I skipped when I graduated from anywhere. Photos were taken with certificates, hands were shaken, smiles were recorded on little video cameras… and there I was… matriculating in Makeni. (oh how I love alliteration)

Till next time,
Stephen

Power? to the people...

2009-06-10T17:04:00.002Z

Tuesday June 9, 2009 at 5:25 p.m. the power went out – again. We were fortunate to have power for most of the morning… before leaving the apartment for my meetings, etc. in the heart of the city. But, now that I’m home – my home away from home – no power, no lights, no fridge, no fans and unable to charge computers or phones. It’s incredible how much I – and the collective “we” – have come to depend on reliable sources of electricity. And here in Sierra Leone it’s never reliable and a constant topic of conversation.

There’s no rhyme nor reason as to when the power will be on or when it’s off. One day the power will be on during the day – when most people don’t need it. The next day we’ll have no power… and the next it’ll be on for a couple of hours late at night. It’s totally random. Or is it?

One of the other most talked about topics around here is corruption… from the police on the street to the highest levels of government. So, here’s my theory. There must be some guy who sits in a huge room full of switches that control where and when the power is distributed. And, depending on who makes their “payments” to my fictitious switch operator, that’s where the power will be channelled. I can see it now… a room full of wall switches, on and off, and this lone, powerful, electrifying guy sitting in his broken down swivel chair rolling himself from side to side flicking this switch and then that one. It’s an amusing thought.

We once had power in our apartment for an entire evening and into the night… I figure the guy in the switch room had flicked our neighbourhood’s toggle and then fallen asleep. It was a rare and wonderful treat to tuck in under my mosquito net and feel the fan swivelling it’s delicious swirl of cool air across the room. I awoke to a fully-charged phone and computer. And, I could shower in the dim light of my overhead bulb in the bathroom. I was getting used to cold showers in the dark… but morning power and light was a treat, a welcome relief thanks to my sleeping switch operator.

The National Power Authority (NPA) runs the electrical supply to the entire country and is based on Siaka Stevens Street in downtown Freetown. It relies on the Bumbuna Dam, a hydro-electric facility in the northern part of Sierra Leone. And, while driving back from Mile 91 last week, I could see the long lines of wires, most of which were badly damaged during the war. Interestingly, the dam is only fully operational during the rainy season… yet, to placate Sierra Leoneons, the All People’s Congress (APC) government continues to tell us that 24-hour power is almost here… any day now… possibly by the end of the month… or maybe even by Cmas. The “power date” continues to come and go… and no one really makes a fuss about missed deadlines, etc. Hmmm, it sounds suspicious to me.

It’s a wonder, really, why no one is looking into smaller solar powered alternatives given the consistent sunlight we experience. The power/electricity dilemma continues to be a source of international aid, however, and I wonder if governments, because they’re so heavily reliant on aid, are choosing to continue their pursuit of hydro power at the risk of losing aid dollars. But really… so much future investment depends on 24-hour power. Imagine having a factory that sits idle when there’s no power. Or, what about the offices downtown that operate on six to seven hours of power… at inconsistent times. Most office buildings run huge generators to even out the power supply at a tremendous cost to the environment, to pocket-books and to noise levels in the city. But to most, it’s a fact of life… and one that, while people talk about it, there doesn’t seem to be much anyone can do about it.

So, I have a stock of candles… and try to charge my computer and phone when I can. When the power’s on, I’m thrilled… and when it goes off, I complain. But, it’s just something I’m learning to live with – or without.

By candlelight,
Stephen

Heading "up-country"

2009-06-01T21:20:00.002Z

Other than heading to the local beaches, I've been sequestered in Freetown since my arrival. But tomorrow, I'm heading "up-country" to a place called, Mile 91, which, coincidentally is about 100 miles from Freetown. I'll be checking out the scenery, meeting some folks from several NGOs and hanging out with some African farmers. Maybe we can share shepherding secrets...

I'll be spending the night in the village and then traveling to another village, Yoni, to visit with an NGO that's operating some sort of computer/internet training program... Imagine, a computer lab in the middle of this tiny village. Should be interesting.

I'm looking forward to meeting lots of folks, (I'm brushing up on my Temne and Fuller language books) taking lots of photos and seeing the country.

Back soon,
Stephen

It's part of living the African life...

2009-06-01T20:11:00.002Z

There are some things one must get used to in Africa… they are part of life. And, I’m learning and adjusting. But, there are some things I’ll just never understand.

I can live with these…

I continue to pay the “white man’s tax”, as I affectionately call the extra-charges I pay on produce from the street market or on taxis to get anywhere. It should cost, according to my bargain-wise flatmate Sulakshana, Le700 to go from our street to my office. Me, I regularly end up paying Le2000 – Le3000. And, I’m a prime, glowing target for extra charges anytime I’m out in the evening. They see me a mile away, even in the dark, and I’m sure I can hear the “ching-ching” of a cash register as they approach. Not that there’s such a thing as a cash register around here.

Shaking hands is always a polite custom anywhere in the world but here it’s taken on a whole new meaning. The customary greeting, in Sierra Leone, is to shake hands with one flick of the wrist, then a hand-move up the thumb and back again. That movement is followed by raising your hand to your heart, especially if you’re keen on meeting that person. The hand to the heart is also a significant sign of respect. And, holding hands while talking to someone is completely normal… guys with guys, girls with girls… and guys with girls. I’ve had entire conversations with men while holding their hands… And, I’m regularly shown across the street or to a destination I’ve been hunting by a young man who takes my hand and leads me to my goal. It takes a bit of getting used to.

Speaking of shaking hands… the children in my neighbourhood have taken to gathering along the side of the path and shaking my hand whenever I arrive home. Today, I lost count at twenty kids… ranging in age from about three to twelve. We all share a giggle at the process.

The processes and paperwork involved in getting almost anything done around here is extraordinary. I was invited to join the IMC – Independent Media Commission, and I had to fill out several long forms, get my picture taken for an ID card, obtain a letter of referral from a media professional, have my photo verified… then pay my dues of about $5, and enter an approval process through two of the present commissioners. Strange… And, that’s nothing compared to trying to open a local bank account. Finger-printing, computer pictures, endless forms, guarantors, notes and numbers. All that… and the only thing I need to make a withdrawal from my account is a hand-written card with some sloppy numbers written on it. No ID necessary as long as you have that card and number.

The constant noise around town is sometimes deafening. Contributing to the bustle and bristle of noise pollution are taxis, okadas (commercial motorcycles) and poda podas, (crammed mini-vans) and the occasional private vehicle. There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme nor reason to the honking… but it’s constant. Now, I like using a car horn as a way of communicating with other drivers and have even been known to randomly beep my way through an intersection… but Freetown honking and traffic is ridiculous. The only thing I can figure is a taxi will honk if they have room and are going in your direction. Oh, and they honk when they pull to the side. And they honk when someone walks in front of the car. And they honk to signal they’ll pick you up as you yell your destination in an open window. The honking is constant and random.

Then, of course, there’s the hum, buzz and growl of generators that abound in the commercial districts of the city. It’s like a car engine being revved, spewing fumes and noise... I’ll never get used to the choking smell of diesel fuel or car exhaust from un-tuned engines and barely effective mufflers wafting through the busy streets.

Amidst the noise, street vendors and children seem to yell from every corner… “water”, “mango”, etc. Kids, some as young as six or seven, sell bags of water, mangos, cartons of sweets, shoes, socks, towels and so on, to drivers along the street from buckets on the tops of their heads. They sell untreated water from a local tap so only the local taxi drivers are able to stomach the contents… and the other goods are either expired or second-hand, found stuff. I keep wondering… in my North American naiveté, if these kids shouldn’t be playing soccer or hanging out at home instead of working the streets as they do.

I’m learning to love the process or ordeal of going to bed… It usually involves candlelight, because the electricity is out. It follows a cold shower, usually the third of the day. And, I have to crawl under my mosquito net, tuck the tangles of net around my mattress along the sides and bottom of my bed before crashing on the sponge-like pillow. But, once under the net, I switch on my headlamp/flashlight and open my book, snug as a bug in a rug (sorry, bad choice of words). Once inside, the netting looks quite exotic by headlamp light… and I can’t help feel like I’m in the wilds sleeping under a tent listening to the wicked winds in the coconut trees.

I think I’ve mentioned the rooster in the courtyard… it regularly greets the sun at 5:30 a.m., everyday! And, I’m getting used to rising with the sun, reading in bed and then getting up to have my first coffee of the day. (more on coffee later)

I could certainly get used to swimming in the Atlantic Ocean off the shores of a pristine beach… Ah, there’s nothing like it. I’ve made it my mission to explore and swim along every known beach in Sierra Leone. Some of the loveliest beaches in the world lay within about an hour drive of Freetown and around the peninsula. And, because they’re usually deserted I try to shed my trunks and splash around au natural at least once per visit. I could definitely get used to that… although, I’m sure anyone watching from afar has to wonder at the sight and flash of white butt and tan lines leaping into the waves.

Other things I’m getting used to:

- women and children carrying huge buckets, baskets and bags of coal on their heads
- being asked “how are you” or “how’da body” and answering “body fine”…
- breaking a sweat on the way up the hill from the apartment to the street… and seeing men and women carrying towels with them throughout the day to wipe their brows.
- four or five police officers in various degrees of uniform trying to direct traffic along round-abouts or junctions.
- hand-washing clothes every third day and sometimes having to change clothes twice or three times a day.
- cultural or sporting events that end suddenly because the lights went out. Everyone seems to take all of this in stride, as if it’s totally normal to not finish a song or end a game.
- drinking coconut water right from the nut.
- loud, distorted music and emcee announcements I can’t understand.
- constantly locking everything up when I leave and the extraordinary measures one must always take to keep things safe.
- marching bands in the middle of the day… sometimes there are two or three a day. They are often part of a church service, ribbon-cutting or funeral. It’s a Felini-esk sight, for sure.

And, the one thing that’s driving me crazy… and I’ll never get used to:
Freeze dried coffee in the morning… sigh!

Craving Tim Horton's coffee,
Stephen

Wondering about weather...

2009-05-28T21:32:00.000Z

Canadians have an extraordinary way of living with weather - all kinds of weather - from snow in May to rain in December. And, we talk about it, incessantly, it seems. We say things like, “oh, it looks like it’s going to be a nice day.” Or, “I hope it’ll be a nice day today.” We inquire about the weather when we talk to neighbours… We keep an eye on the sky, in other words. We regularly check the weather network for news of rain or snow or even the occasion sunny day. And, weather often makes front-page news… snowstorms, hail, floods, etc. Weather affects us all… all the time.

Here in Freetown – and probably throughout West Africa, weather is just not an issue. It’s sunny and hot… everyday! And no one seems to mind or notice the occasional deluge of rain and wind. We had a huge storm last night… The wind howled. The lightening lit the skies with firecracker precision. And the rain poured. Yet, in the morning, the sun was up. The humidity was back in full force. The ground was dry… and everyone got on with their day. I was in town today and no one commented on the storm. No one mentioned the heat. People continued to step over the open sewer drainage ditches… this time they were full of run-off… and no one batted an eye.

When I hike up the hill leading from my apartment to the street, I regularly greet the security guards, the construction workers, the kids and street vendors with niceties including, “it looks like it’ll be a nice day,” and they look rather shocked I’d even notice or mention it. For them, of course it’s going to be a nice day… It’s the same every day.

Sierra Leoneons don’t have to dress for the weather… there’s no such thing as a winter wardrobe or summer clothes. They don’t have a selection of hats. They don’t have a winter coat or snow boots… obviously. I remember someone saying, “there’s no such thing as inappropriate weather in Canada. It’s how you dress that’s inappropriate.” Here, linen pants (for the men) and cotton shirts is the norm and most appropriate choice of clothes – every day.

I’ve been told that there are basically two seasons here – dry and wet. And, I’ve heard we’re heading into the “rainy season.” Supposedly the “wet season” and rains are to begin sometime in June. I can’t wait because I love a good, sky-clearing, blood-curdling storm… However, I’ve also been told the temperature doesn’t drop… it stays in the thirties but apparently the skies do open and the rain falls. Maybe then people will start to talk about the weather and notice that one day’s weather is different from the next.

I’ll let you know…

Stephen

Under a “slivery” moon...

2009-05-26T21:48:00.000Z

Yeah, I know… the song actually goes, “…under a silvery moon” but tonight I’m sitting under the barest sliver of a new moon as it rises above the Atlantic. The sky is clear and I wish I knew more about the stars… I’m watching the moon’s progress and the slow emergence of millions of twinkling stars from the verandah of my apartment. Through the grates and above the concrete walls and razor-wire, of course. The tide is sliding back into the small bay, which we overlook… and the fishermen, who wade in the water, have gone back to their huts and rooms after a day of combing the low waters for crab, fish, lobster, shrimp and assorted other goodies to sell in the market.

I’m starting to notice the oddest things about Freetown. Yes, there are plenty of differences but some things are just unexplainable and I find myself becoming more and more curious about just how things work around here. Many of these observations have to do with international aid programs… and well-meaning NGO (non-governmental organizations), I’m sure.

While strolling back from our neighbourhood market, where I bought a delicious “pear” – actually, an avocado by Canadian definition, I saw a lovely woman carrying a finely woven basket on her head. Okay, that’s not unusual… but hanging over the side of the basket was a small, stuffed Homer Simpson doll, complete with yellow skin and blue pants. I couldn’t help but feel weird about the juxtaposition of such an American icon alongside the traditional basketry of West Africa. “Doh”, very strange.

The other day, I noticed my taxi driver wearing a “Relay for Life – Cancer Run” tee-shirt that came from Calgary, AB, and bore the date 2006. Okay, where did he get that? When I asked after his shirt, complimenting him as I expressed interest, he had no idea where Calgary was… and no idea that the “Relay for Life” was a fundraiser for the Canadian Cancer Society.

I can’t avoid a certain “tag” that keeps following me around… I’d asked our landlady, Mala, who’s been so kind and generous, about a set of sheets for my bed, which seems to be an odd size. The next day, she showed up with a folded sheet and tucked inside was a tag from “Value Village”, which, as many of you know, is my second designer of choice in Canada. (the first being Mark’s WorkWearHouse).

While in the market today, I noticed a shop selling electronics… one of many, by the way. And, since I’m in the market for a big-screen TV, NOT, I ventured into the crowded shop bombarded by local hip-hop music. The owner of the shop, Auruda, said they sell speakers… big, loud, honking speakers… reclaimed from recycling ships bound for China. They, the ships, often stop by this giant sea-port on their way down the coast. The shop buys – or steals – these speakers and reclaims and reassembles the parts into these huge boxes… and they’re very popular here. The sound quality is terrible… but they’re loud, and that’s what counts.

While I was with Samuel in his home area of KrooBay, I was given a lesson on making soap from a woman stirring a gelatinous mixture of ingredients in a small room in the middle of the slum. She explained the process and Samuel translated from her native Fuller language. The Fuller tribe is the third largest group in Sierra Leone. The soap is made with palm oil and an assortment of other ingredients culled from trees, plants and buckets of what looked like dirty water. In the end, I bought a small bag of her dried soap and used it this morning to hand-wash my expanding pile of dirty clothes. Miraculously, it foamed up and did a far superior job on my stained shirts and dusty pants. I’d been using small pouches of “Tide” from our expensive “ex-pat” grocery store but I’m now convinced that the homemade soap is the way to go.

Everyone has at least one mobile phone… and many carry more than one. There are three major suppliers of satellite phone service, Zain, which all the jhr folks use, Africell and Comium and the competition for customers is fierce. One of the little tricks these companies use is to limit the calls from one service to another… so, people have taken to carrying phones and service from each of the suppliers. A Zain phone is sometimes difficult to reach if you’re using an Africell service, for example. People might not have power for days on end; they may only eat one meal a day; and they probably work for free… but they carry two or three cell phones. Again, an interesting juxtaposition.

I’ve become a bit of a celebrity among the little children in our neighbourhood… There are about 30, ranging in age from about four to ten or twelve, who are home-schooled or sell things on the street and have extra time on their hands. They got a real “kick” out of my attempts to play soccer/football with them the other day. They were playing/kicking around a small bag of stones in an empty lot up the hill from the apartment. I regularly stop to chat and this time I tried to get in on their game… much to my own embarrassment and chagrin. I didn’t score a goal and they took great pride in teasing me, cajoling me and then trying to convince me to join them again another time. I’ll try to work on my goal-scoring skills in the meantime. They are incredibly affectionate and their smiles are infectious.

Checking in from Freetown… with lots more stories to tell.
Stephen

Surreal Contrasts...

2009-05-25T10:41:00.001Z

The drainage river at KrooBay... and Kent Beach... This is a place of extreme contrasts, for sure.

KrooBay and Kingtom

2009-05-25T10:26:00.000Z

This fishing trawler had been landlocked for several days thanks to a low tide... People in KrooBay work in and around scavenging for anything to sell or use in the neighbourhood. Reclaimed land in this area is mainly from refuge that floats down the "river" during the rainy season. Yes, in Western terms, this is an environmental disaster... but when survival, food, shelter and clean water are a priority worrying about what floats into the ocean is less of an issue.

Kissy Road market

2009-05-25T10:04:00.000Z

The Kissy Road market is a main thoroughfare through the city running past the clock tower, linking the east and west ends of Freetown. Saturday and Sunday are "market days" and obviously the busiest time of the week. Hundreds of thousands of vendors, shoppers and street people flock to the market... and one lone, white, Canadian with a camera.

Sometimes It's Surreal

2009-05-25T08:31:00.000Z

Life in Africa can be consuming… intimate and exhilarating. So much is going on in this area of the world! Nigeria is erupting. Zimbabwe is facing severe food shortages. Sierra Leone is struggling through a media crisis… (the Sylvia Blyden case is exploding) Guinea continues to abuse people’s rights across the spectrum including the judiciary, health, children and women. And it just goes on and on. Yet, life seems to continue to tick along…

On Saturday, I loaded up my “shooting vest” (thanks to Mom and Dad) and spent the day lugging around my “big” camera, memory cards, glasses, notebooks, etc. while sweltering under the 40-degree sunshine. I walked down to a local football field, a dusty stone field where a group of 16 year olds were playing. There are some amazing players here and for many of them, soccer/football is an optimistic ticket out of the area. (Think inner city American basketball courts or home-based ice rinks in Canada) They are incredibly serious about their training, the games, their coach, etc. despite playing in flip-flops, sandals or even bare feet. I don’t know how they do it… but the dedication to the game was remarkable.

Then, I took a taxi into town to meet with a group of photographers I’d met last week. They operate a studio, of sorts, opposite one of the grocery stores I’ve frequented. The studio isn’t more than a room with an old Polaroid passport camera perched on the street in front. I’d stopped in there to have my picture taken for yet another identity card… this one for my IMC membership. Anyway, the group of up to fifty photographers hang around the studio… occasionally shooting a wedding or funeral. None of them have regular work and they shoot with the most basic of equipment… But, each of them have images from the war and I’m meeting with them again today to talk to them about preserving the images and documenting the re-development of Freetown and Sierra Leone. I emphasized the importance of those photographs to the history of Sierra Leone and I’ll try to encourage them to continue shooting… and documenting.

The four or five guys I met up with on Saturday are very keen to develop their connections with newspapers and magazines in the area so one of my workshops will be to bring these shooters together with newspaper reporters and editors… At the moment, the papers don’t use photography at all because they don’t have cameras. So, it kind of makes sense to try to get the cameras and photographers hooked up with the newspaper reporters and stories… and maybe get them all working together.

On Saturday, a very keen photographer named Samuel Karoma, offered to take me around Freetown to do some shooting… and in the middle of the afternoon, I jumped on the back of his little motorcycle and we zipped through traffic to central Freetown, a place called “PZ”, which is the busiest street/area in town. Kissy Road is the only street that connects the poorer area of East Freetown with West Freetown… and is the only artery through the city. It was chaos… and after parking his motorcycle, we strolled through the stalls, traffic, crowds, etc. Samuel kept very close… and repeatedly told me about the pickpockets, thieves, scammers and “nasties” that regularly hang out in the market. And, he kept telling me that as a white man, I was a prime target… So, he acted as security guard, tour operator, photo-guide and translator.

Samuel is a very interesting young man… very smart, eager and thoughtful… and a decent driver. Although, I had to keep telling him to “go slow” as he zipped between cars, curbs and crowds and my knees are rather banged up from getting a bit too close to neighbouring parked vehicles. Samuel ran for political office during the previous election and was very narrowly defeated in his efforts. He’s got all kinds of thoughts on how Freetown and Sierra Leone can rebuild…

After shooting at the market, Samuel took me to his apartment… in a place called Kroobay. The slums of Kroobay and Kingtom are linked by a bridge over a drainage ditch that regularly floods in the rainy season, hence the teetering scaffolds we gingerly traversed. The area, one of the poorest places in Sierra Leone, is home to about 5000 people who live in shacks, huts and small, makeshift buildings built on landfill, sewage and garbage that accumulates during the rainy season. I photographed the children, pigs, chickens and rats that occupy the area… and met some incredibly hard-working, proud people. One group was melting tin cans and moulding them into pots and pans. Another guy was building a two room house out of bricks of garbage for his family of five. I also met the local chief who sat in a darkened room with his three wives… officiating over the area. Despite the poverty, dirt and garbage, these people were proud, welcoming and open to my visit.

After visiting with Samuel’s sister in their room, we zipped back to the studio where we shared a drink… and talked about the importance of politics and people.

I’ll try to post some pictures to give you more of an idea of what it was like…

On Sunday… Jordan and I chartered a taxi to take us to Kent Beach, a deserted area about an hour east of the city. The beach was incredible… and not a soul in sight as we pitched our towels and bottles of water into a small, shaded hut. Then it was into the water… the gloriously warm, wavy Atlantic Ocean. The beach went on and on and I managed to stroll for almost an hour in one direction without seeing a single person.

I couldn’t help contrast this experience with the hustle and bustle of Kissy Road and the Clock tower market in central Freetown. On Saturday, I was pressing my way through hundreds of thousands of people… and on Sunday, I was alone with the birds, sand and waters of the Atlantic. It was surreal.

More later,
Stephen

News of the day...

2009-05-20T14:38:00.001Z

Dear Friends:

Thought I’d shoot along some news of the day from bustling Freetown. Perhaps “shoot” is an inappropriate word… "send" along some news from Freetown… that’s better.

Yesterday, I had a very interesting and insightful experience. The Independent Media Commission (IMC) hosted a press conference for local journalists and media owners. It was billed as “a dialogue between media stakeholders regarding the state of the media industry in Sierra Leone.”

Approximately 50 local reporters from radio, newspaper and television crammed into the small conference room of the IMC in Kissy House on Siaka Stevens Street (Stevens was the former President of Sierra Leone). The room was brutally hot and the conversation was rather heated.

The Independent Media Commission was first established in 2001 immediately following the civil war. (It took them four years to assemble and publish their “media code of practice”) They’ve worked very hard to establish this code of conduct and rules of practise for the media industry… and for the most part the journalists and publishers abide by their guidelines. Otherwise, the IMC has the legislative right to fine or even close a media outlet. So, most folks take it very seriously… and they’re quite closely connected to the government and the Ministry of Information, which has its inherent challenges, as I’m sure you can imagine.

The Chair of the IMC, a very powerful and articulate woman named Mrs. Bernadette Cole, opened the meeting with cautionary words… “My dear colleagues, it is an understatement to say that the peace we currently enjoy is rather fragile. A provocative statement, a message of hate or an insinuation of religious, tribal or ethnic animosity could whip up tension which could lead to complete breakdown of law and order. …it behoves the media sector to refrain from fanning the flames of divisiveness and discord among political parties and other groups in the society. The IMC therefore implores all journalists to be circumspect in the running of their media institutions and do all in their power to maintain our hard earned peace.”

In a local paper, the Standard Times, an article by Edetaen Ojo, also talked about the media industry in post-conflict countries. He says, “…the first signs of an emerging or spreading conflict have frequently manifested in the form of restrictions on media freedom and freedom of expression. These restrictions were either blatant and stringent or they were in the form of more subtle controls on the media, suppression of freedom of expression or the development of conflict-inciting media outlets.” He goes on to make the point that freedom of expression in the media industry is key to maintaining peace.

Obviously, Mr. Ojo’s opinion differs from that of the IMC. And, for the most part, I too see the restrictions, requests and threats from the IMC as a form of media self-censorship. The request from the IMC to not “fan the flames” and the threat of fines or worse, will limit the press in their role as watchdog, educator and protector of human rights. Is there a difference between “fanning the flames of divisiveness and discord” and straight, truthful, accurate reporting? I think so but that’s only my perception. And, when it comes to emerging countries, developing media industries, insecure governments or societies on the brink of peace, that line becomes very fine…

It’s sure a strange and interesting media environment. I should add that there are probably a dozen or so active newspapers on the streets of Freetown. Some are good while others are… less good. Radio stations outnumber newspapers mainly due to the subscription cost and a very low rate of literacy among potential readers. The radio stations share a very fragmented audience with vividly divided loyalties… a great number of niche radio stations, in other words, cater to small audiences. But, the newspapers that are produced here are a very influential form of education and action.

Other stories I’m following include a case where the publisher of Awareness Times, Dr. Sylvia Olayinka Blyden, has fled the area due to an ongoing police investigation. She wrote a story last week about how the government tried to fool a local community, the East Kailahun district, with a scheduled state visit from the First Lady of Sierra Leone, Sia Koroma. Blyden was tipped off that this visit would be from an imposter – an alleged “friend” of President Koroma, and not the real First Lady. (there were a lot of wink-winks and nudges about that term, of course) Police have targeted Blyden’s businesses, arrested her managers and harassed her customers while Blyden lays in hiding. The police have asked Blyden’s lawyers, and issued press releases, asking for her surrender to a local station but she’s yet to appear.

Of course, Blyden’s choice of headline for her story last week was rather scandalous, “President’s Concubine Revealed as Imposter”, which I’m sure raised some eyebrows and apparently achieved its desired impact… Presidential intervention. She should have known… but this is a technique that most of the papers here use regularly… scandalous headlines, yellow journalism and the “enquiring minds” approach to news. Other headlines from yesterday’s papers include… “Koroma Vexed, Ministers Worried,” “Girl 12, Raped,” and “Local Courts are Criminal”.

All the news that’s fit to print… or blog about…

From your roving friend,
Stephen

2009-05-19T18:11:00.000Z

Okay... life is sometimes grand! This is the beach get-away I mentioned previously. It's called, "Beach Two", for reasons that aren't exactly clear. But, the water was clear, the sand white, the skies blue... and the sun hot! What a paradise just a bumpy, 45 minute drive from central Freetown.

Gotta love how quiet and serene life can be at times... sure makes me miss the cold climes of Canada. NOT.

I'm still trying to work out some way to write, research and blog from the beach. Any suggestions?

Settling in...

2009-05-19T09:21:00.000Z

Dear Friends:

I’m sitting on the verandah of our new apartment in Aberdeen, a “quaint” neighbourhood in Freetown. Okay, quaint isn’t exactly the right word to describe it but for Freetown, this is about as twee as can be. We’re around the corner from the MSF offices and down the street from yet another UN initiative. (They’re everywhere here… and are very well regarded) I’m watching the evening sky turn a bright pink… clouds edged with light from the setting sun. It’s quite miraculous, actually. The verandah looks out over a small, walled enclosure we’re calling our courtyard, which in Africa has an entirely different meaning, as I’m sure you can imagine. Razor-wire and shards of glass top the eight foot tall wall… which is the norm around here.

It’s still brutally hot and humid and this “pasty white man” as I’m affectionately known, has melted, burned and sweated his way through almost two weeks of tropical Sierra Leone temperatures. Whew… But, the joke is that after several more weeks, I’ll resemble a native Sierra Leoneon. Okay, not quite.

I’m in my new, semi-permanent dwelling now after a week at a guest house near the national stadium in Freetown proper. It’s a bit of relief to be out of ear-shot of the soccer matches, Bob Marley celebrations (he died on May 11 and the concerts were deafening), political rallies and other assorted parties held at the stadium and on the practice fields.

Soldiers used to march/drill and clap on the fields very early in the morning, usually the most humid time of day here… It’s a wonder how any of them made it through the drills. I watched from the guest house balcony on several occasions and couldn’t believe the military activities going on there. Yes, there’s still a very real threat of uprising although the present government is actively working on keeping the peace while the leaders of the RUF (revolutionary united front, I think) sit in cells awaiting trials for all kinds of atrocities. Interestingly, May has been declared RUF month and there are celebrations and skirmishes arising across the country. Politics is rampant here… and everyone seems to be involved, educated and intrigued by what goes on in government offices. Very interesting indeed.

Today was my first official day “in the office”, which JHR operates on Pademba Road, a major thoroughfare through the city. It’s always busy… taxis, poda-podas (mini-vans usually loaded to the gills with passengers) and motorcycle taxis (too dangerous given the crazy road conditions and overly confident drivers). The honks and toots are continuous and thousands of people stroll past the office in a day. Whew… it makes this porch an oasis of peace amidst the bustle of the big city.

I’ll be spending the next couple of weeks in meetings with key media industry folks trying to put together a needs assessment. Yes, the development community jargon is rampant… and I’m trying to come to terms with the vagueness and development-speak I’ve been bombarded with. Strategic community development arising from increased dialogue amongst key industry programs… Okay… what it really means is that I’ll be meeting with journalists, editors, media owners and the Ministry of Information to ascertain what it is they think might be helpful from a media development organization like Journalists for Human Rights.

Following this needs assessment, I’ll be putting together an action plan that involves community forums (to increase dialogue among stakeholders) and student workshops (I’ll be working with the Mass Communications dept. at the university) I’ll also be teaching a journalism course at the university and another local college, which will be very interesting. They’re very eager to develop the local media and increasing readership, education, etc. while at the same time working towards developing more community awareness around human rights issues. Yes, I’ll need to bone up on the UN declaration of human rights, including the rights of the child and of women. The straight journalism stuff will be pretty basic, in western media terms, and I’m looking forward to teaching writing skills, interview techniques, photojournalism and story structure.

Yesterday was a huge reprieve from the hustle and bustle of Freetown… A Swiss couple I met at the guest house took three of us to the beach. Beach Two, to be exact, about an hour outside of Freetown proper. After a very rough ride through several villages, we arrived at the most pristine beach I’ve ever seen. The sand was pure white… and the waters of the Atlantic Ocean was clean and warm… excellent for swimming and bobbing through. The waves were lovely… high and powerful, which made for some fantastic body surfing and wave diving.

We set up a small beach umbrella and shared a lunch of fresh crab, smoked barracuda and pita bread… how civilized, don’t you think? And yes, this white man turned a lovely shade of lobster red about half way through the day… which made for a rather disturbed sleep, as you can imagine. But, it was so lovely to spend the day away… on an almost deserted beach. I have to get back there… and am trying to figure out how to report/teach journalism and human rights awareness from the beach. You wouldn’t believe how beautiful it was.

And then today… after several hours in the office, I shopped through the local market looking for sheets, vegetables, a handbag, a chopping block, etc. It’s absolutely chaotic on the market streets… and one has to be incredibly aware of what’s around. Taxis roar by, honking and swerving through the traffic. Street vendors outnumber the shops by about one hundred to one and they’re very eager to sell you a bar of soap, a tube of toothpaste or a pair of jeans that still have the Value Village tag hanging from the pocket. Countless vendors ply their trade along the streets… and bargaining is the name of the game.

Of course, I must pay the “white man tax” on most of these things, which is just fine… but I have to remember to offer half what the item costs… we meet somewhere between the two extremes and I feel good about the “deal” I’m getting and they feel like they’re taxing the white man. Interestingly, my colleagues here in Freetown are of brown skin – an Indian woman and a mixed race young man from Manchester, UK. (Yes, I’ve had to become a Man U soccer fan in order to have something to talk to taxi drivers about). They, the two JHR trainers, are burdened by my “white presence” and we share lots of laughs about the differences in the way we’re all treated by the Sierra Leoneons. Jordan, the guy from the UK, has done experiments… He walks ahead of me and watches how people react to me strolling down the street… They and he can see me coming from blocks away. It’s the white-glow… apparently.

We still don’t have power for most of the evening… the national electric grid is hit and miss at best. So, when the power is on, we all madly dash to wall receptacles to charge our phones, computers, lamps and torches. We do, however, have running water… bracing, cold water but it’s a welcome relief to sunburn and humidity. I’m typing this letter by candlelight, which is romantic, I know. And, I ate my first home-cooked meal tonight… spaghetti, because I was missing Canadian comfort food. We have to boil all of our drinking water because there’s no such thing as treated municipal water… and bottled water is relatively expensive. So, there’s barely a lull in activity around here… whether I’m hand-washing my clothes or trying to replace burning candles. It’s sooo good though… fitting into life here in Africa. It makes me wonder about all the so-called necessities of life in Canada. Perhaps living a simpler life… with its hardships, energy, challenges and rewards is a better way to deal with the environment, the developing world, economic challenges and political woes.

I’m thrilled to be here… living up to the challenges and enjoying the rewards of life in Africa. I’m sure there’s more… but for now, I’ll sign off.

With great excitement and joy…
I remain yours,
Stephen